Stuck Oil Pressure Sender

[JJ 911SC]

I got the new one but the old one does not want to come out

Maybe one of the PO's put some Loctite Red

Any idea before I get the dremel out, already cut all the mufflers and 6 of the exhaust manifold nut out so one more would not be a big thing but I don't one to mess up the threads.

Heat?

[DRACO A5OG]

Oh damn, what a nightmare.

If I may suggest remove the whole assembly (or remove cam line) with cam line attached to it, soak in solvent i.e. mineral oil for awhile, wipe off and put it on a vise, heat it up with a heat gun then break it loose. Insuring the cam base is secure.

my 2 cents.

[jpnovak]

Yep, take it off the car. If you remove the cam line you can then unscrew the fitting that goes through the mount (banjo style) . Then clamp the mount base in a vise a wrench away. Heat is your friend.

[JJ 911SC]

Sound good guys. My only worry is I need the fitting to get back in the same position, test and trial I guess. Right now its tilting back a bit (@355 degrees so I got another 5 degrees of tightening room).

Thanks

J.J.

[Flat6pac]

+1 on the take it off. There is no room even in a vise to get on the ??mm base because its so thin. What I have found is a Channel Lock brand 10 inch channel lock pliers have a thin head and will fit into the narrow flats.
Heat is still your friend..
Bruce

[dshepp806]

remove assembly first! Sheeit could go wrong otherwise.....


Doyle

[Joe Bob]

Wasn't this the area where a guy over on the continent ended up breaking the case?

Have you tried heat, a thin wrench, tighten and loosen?

[JJ 911SC]

Originally Posted by Joe Bob

Wasn't this the area where a guy over on the continent ended up breaking the case?

Have you tried heat, a thin wrench, tighten and loosen?

J.B.

I got the smaller wrench version that you recommended for my oil line from the thermostat (did not need it), Park Tool 24mm.

I'll be trying with heat tomorrow.

[Joe Bob]

Good luck.....

[rnln]

Take the sender and the block off the system. That way, crank as much as you will without afraid breaking anything.

[JJ 911SC]

Originally Posted by rnln

Take the sender and the block off the system. That way, crank as much as you will without afraid breaking anything.

Its out, but...

The Banjo going through the block was just barely above "hand tight" so another leak problem solve.

Took all the banjo bolds out and will be replacing all washers.

Oh yeah the "but";

Try to separate the sender from the block with a channel lock and a wrench, no-go.

Saw the sender off and try with a wrench and a socket, no-go even in the vice.

Put the pneumatic wrench to it, and still nothing at 120psi (my manifold stud came out at 50psi) Yes, I'm going the right way

So look like I'm getting a new block. I'll let this one soak for a few days and retry but I"ll worrying about any damage to the block even if it come apart.

Thanks to all

[DRACO A5OG]

Geez, even with heat? wow, freakin previous Moron for adding the locktite

[Targalid]

Try soaking it in tetrahydrofuran (THF), aka PVC pipe primer. It's cheap at the hardware store. Just drop the whole part into the can, or pour it into a larger can with a sealable lid wide enough to accept the part assembly, like a small paint can. THF evaporates quickly so you need to confine it in a container to let it work. Another option is to soak it similarly in paint stripper which contains methylene chloride, a great solvent for plastics. If that doesn't soak the loctite loose, you may need to get a new part.

[rnln]

wow. I would let it soak, put the block on a vise, use air impact gun. If it sctill doesn't work, I agree on getting new block.

[JJ 911SC]

Finally...

24hrs soaking, 5 min of heat and still did not move at 120 Psi but came out at 140.

Nothing on the thread and they do not look damage but the washer is some crush.

I'll see how the new sender goes in.

Thanks

JJ

[rnln]

for reference, where do you direct the heat to? The sensor (left with the bolt) or the bock?

[JJ 911SC]

Originally Posted by rnln

for reference, where do you direct the heat to? The sensor (left with the bolt) or the bock?

You had to ask... 2 days later

I think I did most on the the "nut" and a bit on the block all around. Then I did the 120lb with nothing... so I was kind of crank the pressure at 140 and it "flew out".

Did a good inspection, under a magnifying glass and no damage to the treads on either the "nut" or the block. The new one go in very smoothly.

[1soanso]

Originally Posted by JJ 911SC

You had to ask... 2 days later

I think I did most on the the "nut" and a bit on the block all around. Then I did the 120lb with nothing... so I was kind of crank the pressure at 140 and it "flew out".

Did a good inspection, under a magnifying glass and no damage to the treads on either the "nut" or the block. The new one go in very smoothly.

Apologize dredging this up but I am about to swap out my sending unit as well and I cannot find the torque setting for re-tightening the new sender into the block. Does anyone know what that setting is? Thank you.

Found it here, I missed it the first time I searched.

Replacing oil pressure sensors: torque specs

[john walker's workshop]

Tight as you can with the block in a vise is all you need.