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disfrutalaruta
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Posts: 70
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Please help with bolted (?) ingnition cap / cover!

Howdy folks,
My ignition switch finally gave out after years of working intermittently. I can't get the cover off because it seems to be some sort of aftermarket security feature. THe cap that normally just screws off looks like it is attached with a screw or bolt from the back. It seems impossible to find the back of this bolt / screw. Anyone have any advice?
Thanks,
Shane and Paolo

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Shane

77 911s w/ 3.0L
Architect, Surfer, but mostly a Dad
Old 01-22-2023, 12:08 PM
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I can’t help you with getting the cover off but do you know that you can do the job from the back, without removing the cover?
Old 01-22-2023, 12:12 PM
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disfrutalaruta
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
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I didn't! How to I detach the electrical portion from the back without taking it all apart???
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Shane

77 911s w/ 3.0L
Architect, Surfer, but mostly a Dad
Old 01-22-2023, 12:27 PM
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The first and most important part is to remove your driver's seat so that you can lay in its place and see what you are doing. Once you get your head in there you will see that it’s quite tight but easily achievable. I did mine last year, hence my comment. I had to remove one switch which was in the way and the prize the plug off the back of the switch using a thin bladed screwdriver. Once this was done you just have to remove two or three, can’t recall which, mounting screws. I borrowed a very short handled ratchet that worked well in the confined space and helped make the removal and replacement of the screws and lot easier. Hope this helps
Old 01-22-2023, 12:39 PM
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disfrutalaruta
 
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Thanks Ian! I am gonna give it a try. Seat coming out now.
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Shane

77 911s w/ 3.0L
Architect, Surfer, but mostly a Dad
Old 01-22-2023, 12:42 PM
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One more thing, for your comfort. Once you have removed the seat put some foam padding on the floor as the seat mountings in the floor are a bit uncomfortable without. You would have found this out anyway, just thought I would mention
Old 01-22-2023, 12:44 PM
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disfrutalaruta
 
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Man... I can't get that top screw out - I can't even see it much less get a screwdriver on it. How did you get that out???
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Shane

77 911s w/ 3.0L
Architect, Surfer, but mostly a Dad
Old 01-22-2023, 01:22 PM
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The bolt is a anti-thief shear bolt. When the bolt is tightened, the head shears off and you a left with nothing to remove the bolt with a normal tool. It would need to be drilled out from the front. These are used in many modern cars.

Youtube video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMrDYJvY0Ts
Old 01-22-2023, 01:25 PM
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disfrutalaruta
 
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The mirror! Of course. Got it now. Now to get the new one in....
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Shane

77 911s w/ 3.0L
Architect, Surfer, but mostly a Dad
Old 01-22-2023, 01:40 PM
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Good work Shane, like I said, it’s fiddly but possible and I think easier than doing it from the front
Old 01-22-2023, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disfrutalaruta View Post
Man... I can't get that top screw out - I can't even see it much less get a screwdriver on it. How did you get that out???
The top screw holding the electrical portion of the lock to the mechanical portion?

You can't see it at all once you've got the tool on it. You can line the tool up with a head-mounted light, but you have to do it pretty much entirely by feel, however much of a turn at a time as you can manage... Thumb wheel on the ratchet helps a lot when it's loose...

FIddly, but doable with the appropriate tool. Get used to the strange yoga position, you'll be there a while - like maybe 30-45 minutes to remove/replace the top screw. Each time. I did mine with the only thing that came close to getting on it:



I think I'd be very inclined to drill out the bolt holding that security plate on and get rid of it. Pulling the entire lock assembly out from the front has to be easier/faster.
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Old 01-25-2023, 06:37 AM
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The steel my be harder than 125ksi (Grade 5’sh). Center punch a starter dimple, then drill the center “In the Center” with a #40-45 bit. If it gets off track, drive the drill motor where you need the hole. Then drill to the recommended hole size for extractor. Practice on a couple of bolts in you bench vise.
Old 01-25-2023, 08:21 AM
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I just replaced my entire ignition switch...and have repeatedly taken it out now. Ordered the new electrical portion and thought I would try the "less expensive" version. I would advise don't do that. Had problems with it not returning correctly to the 'run' position and unless I 'jiggled it' my electronics didn't work or come on.

Ordered an OEM one and problem disappeared. So, I think in this case you get what you pay for and it is the electronics so I learned not to be cheap.

I did not have the bolt you have on the front but did have the two shear bolts on my 86'. I used the method from another thread to remove which works by using a filed punch and small hammer, creating a groove and lightly hammering until the bolts start to loosen - took patience but IT WORKED...for one bolt. The other I used a dremel to create a screw like groove and finally got leverage with a screwdriver to get out.

Tips on Removing Ignition Switch

Word of warning though...a dremel in there has the potiential to make contact with the face of the dash so be very very careful...I wouldn't recommend the dremel but it does work and is possible. It did make contact with the dash but will be covered by the round face plate cover.

I was going down the path you were by just replacing the electrical portion and kept reading about just taking it all out and how you can inspect the mechanical, clean and lube...so glad I did. It's a pain the first time, but mine was terribly dirty and full of gunk and I would have never known unless I removed it all. I highly recommend.

Ignition Switch Replacement (Pretty Sure Anyway...)

Again, do it once and it makes sense and now I can remove it all in minutes.

There are a few good threads on cleaning and lubricating the mechanical/lock portion. Initially, I got everything apart and just soaked the mechanical portion with WD-40 and let it soak in a bit...could not believe how the key turned and the "locking mechanism" (for the steering wheel lock) worked. I then let it set and came back and gently kept turning the key - I then took electronic cleaner (it was that or brake cleaner which seemed too harsh) and with my compressor lightly blew all that out...lubricated with TriFlow (online/bike shop) and it's like new now.

In the event you do get the shear bolts out replace them with something different like a hex head or typical bolt head. I drive my car daily and am more afraid of flatbread truck taking my car as opposed to a car thief removing/messing with my ignition switch...that's just me though.


Hopefully this helps your decision making...take the seats out for sure, blanket down is good advice. I replaced the entire ignition switch and headlight switch and with everything out it made things easier. Just document everything, take a ton of photos and search on the forums...all the answers are here. I can't thank others enough for their help and input!



EDIT: Patience, Patience, and Patience...is the overall theme with the ignition switch and headlight switch...




Erik

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Last edited by fallingat120mph; 01-25-2023 at 08:33 AM..
Old 01-25-2023, 08:27 AM
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