71 E won’t start

[mhurwitz]

Hi Pelicans,
I got my rebuilt engine in and it won’t start. Smells like it’s getting plenty of fuel. Bought 2 new batteries yesterday. I checked the spark at the coil wire and I see a spark. Not sure how strong the spark should be. I can barely see a little spark. I cleaned both battery terminals and cleaned the wires and replaced connectors that go on the driver side terminal. It might be my imagination, but it seems like the lights under the hood are a little dim. I checked all connections and grounds in the engine compartment. Not sure where to go from here?

[Dpmulvan]

Try timing

[mhurwitz]

Originally Posted by Dpmulvan

Try timing

Not sure how to check timing without it running

[nomore]

Look up static timing a distributor. Basically you are lining up flywheel timing marks and distributor rotor marks by hand. You have to static time your distributor to get an initial time on your rebuild.Good luck. John

[mhurwitz]

Originally Posted by nomore

Look up static timing a distributor. Basically you are lining up flywheel timing marks and distributor rotor marks by hand. You have to static time your distributor to get an initial time on your rebuild.Good luck. John

Thank you John,
I will give that a try
Mark

[mhurwitz]

How strong is the spark from the coil wire? I can barely see mine

[otto_kretschmer]

Originally Posted by mhurwitz

How strong is the spark from the coil wire? I can barely see mine

If you turn the lights off in your garage (assuming you have it in a garage) the spark should be bright blue and you should hear a distinct pop.

Did you use new plugs?

[kltarga72]

Was the rebuilt engine tested (ran) at the repair shop? If it ran at the shop than you can eliminate timing, coil. I would look at external problems such as weak battery voltage, CDI, gas.
Check your ground wires, need clean connections and tight.

[Dave Kost]

Check that the points aren't closed.

[Neven911]

90% sure is will be timing or plug wires out of sequence - setting the timing plus or minus 5 deg the engine should start but it will never even fire if the plug wires are incorrect

[mhurwitz]

Thank you all for the input
I did the static timing
Points are open to .004
Plug wire have been checked…the order going clockwise 1 6 2 4 3 5. #1 is at the notch on the distributor.
The rotor spins clockwise
I see this picture and it has the order counter clockwise?
Also bought 2 new batteries.
Car turned over well at first….not it barely turns….did I ruin the starter?
I did put oil in car before I did anything

Happy 4th to all!,

[manbridge 74]

Points are to be set at 0.014 if working in inches.

[mhurwitz]

Originally Posted by manbridge 74

Points are to be set at 0.014 if working in inches.

I was in mm

[ed mayo]

Check battery voltage at battery terminals, should be 12.4 V. Remove all spark plugs, are they wet? Clean with carb cleaner and compressed air. Reinstall. Disconnect cold start solenoid wire, remove aircleaner, Open throttle plates and put about a teaspoon of gas in each throat. Now crank engine, it should try and start, if it does but will not yet keep running turn it off and repeat priming process. As it tries to start it will eventually fill all the injector lines and keep running. Your lines are dry right now.

[mhurwitz]

Originally Posted by ed mayo

Check battery voltage at battery terminals, should be 12.4 V. Remove all spark plugs, are they wet? Clean with carb cleaner and compressed air. Reinstall. Disconnect cold start solenoid wire, remove aircleaner, Open throttle plates and put about a teaspoon of gas in each throat. Now crank engine, it should try and start, if it does but will not yet keep running turn it off and repeat priming process. As it tries to start it will eventually fill all the injector lines and keep running. Your lines are dry right now.

Hi Ed,
Thank you for the detailed response.
I can give it a shot.
Unfortunately right now the motor will barely turn over.
I bought 2 new batteries and the have 12.4 V each.
Do you think the starter has gone bad. It will turn the flywheel, but barely. Not strong enough to start the motor.

[kltarga72]

Originally Posted by mhurwitz

Hi Ed,
Thank you for the detailed response.
I can give it a shot.
Unfortunately right now the motor will barely turn over.
I bought 2 new batteries and the have 12.4 V each.
Do you think the starter has gone bad. It will turn the flywheel, but barely. Not strong enough to start the motor.

If your new battery's are fully charged and starter is turning engine over slowly than you need to check battery cable to starter. The connection needs to be clean and tight. You can also have a corroded or dirty starter case where the starter fastens to the engine block. You need to have current flow from positive battery post through the starter, engine case, body frame and back to the negative battery post. That's why I mentioned checking the ground straps in earlier post. If grounds are good than your starter/solenoid may be the culprit.
Hope this helps
ps you never mentioned if engine was tested at the repair shop

[ed mayo]

Excellent point, since the engine trans have just been put back check that transmission ground strap. Assuming the starter cranked the engine before the overhaul there's no reason it shouldn't now. The fly in the ointment is if the rebuilt engine is 'tight' Only the builder will know that.

[356911930]

I think your points should be set to approx 0.355mm… .004mm is very small.

Rahl

[mhurwitz]

Originally Posted by kltarga72

If your new battery's are fully charged and starter is turning engine over slowly than you need to check battery cable to starter. The connection needs to be clean and tight. You can also have a corroded or dirty starter case where the starter fastens to the engine block. You need to have current flow from positive battery post through the starter, engine case, body frame and back to the negative battery post. That's why I mentioned checking the ground straps in earlier post. If grounds are good than your starter/solenoid may be the culprit.
Hope this helps
ps you never mentioned if engine was tested at the repair shop

Thanks for all the suggestions. I checked all the grounds…trans to body, battery, starter to block.
The motor was never tested out of the car.
I towed it back to the mechanic that built the motor. As soon as I know what it is I’ll post it……unless I made a total bonehead move…then I’ll smoke screen. 🤣

[kltarga72]

Originally Posted by mhurwitz

Thanks for all the suggestions. I checked all the grounds…trans to body, battery, starter to block.
The motor was never tested out of the car.
I towed it back to the mechanic that built the motor. As soon as I know what it is I’ll post it……unless I made a total bonehead move…then I’ll smoke screen. 🤣

We like to here about bonehead moves. it makes the rest of us feel better.