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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Topanga, CA
Posts: 109
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Pedal Box
I wanted to redo this since it looked like crap, and I was chasing some strange pedal feel here and there so this felt like a good place to start. ![]() I had replace one or two bushings previously(you can see the brighter bronze) but that was shadowed by the other stuff Like most - it was pretty rusty and full of dirt n crud, and bushings shot I got a new bushing kit from pelican and a new clutch pedal shaft to press in a fresh bronze bushing as well there too - it did have a little bit of warp; but not so bad as I was expecting. Hard to tell, but the amount of padding on the left of the hole is much less than the right. ![]() ![]() The worst of the bunch.. and the hands down worst was the roll pin in the clutch pedal - omg dont waste your time on this, and go to a machine shop (unless you have a drill press) - I went thru several bits trying to drill this out, tried tapping it out; the works. With the time i have to do stuff, this took a lil over a month of tinkerin before i gave up and brought it in, and even then the dude went thru 3 bits on the drill press. ![]() ![]() my attempts were worthless - just marring the metal if anything I plan on trying a different method to lock this in place - because.. never again. I will try out a snug clevis pin. I sandblasted this down, baked, degreased and got to cerakoting and rebuilding the unit once I got it all back from the machine shop. ![]() ![]() it came out great and pretty happy with the results - i am super tempted to have the springs redone in yellow ![]() ![]() ![]() getting the hang of cerakote - learning what i can do better each time etc. |
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Looks good. I didnt have much issue driving the pin out. Something ive noticed is that roll pins also seem to have a taper. It might be just me or it develops after being in the hole for a long time. Regardless of the cause, if you try to bang the fat end through, it wont work.
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Hoschton, GA
Posts: 360
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Following along, love to see a good transformation, the shifter housing looks great, I wish I had done that when I recently rebuilt my shifter assembly.
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1979 911 SC Gran Prix White. IG @hulley31 |
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Topanga, CA
Posts: 109
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thanks everyone!
from what ive read here: when i was going thru my pedal box - it looks like some people had a easy trip with it! youre very lucky @AlKidd! |
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Quote:
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Topanga, CA
Posts: 109
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Insulation Scrapin'
This was a TON of work; lots of labor involved with this. This project is totally doable at home, but its going to take a lot of effort on your part if you plan on doing it yourself (pending the shape of everything im sure) The following is a few months of work if you do decide to do this - do yourself a favor and invest in a oscillating multi-tool. This saved me lots of scraping time! what a fantastic tool this was for this job The car itself had what looked like some cheapo foam insulation along with the factory tar/butyl ![]() ![]() ![]() pretty gross - i did find 50 cents tho ![]() This foam was a nigthmare I used citrus strip remover to get a lot of the fuzz and glue off - i found that when using the citrus strip: you really need to go on heavy, light coats just dry up and becomes real hard to remove. ![]() ![]() I tried the dry ice method to remove all the previous butyl/tar; this worked pretty good - the ice was expensive, i forget exactly the cost, but i should/woulda got more.. but didnt due to the price. I thought I had enough, but I should have gotten wayyy more to just fill it up real good. ![]() ![]() there was a lot of satisfying ASMR cracks n pops during this process; ill have to upload a video ![]() The aftermath was pretty messy; lots of glue/tar and whatnot left over. I tried a variety of different products to help remove a lot of this stuff - mineral spirit (wasnt easy to get this since its not allowed in CA anymore) and WD-40 worked pretty well More to this post coming |
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Topanga, CA
Posts: 109
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thanks @sportsbeetle - Its been real tricky in general finding all the bolts; i am hoping that when i am done with it, it helps a lot of folks out!
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I found dry ice + a pneumatic hammer with chisel head was the best way to tackle the insulation. Also did it in small focussed sections over a number of days switching between other projects. It's a PITA either way.
