Another Green Wire Thread - 3.0 SC

[mikedsilva]

Ok, so I have been rebuilding 911 engines for a short while now but electrics are not my forte by any means.

Long story short, it appears to be the green wire that is faulty. Here is a video I took showing the motor running and how I can jiggle the wire and have it affect the spark.

I've ordered the long 928 green wire.

My question is, what's an acceptable way to do this repair?
Do I plug it into the dist, and then cut the bosch plug off revealing the shield and the signal wire? And then attach some spade connectors to those and plug them into the cdi plug, after removing the original wires?
And run the new green wire along the harness and tape it up?

My plan was to remove the current plug from the dist, then check which terminal goes to pins 7 and 31d (CDI plug) using a multimeter (checking basic continuity) and them simply replicate this.

Does this sound feasible?

[914Ravi911]

It will be good to hear the solution.

[Nditiz1]

I did mine about 2 years ago. I'm not familiar with the 928 route. I did the regular connector splicing in the timer Jr.

Steps taken from another pelican post timmy2 aka Dennis.

1. Buy the timer junior connector kit I posted a link to. Or from me.

2.Cut the existing coax cable so that the total length to the distributor will be the same with the new green wire segment connected. (you are replacing the last 6 inches)

3. Carefully remove about one inch of the green coax outer casing exposing the braided shield.

4. Bend the coax at the edge of the removed outer casing point, and carefully open the braid a little, and push/ feed the bend of the center green wire through it. (Fish it out of the braid)

5. Now you should twist the braided shield to look like a bare wire. The cable end should now look like it has 2 wires coming out of it.

6. Fit some small heat shrink over the shielded cable leaving about 1/8th" of exposed conductor at the very end. Remove about the same amount of insulation from the inner green wire you exposed.

7. Slide the new rubber boot over the cable past the wires. (Or do this first)

8. Crimp the terminals to the shield and green wire.

9. Use a meter to determine which wire is the green wire in the new cable at the male timer jr connector and then insert the terminals into the new female connector in the right spot. Slide on the rubber boot, connect the connectors and you are done.

[timmy2]

Distributor Green wire loose and frayed

[mikedsilva]

Originally Posted by Nditiz1

I did mine about 2 years ago. I'm not familiar with the 928 route. I did the regular connector splicing in the timer Jr.

Steps taken from another pelican post timmy2 aka Dennis.

1. Buy the timer junior connector kit I posted a link to. Or from me.

2.Cut the existing coax cable so that the total length to the distributor will be the same with the new green wire segment connected. (you are replacing the last 6 inches)

3. Carefully remove about one inch of the green coax outer casing exposing the braided shield.

4. Bend the coax at the edge of the removed outer casing point, and carefully open the braid a little, and push/ feed the bend of the center green wire through it. (Fish it out of the braid)

5. Now you should twist the braided shield to look like a bare wire. The cable end should now look like it has 2 wires coming out of it.

6. Fit some small heat shrink over the shielded cable leaving about 1/8th" of exposed conductor at the very end. Remove about the same amount of insulation from the inner green wire you exposed.

7. Slide the new rubber boot over the cable past the wires. (Or do this first)

8. Crimp the terminals to the shield and green wire.

9. Use a meter to determine which wire is the green wire in the new cable at the male timer jr connector and then insert the terminals into the new female connector in the right spot. Slide on the rubber boot, connect the connectors and you are done.

yes, this seems like the easier and smarter way to do this.
I opted for a more difficult approach!
When I ordered the wire, I wasn't sure where it was corrupted so I thought best to buy the 928 long version and replace the entire length.

After I pulled the plug from the dist, I could see the break. The outer braided sheath is actually making contact with the internal signal wire. I can squeeze it together and they beep on my multimeter (probes are connected to the two terminals on the end of the connector).

plan is to unravel the mess of ****ty electrical tape from the rest of the harness, and put two new terminals on the new green wire.. hopefully it's long enough. (it should arrive tomorrow)


Will update this later.

[mikedsilva]