Removing CIS
 

Is it possible to remove the CIS on 3.0 SC without dropping the engine?

Yes. It’s not super easy and expect to use a lot if not all the sweat words and get some bruises, but it can most certainly be done in under an hour.

I find it necessary to do a partial drop (loosen rear motor mounts and drop the rear of the motor a couple inches) to get my CIS off my 2.7 while the engine is still in the car. It's tricky to get to all the bolts without a wide array of end wrenches / sockets / crows-foot wrenches.

Raise the rear wheels to save your back...

I removed the CIS on my 3.0SC without removing the engine.

I think it took me close to eight hours between the stuck bolts and the "what is holding this in, I thought I removed everything" and the "we'll just bend this out of the way" and the "WTF is all this mess back here? I have to remove that too!?" and... It would have been MUCH quicker if I had removed the engine. A skilled and experienced mechanic working on a car in mint condition MAY be able to remove it in an hour, but for your average Joe, I'd schedule a full day. I know I spent well over an hour on a single bolt for the WUR and ended up Dremmelling it out.

Oh, and there's zero chance I'd even attempt to put it back in while the engine is in the car. No sir, no way.

Partial engine drop makes this much easier. Do a search as there are a few items that need to be addressed like disconnecting the shift coupler before you actually lower the engine. And yes, raising the rear wheels saves a lot of back strain.

I did it in under an hour. If not all that difficult. Taking things apart is relatively easy, it’s putting them back together that’s complicated. If you were trying to keep the CIS in working condition and perfect then it becomes really difficult because you’re trying not to stress any of the connections or care any of the rubber hoses, etc. But if you are replacing it with another induction system and you can sacrifice things it’s much easier.

Lots of swivels and extensions for your socket set will be a godsend.

Where to begin?

CIS Removal In Situ...........
 

Joe,

You could remove all the CIS components in situ. Meaning no need to do a partial drop. The removal process is easy and straight forward with the motor installed. But installation is a completely different scenario. Since this will be your first time, just take your time. The trick is having the right tools like flex 13-mm socket/s, forceps, magnetic pick-up tools, inspection mirror, etc.

I will not even think of doing this project without these tools:
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The removal process could be done in so many ways. But if you start the removal of components like fuel lines, WUR, AAR, blower, snorkel, air filter, etc. you make more space to work around. Take as many pictures and write notes because you will be surprised how good is your memory when you need it.

I like to start removing intake runners 1-2-3 first because the intake runner boots steel bands are more accessible than 4-5-6 intake runners. Cover the intake ports and account for all the nuts and washers from the 6 intake runners. Do not over look this simple precaution because it would save you from having a bent valve or worse.

Tony

Joe,

You don’t say if you plan on putting it back on or not?

Be ready to capture any residual fuel when you undo the lines.

Follow Tony’s advice with lots of pictures and account for all parts and get the intake ports taped over as soon as possible.

There is a 13mm nut holding the air box on from the back and at the bottom to look for.

Rutager

Yes I was planning to put it back

Why are you removing it?

What the heck. It takes me half an hour to get the thing off with the engine on a stand. How are people doing it in situ in an hour?

If there is no video, it took longer than 1 hr. ;). Takes me 10-15 minutes to get the car in the air on jack stands. Then another 20 to find all the tools. Then the lost spring off runner to cyl #2 ... and on and on ...

Of course they likely have all done it before too. I'm still waiting for the 10 minute world record claim. Might be possible with a small team of trained mechanics, sorta like a pit stop at Lemons!

And then there is the install, getting all those intake runners to fit is a grad treat in SITU, especially if one changed out the rubber connectors from air box to the runners ask me how I know :mad:. If your under 40 it's a lot less hard on the back too.

Yeah those runners are a chore, I was much happier replacing those on a bench.

The thing that got me is that some previous owner down the line had done CIS work and had put the runners back together with the hose clamps pointing down against the fan shroud. Down. Down!!!

There were a few other instances on the car where that happened--someone put a thing back together on a bench without considering how it would work once on the car.

I replaced the CIS with carbs on my 2.7 over the summer. I took me 3 hours to get the CIS off in undamaged condition with the motor in. There's plenty of room to get all the parts out, you just have to be conscious of the order they come out.

Once you have to parts out, you'll likely find that all the lines, fuel, vacuum, etc are brittle and need replacing. In my opinion, this is a good/cost effective time to switch to a different engine management system. That being said, I have a full working CIS boxed up (with adjustable WUR) if you need spare parts.

I'm with this guy

I re & Re'd mine with a partial drop and it can be done. My back wasnt the happiest when it was all over.

I did mine as well with a partial drop. The bolts on the number 6 intake are a bugger. Get a 12mm swivel socket or two or three... you may need to try a few different types to get one to work.

One of the most useful tools you’ll come across is a magnet stick- unless you’re extremely lucky you will drop washers, nuts and bolts in all sorts of inaccessible spots.

Assemble the works on a very flat surface to get all of the intakes lined up and line up the hose clamps so you can get a screwdriver on them when installed.

Practice chaining together multiple swear words in long sentences, this will come in very handy!

On my car, it seemed that every washer that rolled into an inaccessible spot was non magnetic. Ether stainless or aluminum. Im now proficient skewering washers with bent coat hangers and dental picks while doing Yoga over my engine.

Get a pair of those claw end cables- saved my butt many times.
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