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Join Date: Dec 2021
Posts: 18
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To make your dry ice go further place it in a bags and then put them over the spots you next want to chip off. that way you can use it for longer and its far easier to manage. ive done a whole car with about a $20 worth of dry ice
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Topanga, CA
Posts: 109
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Insulation Scrapin' PT 2
![]() ![]() for the most part everything came off - I was mainly left with lil left over pieces, and lots of glue ![]() using WD-40 and mineral spirits to clean and melt down the glues ![]() osculating tool is top tier ![]() When eveything was cleaned up for the most part - it gave me a good opportunity to asses any rust, and see what needed to be done outside of the obvious... like wtf is this hole all about.. theres one on the other side but its a clean hole... not sure how this one ended up so wild ![]() the driver side rear seat was pretty damn rusty and was feeling real thin to the touch with the ole' knock n touch test - lots of rust vacuumed up when i got cleaning as well. I unfortunately discovered a hole through the seat and could see the ground.Was really hoping i was gonna be able to just seal this all up with POR-15 ![]() the hole is the black spot in the bottom center, kinda damp'ish in tone to the rest of the metal. a few weeks went by due to weather, and I was able to get a new seat pan in for restoration design - quality was fantastic + theres lots of scrap from cutting this down for other things down the line. ![]() ![]() easy does it... The auto-heat cable popped out of its restraint, and i cut it clean in half - which was kind of a ok thing since i plan on removing the auto-heat unit and keeping the backdate style. The autoheat unit i had was so temperamental and it would just kick on randomly. ![]() was super surprised how well these fit - great job restoration design more parts of this story coming soon Last edited by dgtlhybrd; 04-09-2022 at 07:06 PM.. Reason: clarity |
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Topanga, CA
Posts: 109
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this is a great idea, this would have saved me lots of shoveling time
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Topanga, CA
Posts: 109
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Insulation Scrapin' PT 3
With the new pan in hand, my buddy came over and helped me get this welded nicely in ![]() We also were able to utilize some left over metal from the seat pan to close these holes up ![]() ![]() After cleaning up a bit, i wanted to get this stuff sealed up - i noticed while cleaning up the glue and such from the padding that it looks like porsche was using beige sealer on my car - so i wanted to keep that goin.. despite not seeing it ever. ![]() ![]() I used Eastwood Internal Frame Coating on the bottom side of the seat, since I couldnt reach in too well with the sealer - this worked out nicely since it applies with this lil hose attachment. This Coating came in handy for a few other things as well. ![]() while cleaning up some rust and lookin around, i caught some more rust - this looks pretty brutal but looks isolated; i will have to deal with this after i wrap up the interior project here - very similar on the other side of the car ![]() After sealing everything up - it was time to start sanding lil spots I might have missed, but also just cleaning up in prep for POR15. Things are feelin/lookin good aside from that new rust ![]() Last edited by dgtlhybrd; 04-11-2022 at 02:31 PM.. Reason: formatting |
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Location: Topanga, CA
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Insulation Prep
Now that everything is sealed up, I was able to treat the metal using the POR15 suite of products - degreaser/metal prep/por15 Since por15 requires 2 coats - i grabbed grey and black to make it easy to spot where i missed; starting with grey. I dont know if I would recommend POR15 in the end, id maybe use another product: I think theres just too many steps to make sure the product is applied correctly compared to a lot of newer products out there. I went with POR15 since ive heard a lot of good lore about it in the past. ![]() ![]() ![]() degreaser cleaned it up nicely They want you to pretty much spray their products out with water, but i didnt want to put the hose inside the car at this stage; so i used my pump spray bottle to clean this out - this is where i went wrong im sure, as i couldnt probably clean everything to the best of my ability here. Quite the shame since I put so much effort into prepping for this moment. ![]() all clean - and time for metal prep Once everything was good to go - i threw on a coat of grey; it was at this point i started seeing where little bits of oil or degreaser may have still remained from the cleanings (probably a lot of that wd40 and such i used to remove the butyl/tar) A pressure washer probably would have been great here ![]() ![]() It said the second coat needs to be applied while tacky - I had to wait overnight to get to just a tacky phase, took longer than I expected! ![]() ![]() things came out not bad considering! nice seeing one color vs the mix match of random colors ![]() ![]() I woulda/shoulda have done a mobile sandblasting service to clear out the interior to be a guaranteed clean. Would have been a opp to try out @rennch's blasting service. Would have saved weeks of time cleaning and prepping and yielded a more even surface i am sure. In the end like I mentioned, I would probably not use POR15 again for this type of project due to the prep being so finnicky; there is quite a number of newer products that I would probably give a shot now that I have done this. Last edited by dgtlhybrd; 04-12-2022 at 05:05 PM.. Reason: clarity |
