1976 Rear Sway Bar Link to Ball Pin Bushing Install Help

[GARPolitics]

Hi everyone, long time lurker, first time poster. I’m finishing up my summer suspension rebuild and have run into trouble trying to insert the bushing into the drop link for the rear sway bar. I have tried many different ways but haven’t been able to fit them in. Does anyone have any tips for getting these things inserted into the drop link?

[manbridge 74]

Heat it up with a hair dryer then use a little soap along with a smooth press from a vice was how I did the last ones.

[Mahler9th]

That works well!

Or warm water.

But a good vice and lube by themselves work as well.

[bkreigsr]

Ten inch "C" clamp will also do it.
........Wait till you try to get the ball into it......

[GARPolitics]

Originally Posted by bkreigsr

Ten inch "C" clamp will also do it.
........Wait till you try to get the ball into it......

Uh oh, any tips for that before I try getting these on on the links with the tips above?

[bkreigsr]

I have had good luck with a broom handle cut down to 16 or so inches.
With the car on the ground, and the ball/cup all greased-up, thread the broom handle past the tire and suspension parts to situate the wood on the closed end of the cup in the link.

Couple of good wacks with a 3 pound hammer usually does the trick.

I see you are using new links - that helps a great deal as the 'used' links become twisted with age. The twisted link might go on okay, but it will pop off frequently with 'spirited' use. (as you probably know, these links are handed - right and left should different part numbers)

Finally, if you have any pre-load, the ends will not line up after one side has been hammered home.
Loosen the mounting straps a couple of turns to let the bar dangle a bit;
.... or, raise either side up an inch or so to correct this.

[GARPolitics]

Originally Posted by bkreigsr

I have had good luck with a broom handle cut down to 16 or so inches.
With the car on the ground, and the ball/cup all greased-up, thread the broom handle past the tire and suspension parts to situate the wood on the closed end of the cup in the link.

Couple of good wacks with a 3 pound hammer usually does the trick.

I see you are using new links - that helps a great deal as the 'used' links become twisted with age. The twisted link might go on okay, but it will pop off frequently with 'spirited' use. (as you probably know, these links are handed - right and left should different part numbers)

Finally, if you have any pre-load, the ends will not line up after one side has been hammered home.
Loosen the mounting straps a couple of turns to let the bar dangle a bit;
.... or, raise either side up an inch or so to correct this.

Thank you for the tip! The drop link on one side was very twisted and was missing the bushing. The previous owner had just hooked it around the pin and called it good. I was hoping this would be relatively easy as this is my second to final step before finishing my suspension rebuild, but it turned out to be almost as difficult as the gland nut from the og. strut housing.

[bkreigsr]

On a scale of 1-10, this is probably about a '4'.

Gland - nut about a '6', depending on the age of the car.
{FWIW, I use a large Stilson/pipe wrench. (14")}

But - hey - DIY is part of the fun of owning these cars.

[47silver]

I just installed my sway bar with new bushings. I used a small pipe clamp about 14” long.
Put one side in un-attached. Put The pipe under the brake line. Attach the sliding end and slowly tighte the clamp. Takes about 3 minites.

[GARPolitics]

Thank you all for the suggestions. I got them in over the weekend by heating them up and then pushing them in with my thumbs. Getting them installed on the pin was rather easy. I used an 8-inch c-clamp between the bushing and trailing arm, tightened and they’re in! Thank you all again for your help!