I may be wrong, but I thought the runner bolt nuts are 12 mm. So having the 12 mm !/4 inch socket is handy, get a set of 1/4 inch drive flex sockets.

Cheers

I think they might be stock, but mine were a 13mm head nylock and I replaced with 12mm head locking copper.

I guess it just depends on whatever somebody threw on in the past.

Intake fasteners.......
 

Mike,

The intake runner fasteners could be either 12, 13, or even 14 mm nuts. That’s the reason I have different flex sockets for this job. The OEM self-locking nuts are 12 mm, the 13 and 14 mm nuts are replacement fasteners. The 13-mm is the most common fasteners I find on these motors unless you still have the original fasteners (12-mm self-locking). Just use the appropriate tool.

Tony

So should I start with the runners ?

took my 90 minutes including jacking and i did it with a small partial drop , didnt even disconnect coupler, just did a few inches..
https://i.imgur.com/8pzOqkr.jpg

obviously start with all heater lines and blower motor and ducting , pull plug wires and then you will have a much clearer view of everything, fuel lines and sensor/ electrical lines linkages , then start undoing runners and see what holds you up.

If you do a partial drop, be sure to undo the coupler! Sometimes a partial drop can get away from you and if it goes farther than you want, you’ll be really glad you spent the extra “30 seconds” it takes to disconnect the shift coupler. Disconnect the appropriate wires too, check out partial drop threads for advice. May as well disconnect the line to the booster at the airbox too if your dropping, it has to come off anyway. It’s on the 1,2,3 side.

It’s only 4 screws and then a 4 mm Allen wrench. You’ll want a lengthy one to reach the coupler. Or, don’t disconnect the coupler and risk bending something expensive if your partial drop gets away from you.

If you can get the nuts off number 6 runner, without a partial drop you might not need one. Then you might beat Iceman’s 90 minute time ;)
You’ll need to pull your fuel injectors. They can be persnickety too, if they don’t just pull out easily, then a crows foot wrench (or an open end wrench) around the injector so you can use it to brace your leverage (screw driver) helps move the injector up.

Having done this removal and install both ways, there is no way I’ll ever do it again in SITU. However, dropping the engine and transmission does look formidable and once dropped you need to have a place to work on the engine.

Not sure what plugs iceman was talking about. Maybe the electrical plugs (there are four of these) to the WUR, CSV, AAV and the one to the plate near/behind the FD on the 4,5,6 side. These just pull off, and don’t loose those pesky clips, had one sneak into a cylinder, glad they are magnetic. Don’t overlook the nut holding the air-box to the engine plate at the front (towards the steering wheel) or the spring on number 2 runner.

Be sure to stuff clean rags into the open cylinders as soon as you can. And buy the way not all CIS removals are equal. You might have an “easy” year. Some years are too hard even for pros to remove in SITU. Maybe all SC’s are equal? Not sure, I recall reading mine was easy ‘78.

Oh, be sure to set your timer before you start ;)

yeah that's what i did , but left injectors in place and just pulled it all ..

Does having a 4 post lift make things easier? I mean not having to work bent over as much. If I manage to undo all the runners can it be pulled out through the trunk lid?

That was smart. I pulled my injectors because I wanted to change the o-rings and broken sleeves and for me, it’s a bit easier to pull the injectors with the runners firmly bolted.

Easier to get it to were your back is less strained than with Jack stands, you need to do some other disconnecting than just the runners, like wiring, a couple of vacuum lines and that nut in the front holding the airbox, then you can lift it out of the engine compartment.

Then you do a happy dance for good luck and lift the CIS beast up and out! Multiple dances required for the install ;)

How available are the hoses if I need to replace them?

Pelican sells all the sizes, just measure inside and outside diameters and look them up- they will be in mm.

Smart money is to replace them all- not much money in the long run.

Everything is available and not too expensive, but the vacuum manifold that connects to the intake boot and the auxiliary air valves is $$$ and hard to find. I've seen people suggest having them made if they need replacement.

you can talk about this all day and try to plan for every single eventuality , best thing is to just roll up your sleeves and get at it .

https://i.imgur.com/6RwnPRa.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KKLvpoC.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/q2lx1Xd.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/W07oMru.jpg

Your right it's just mustering up the courage to begin.
The car is running right now but the long winter is coming here to Montreal and would be a good project to work on during those long days.

I too wonder why. If there is troubleshooting needed, then I think that is best done in situ.

But in any case, if I needed to remove a CIS, I would do a partial engine drop and remove it as one piece. Then I would reinstall it as one piece. Ot is fairly remarkable how few things need to be disconnected for a partial engine drop. A couple of electrical plugs. A fuel connection. Shift coupler. And, I think, oil lines. throttle linkage.

Heck....the entire engine and tranny can come out rather quickly if you use a drill or air wrench to remove the CV bolts. I think Mr. Walker does it in about a half hour, probably. But then, he's a pro with all the right equipment and something close to 50 years experience.

Oh...and once you are in there, be sure to replace the o-ring in the Devil's Triangle that tends to fail and leak. Part of the engine oil system, near the engine-mounted oil cooler.

I don't see how doing a partial engine drop will give me more access to the back components.

If you can get the inside (towards the engine side) nut off runner #6 with the tools you have, then only the nut on the front of the air-box might wish for a partial drop (can't recall if this one is reachable without it, must be). All the other runner nuts can be easily reached in situ without a drop.

You will have more wrench position variability with a partial drop for number 6. Try to get the inside nut off of runner 6 without a partial. Once it's off, getting it back on is a challenge too, especially with the oil cooler shroud in place (IIRC).

Keep us posted. And good luck.

because its quicker to drop and have access than to constantly fight without access.
lose early ... get it out of the way and you will be much happier.