3.2 Motorpull Checklist/while I'm in there.
 

Hey friends,

Doing a motor pull for service on my 3.2 (first one) and have the following list of todo's.

- Trans fluid flush (reccos on fluid?)
- Starter
- Slave Cyl
- Clutch Package (LW Pressure plate/clutch/flywheel resurface)
- Rear Main Seal
- Reseal of the upper section of case (oil related bits in the back)
- New oil pressure switch/seal
- Rennline valve covers/gaskets upgrade/hardware
- valve adjustment
- Trans mounts
- Motor Mounts
- Exhaust swap
- Air Filter upgrade
- New Oil "S" pipe
- New Oil Sender Unit
- Maybe a new oil cross line depending on how it comes apart during the pull
- Fresh plugs (plug wires are only 6 mons old)
- Fresh oil
- Maybe cap and rotor?

Is there additional preventative work I can do while it's out that's just easier while the engine is on the ground/stand? Engine has really good leak-down numbers and runs like a champ so not cracking the case or anything that intense. Just needs some oil - leaks resolved and a new clutch. So I figured I'd do the above while I was in there.

Want to make sure I don't miss any good opportunities - high ROI preventative fixes.
thanks much!

New fuel lines if they are original, and new barrier a/c lines if you use the a/c or ever plan on upgrading it.

Do you know which fuel lines in particular?
Or are you suggesting a full kit like this:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/MASTUN.htm?pn=MAS-TUN
or this:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/MASK3A.htm?pn=MAS-K3A


I've removed AC and will complete the removal during the pull (keeping all the parts, just never use AC)
thanks for the advice!

Check engine cross member bar that both sides are not curled away or bent, didn't notice mine was twisted and ~ 5/8" out on one side, almost stripped a transmission mount trying to align it all. Figured it out, bought a new one and 5 min to align all 4 mounts vs hours of forcing. One of these things you might not notice.
New bar is 150$.

On engine oil thermostat
Throttle bell crank bushings

Agree 100% with the fuel lines, talk to Tony here (boyt911sc).. IIRC he made me a set with SS flex covering for my race car, they were perfect.. chances are your tunnel line is OK but I replaced mine with one of the last OEM kits available. Tony can fix you up there also!

Look at the engine sound pad and insulation on the firewall. With the engine out is the time to replace it if it is a bit old and tired.

Also clean the engine bay while the engine is out.

And you for sure need the photo of yourself with your head sticking out of the engine compartment!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1664294949.jpg

I 100% will be getting a photo like this. One of my favorites. Good suggestion on the Sound pad, thank you.

I've been eyeing one of those sweet lightweight ones in the classifieds - might just need to do this. thanks!

I've got the thermo - but not the bell crank bushings - ordering now!
thanks.

I'll reach out to him - thank you!

Rear shocks (much easier access w/ engine out)
Oil lines for chain tensioners (mine were leaking)
Shifter bushings (they’re cheap since you’re placing an order anyways)
Oil filter and crush washers
Brake lines if they haven’t been replaced yet
Check condition of the tins surrounding motor (paint or replace if rusty)
Gasket that seals/surrounds the engine between the body
Shift coupling boot out of tunnel if cracked
CV boots
High temp spray adhesive for sound mat
-perfect opportunity to clean motor/engine bay

* Just had my engine out so I did most of the things (clutch, CV boots, remove/replace AC hoses, evap, drier, compressor, front condenser, motor fuel lines, added Pad Keeper in addition to new sound mat, ‘triangle of death’ parts, repaired cracked breather hoses that are NLA, etc.) mentioned in previous posts.
** changed out my speed/reference sensors and head temp sensor (easy access when motor is out but expensive)
*** Cheap items that you’ll probably need since you’re placing order (decklid strut clips that break, air/oil filters/ etc.). Make sure that you make a list and sleep on it. Save on shipping costs for the $5 parts that you remembered after the fact.

I dont recall seeing Tony posting up fuel lines for sale, though he is fairly expert at the CIS. Len - BoxsterGT - and Paul - Mason_paul - on the other hand do frequently post up their offerings.

The other thing I would put on your list are the trailing arm pickup point bushings at the torsion tube since the transmission will be out of the way, making access much easier.

Mistaken identity........
 

Gary,

The person who did your fuel line was not me. I fabricated and built CIS fuel lines but I don’t sell them. I recommend Len Cummings for fuel lines. Thanks for your recommendation but give the right person his due appreciation. Do you remember his name? Sorry, I don’t deserve to get any credit for the fuel line.

Tony

Thanks, I'll reach out to the folks above and see what I can learn.

Likely doing this same thing on my 3.2 this Winter, please post any tips/tricks/hiccups if you like to post progress.

I suggest you change the trailing arm bushings while engine is out. It is extremely difficult to unbolt the trailing arms from the body. There is so much interference with engine and tranny in place. I would also consider replacing rear wheel bearings.

How are the fuel line connections up front to the fuel pump and gas tank? If leaking, the fuel lines in the tunnel may need to be replaced. Much easier when engine out.

Send the injectors out to be serviced.

Replace the CHT (updated two wire OEM) and crank reference sensors (Bosch BMW/944 part# is half price)

I had a full fuel line kit installed, which I got from Griffiths, who also supplied the a/c lines and my a/c upgrade kit.

Sorry for the dumb - CHT?