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Replacing oil pressure sender: torque specs

Greetings,

Yesterday I removed the oil pressure sending unit on my 1982 SC. I took it off with the mounting block as a single unit by loosening and/or disconnecting the adjacent oil line. The sending unit and block are relaxing with some Kroil. There are some good threads out there on this job, but I could not find any with torque specs for reinstalling.

My questions are:

What is the torque spec for the sending unit to the mount block? Will I need a 24mm crow foot for my torque wrench or will open ended 24 suffice?

I see in the Bentley that the oil gauge sensor to crankcase is 26 ft-lbs. I have to assume this refers to the through bolt at the sending unit to case. Confirm?

Torque for banjo bolt at other end at the tensioner?

OR, is it best to use the Budy Guy method and “go by feel” on this with snug ups if needed.

Thanks all!

Last edited by OldSpool87; 02-13-2018 at 04:03 PM.. Reason: Correcting spelling
Old 02-11-2018, 03:37 AM
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I got some great advice from a member offline via email. Reading through all the threads on this topic, it’s surprising some folks try removal/reinstall in situ.

I have the sending unit and block out of the car and separated after the Kroil did its job. Looking forward to reinstalling as time permits...
Old 02-12-2018, 02:02 PM
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Meant for this to land in the 911 tech forum…
Old 02-12-2018, 02:04 PM
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Which way is the chamfered side of the sensor block oriented? Toward or away from the engine? The PET leads me to believe it should face toward the engine.

Thanks.


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Old 02-13-2018, 03:39 PM
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The sensor has an aluminum crush/seal ring so it doesn't have to be super tight. The handy spec book I have for the '84 -'87 models says a max of 35Nm (x 0.7375 = 25 lb-ft) this, and I assume it's the same for the earlier models with the same size sensor threads (M18x1.5) in the steel block. Unfortunately I don't have the earlier SC book scanned (I had to sacrifice an old weathered Carrera spec book to cut the pages and scan it) but i'm confident the torque spec is the same.



You definitely did the right thing by removing that banjo screw and thereby removing the steel block from the engine case. There's been a few instances here on the forum that I can recall where guys attempted to remove the pressure sender can from the steel block, with it still mounted on the engine. The force required to loosen the sender was great enough to break a chunk of the engine case in a very critical location- where there's oil pressure passed through the hole in the case

The banjo bolt on the cam housing is M10 x 1.0 threads. Torque on that also doesn't need to be a typical M10 torque since it is a banjo bolt (hollow bolts can't take as much torque as solid bolts) and it has crush washers above and below the banjo fitting. Snug + 1/8th additional turn is plenty. These are definitely by feel.
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Old 02-14-2018, 11:01 AM
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Thanks KTL. Upon disassembly it appeared that the crush washers at the banjo fittings and mounting block were copper. I have fresh copper replacements but am curious if I should source aluminum ones for a softer touch. Probably overthinking it.
Old 02-14-2018, 01:33 PM
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I just messed with these lines. I had an actual mix of copper and aluminum washers. It was copper on the banjo at the at the pressure sender and the tensioner and aluminum at the banjo near the valve covers. I tightened them by feel.
Old 02-14-2018, 01:40 PM
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Definitely by feel. I broke one on mine years ago so having a spare on hand isn't a bad idea either.
Not used to this light of a tighten up.
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Old 02-15-2018, 04:44 AM
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