Main Seal Installation

[cmcfaul]

I replaced the Main Seal on my 3.2 during a clutch change (should have left it alone).

It leaks like a sieve when the engine is running. Not sure what I did wrong.

Can someone please provide the best procedure and the best seal to use.

Many thanks,

Chris
89 Carrera.

[gomezoneill]

You Tube

[proporsche]

this topic was just here recently try the search button......could have should have....it is hard to say...if the spring on the seal has fallen off or what?
You have to take it out most likely ,sorry for that ....

Ivan

[OSC911]

I recently did a clutch on my 993 and also some "while I am there" tasks one of which was the main seal. I have done lots and lots of RMS on other cars but only a couple of 911s. I used the same process on every one and thankfully I have never had a leak. Unfortunately i don't have access to any special tools so i use what i have. I use a small block of wood, grease up the inner seal lip with general purpose grease including the spring area as to ensure the spring doesn't pop out. I tap it in carefully making sure it is square. Always works for me. Perhaps the inner spring jumped off? I always use the Elring or Porsche seals by the way.

This is for a conventional seal. I recently did a 996 and it had an FTE seal without a spring. I put that in dry as they will fail straight away if they are greased up which is what my understanding is.

[Rodsrsr]

Do your research, as there are tons of threads on this. I'm in the same boat as you. Replaced RMS on my 3.2 (that wasn't leaking) while I was in there, and leaked like a sieve when I started.

I assumed I didn't install properly so I pulled the engine and did the job a second time being extremely careful to properly install the seal. I've replaced seals on engines for years and have never had a problem so I really didn't think too much of it. Start it up and its still leaking, but slightly less. Still too much to drive. If I get the car to operating temp you can see it leaking and when I shut it off the next day there's a puddle of oil the size of a shop rag under the car.

This was a few months ago and I decided to wait until it warms up before I pull the motor again. In the meantime I've read up on the different types of seals. (Probably going with the Porsche seal next time). First time I used Victor Reinz, and the second time I used the Eldrig which people seem to swear by.

The VR seal was extremely tight and I had a hard time tapping it in which is why I felt in retrospect I may have installed it slightly crooked. The Eldrige went in way too easy for my liking. I was almost able to press it in by hand.

My next plan is to JB weld both plug areas along with the case seam below the RMS area to ensure no leaks. Others have also used Yamabond on the outer perimeter of the seal to help prevent leaks from that area. As a last ditch effort I may even shorten the spring to help tighten the seal against the crank. This is will be the last I pull the engine for this issue. My personal opinion is that the QC went down and there's a bad batch of seals on the market currently, but if Im missing anything or anyone else has ideas feel free to chime in. BTW.... if your RMS isn't leaking don't mess with it.

[Rodsrsr]

I found this tool specifically for the early 911 which should ensure it goes in straight so I can officially rule that problem out.

[dtxscott]

Here’s how I did it recently.

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1104955-flywheel-side-crank-seal-installation.html

[mikedsilva]

Originally Posted by Rodsrsr

This was a few months ago and I decided to wait until it warms up before I pull the motor again. In the meantime I've read up on the different types of seals. (Probably going with the Porsche seal next time). First time I used Victor Reinz, and the second time I used the Eldrig which people seem to swear by.

The VR seal was extremely tight and I had a hard time tapping it in which is why I felt in retrospect I may have installed it slightly crooked. The Eldrige went in way too easy for my liking. I was almost able to press it in by hand.

My next plan is to JB weld both plug areas along with the case seam below the RMS area to ensure no leaks. Others have also used Yamabond on the outer perimeter of the seal to help prevent leaks from that area. As a last ditch effort I may even shorten the spring to help tighten the seal against the crank. This is will be the last I pull the engine for this issue. My personal opinion is that the QC went down and there's a bad batch of seals on the market currently, but if Im missing anything or anyone else has ideas feel free to chime in. BTW.... if your RMS isn't leaking don't mess with it.

I recently had this issue on the crank pulley seals. I used Elring seals... and each time I would get a leak. The engine was on a test stand so I could easily monitor. Tried shortening the spring a little.. tried shortening the spring a lot! After the 4th Elring seal, I switched to a Kaco seal, which I think is the same brand you get when you order genuine Porsche. This time, no leak...

[cmcfaul]

Rodsrsr,

Is there a name or part number for that tool?

I think I am going to try the Kaco Seal and possibly JB the outer perimeter if it feels loose. I believe the seal I have in there went in very easily (too easily) It was definitely not a VR seal.

Chris
89 Carrera

[cmcfaul]

dtxscott

I read your post. What does the cup do?

Chris

[yelcab1]

I have done a bunch of these RMS. The hardest ones are on the Ferrari 355. On any 911 (911, SC, Carrera, 996, 997), all I ever need is a block of wood and a hammer.

1) Clean the bore really well
2) Clean the crank really well
3) Oil the crank and the inside of the seal lip
4) Fit the seal over the crank making sure the spring does not come loose
5) Push it in evenly, tap it in so it starts without being crooked.
6) Use a 6 inch long 1x4 piece of wood, lay it over the seal, tap it in a bit at a time in different places around the seal
7) continue until it is flush

Start with a good seal, buy from Porsche.

[Rodsrsr]

Originally Posted by cmcfaul

Rodsrsr,

Is there a name or part number for that tool?

I think I am going to try the Kaco Seal and possibly JB the outer perimeter if it feels loose. I believe the seal I have in there went in very easily (too easily) It was definitely not a VR seal.

Chris
89 Carrera

So the consensus seems to be the Porsche seal. I've actually purchased another Eldrig and Porsche seal for comparison and the Porsche definitely seems to be more well made.

As far as the tool. I found it here: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-porsche-parts/rear-main-seal-installation-tool/00072191260/

I tried the block of wood the first time being extremely careful. The second time I even used the old seal to help drive in the new one and it still leaked. I didn't want to spend the money on a tool that I'll probably only use once but its too big of a job to risk after doing it twice. I really think there's an issue with the seals being produced. I've never had a problem with a seal like this before.

[cmcfaul]

I will buy the Porsche seal and try to borrow thg e tool from someone. Porsche community is great in that way.

Chris

[Rodsrsr]

Depending on how soon you need it, you can borrow the one I have.

[Rodsrsr]

I took this picture before reinstalling the engine the second time. This is the Eldring seal and it looks to be installed correctly, however I didn't JB weld the two plugs or seal the case seam. Two things I'll do next time. (along with using the Porsche seal)

[dtxscott]

Originally Posted by cmcfaul

dtxscott

I read your post. What does the cup do?

Chris

It guides the inner seal over the crank smoothly so the seal doesn't deform while going on.

[cmcfaul]

Porsche seal is $44.00. LOL Not taking chances as the process of changing the seal is major. Ordering it and 12 qts of oil today. Hoping for a free weekend and warm weather soon.

Chris

89 Carrera

[Rodsrsr]

Same here. Ready to go, just waiting on warm weather.

[Rodsrsr]

Finally getting around to doing this. Should have the engine out by tomorrow. I'll post updates on what I find.

[Rodsrsr]

Engine is out and gearbox separated, but I also found 2 issues on top in the triangle of death area. Oil pressure switch was slightly loose and I also found a cracked fitting on top of the oil breather. (I use a fitting as an oil return from the scavenge pump) I'm sure both of these issues contributed to the leak but I still don't like the way the seal looks.
Here is what it looked like and it appears it may have been leaking from the bottom area, maybe the case seam?