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Location: Topanga, CA
Posts: 109
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Foil Town USA
With everything all coated up and ready to roll, I want to get my insulation in. I went with membrane since its a dual purpose insulation for sound and heat - and around 6mm (they now make a 8mm btw) ![]() insulation isnt too cheap, so i wanted to make sure i got proper fitment along with using as much as i could without ordering too much. It looked like 2 boxes would be enough since thats what they suggest. I got to work with foil (made the mistake of not ordering heavy duty - so i had to redo this a few times before giving up and just buying heavy duty) Since the foil contorts you can get a better idea of the actual form in the end vs eyeballin or just cutting as you go. This is actually pretty similar to making video game stuff/3d modeling work. ![]() ![]() if i did this again, i would be much more vigilant about tac'n down foil here and there to make sure it doesnt move, in the end i found a bit of inaccuracy, prob from foil slightly shifting ![]() the fronts were actually trickier than i expected due to just having to mangle my body a lil weird to get it right. - got the new door pieces in (really nice door feel now) ![]() this took a few tries to get right - i wanted to be sure to measure three times, cut once. ![]() layout all set, looks like i will use exactly 2 boxes, with 1 sheet left over for the roof portion of the project. ( i am holding on to scraps till the end) ![]() rear section complete. I got some heavy duty fiskar scissors for this, and they cut these up real nice - along with fresh razors for random detail bits. ![]() floors squared up (i actually ended up remaking the side pieces to these after this photo. they didnt feel clean enough) ![]() remaking these side pieces ![]() floors dropped in just for giggles - and they fit nicely. phew |
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Insulation Time
With most if not all pieces cut, i went to work gettin these put down and locked in ![]() test fit ![]() ![]() everything was plopping in pretty well, way easier than making the templates there was a few lil gaps here and there from where the foil might have moved or i cut a lil too liberally with the scissors; im wondering now if using blue painters tape would have been better for layering and making templates. ![]() ![]() the membrane product was real nice and easy to work with, however their matching tape doesnt stick as well as you'd hope and i would expect i have maybe used 4 rolls vs their advertised "you prob just need 2 per car" ![]() ![]() still more taping to do but its pretty cozy in here now. My question to top this off, is if i apply some of the membrane to the roof behind the sunroof, will the 6mm of insulation here show through the headliner? ie. will we see a square outline thru the fabric? ![]() red is where i was originally planning to place more membrane, or do i do it in the blue square area? Last edited by dgtlhybrd; 04-16-2022 at 02:21 PM.. Reason: clarity |
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Topanga, CA
Posts: 109
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looking back on it, prob would have saved a ton of cash using wendy's chicken sandwich wrappers
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Who makes that insulation?
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Topanga, CA
Posts: 109
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Topanga, CA
Posts: 109
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I am looking into headliners atm - I am trying to find something close to what the car originally had - it looks like the OG headliner in my car had a larger "grain" that was more uniform across the board - where as I am seeing a lot of "dot" textures. I just got my samples from GAHH; they're feeling great in my hand, they seem real durable.. but the texture seems off.
OG Headliner ![]() ![]() GAHH samples Anyone already go down this path and find something that looks/feels good? I am tempted to make a new post about this in particular since it looks like it could be useful for those looking for stuff that matches. |
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Topanga, CA
Posts: 109
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not to mention this small detail
OG on left ![]() |
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