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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Richmond
Posts: 77
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New hard lines don't seem to fit--why?
This is about the third project on my '81 SC and it's been a little challenging. Because of a leak, I ordered new rear oil lines and new hard oil lines. I'm happy to report that I replaced my rear oil lines without a hitch.
![]() The hard lines, however, haven't been so easy. After realizing the ones I bought (930-207-045-03-OEM) didn't reach the external oil thermostat (they had squared thermostat ends and were a few inches too short), I bought oil lines with curved thermostat ends (930-107-017-01-OEM). So while I'm waiting for my new thermostat, I figured I'd install the hard lines today and attach them to the front oil lines. Everything looks ready for the thermostat... ![]() Lo and behold, the hard lines appear too long to attach to the front oil lines. ![]() ![]() Am I wrong in thinking something's not quite right? There is some flex to the hard oil lines, but I don't want to force them to mate with the hoses and bend the lines in the process. Are the front oil lines (hoses) too long? Is that even possible? I'd appreciate any insights you can provide to get me back in this car. The new thermostat arrives this Thursday and I was hoping to drive it this upcoming weekend. That's not looking feasible to me. Thanks in advance for your help. Last edited by 911SCRVA; 06-21-2022 at 04:24 PM.. |
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Titanium User
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: NY
Posts: 3,258
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Loosen up the cooler so you have some play up there. Leave everything loose and attach the thermostat when it comes in. After its all assembled start tightening down your fittings and cooler. These cars are old and hand built, nothing is going to fit perfectly out of the box.
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 58
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Cooler Lines
I’d also get new cooler hoses up front, they get hard and leaky over time too
Just did this job and as Daniel said get everything in loose first and the parts will align themselves at the end. |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Richmond
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I'll give it a shot. Thank you.
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Richmond
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I've looked and can't find front oil lines on Pelican. I'll call them tomorrow. Thanks.
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: NY
Posts: 3,258
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Banned
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 10,751
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Replacing my trombone with the radiator was one of the hardest jobs I ever did on my SC. Much like yours I didn't have enough room between the hard lines and the soft lines from the cooler. There simply wasn't room in the wheel well for the way the hard lines were bent so I had to add more curvature to them to take up more space at the top of the wheel well to take out some of that extra length.
I'm mad just remembering it. |
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Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Richmond
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Thanks for the response, David. How did you add curvature? I'm afraid to ask.
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Banned
Join Date: Mar 2014
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If I were to do it again I might try to borrow a tubing bender from someone. Trying to do that without proper tooling only made it harder. |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Richmond
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Hahaha. Sounds like we're having similar experiences. At least the swearing part. Perhaps the bending part soon too.
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Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 171
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my experience is similar to others on this thread: getting the flexible lines in the front fender to fit takes a lot of work! what worked for me was to loosely install the cooler, install the cooler end of each flexible line, heat each flexible line with a heat gun to make it more flexible, then line up and thread the fitting onto the hard line. the flexible lines end up with pretty significant bends in them...
I didn't touch/bend the hard lines though. |
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Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Richmond
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Have you had any issues with the soft lines since applying heat? Did it have any apparent effect on the braiding? Also, what temp setting did you use and how close to the lines did you get? I don't have any experience with a heat gun.
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Registered
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Get some new lines as your old lines have formed hard and are not very pliable any longer.
Be sure to get a pair of cloth braided Cohline as they are much more flexible than the all rubber lines ![]()
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1983 911SC 1977 930 Turbo (again) 2018 GTS 2023 Audi A4 '74 914 '76 911S '72 911T '73 1/2 911T '77 930 Turbo (all gone) Last edited by stevie 77 930; 06-22-2022 at 02:32 PM.. |
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i too used the cohlines and attached to the cooler first, mounted the cooler loosely and then snug everything up...no problems getting a good fit
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hudson, Ohio
Posts: 1,436
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Oh man this thread brings up some memories. Glad I’m not the only one to struggle with the front lines. Actually the entire process of line replacement was a royal pain in the arse! Make sure the new flexible lines are the correct size. One is shorter. Ask me how I know.
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Northeast Ohio 1987 Porsche 911 Targa 1966 VW Beetle, 6V Last edited by rokemester; 06-22-2022 at 07:11 PM.. |
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The 9 Store
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Wilmington, DE
Posts: 5,360
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You could always have the correct size soft lines made to fit.
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All used parts sold as is. |
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 124
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I have never done this job so I have no advice to offer. Your pics don’t show a thermostat. Without the thermostat in place and connected, are you sure the hard lines are correctly located?
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1985 Carrera 3.2 • Prussian Blue Metallic |
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Eventually got there. Note shorter line.
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Northeast Ohio 1987 Porsche 911 Targa 1966 VW Beetle, 6V |
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Location: Seattle
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I’m not sure I’d use Teflon pipe dope on the threads. They’re not tapered plumbing threads. So, not needed. Nor is Teflon tape. Probably not a issue but, some remnants will make it through the oil system/motor
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81 Pacific Blue 930 Euro coupe slicktop on a strict diet, Rarlyl8 headers, Blowzilla turbo, Tial waste gate, Full bay I/C, Home made center out exhaust, Leask WUR, MSD 6AL, PLX wideband Wevo shifter, LSD. Next up, Cams, Heads and port work |
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an anti-seize (copper) might be a better choice in the long run? but heck..way to go getting it done!
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