How long to drop the engine?
 

Might be a silly question, but about how long does it take to drop an engine/tranny set on a 911 if you've got a 2-post lift, a hydraulic table cart, and every tool known to mankind? It LOOKS easy, but surely there's a gotcha there somewhere. Do you have to take a beer break while the oil drains, or is it really an under-an-hour process like it appears to be?

If you do it a lot, about an hour or so. 1st time, maybe 2-3ish. Carbed engines are pretty easy, CIS and Carreras and later are more work.

I’ve done exactly one drop (also assisted by cart and scissor lift), and working very slowly it took me probably 4 hours. I was expecting many “gotchas”, but there were none that I can recall. A good checklist is probably priceless though - there are lots here and in the books, but the FCP euro blog has one by a member with lots of photos that is very helpful.

Plan for two-three hours taking it step by step the 1st time (with no gotchas like stripped CV bolts, etc.), an hour or less once you have confidence and experience.

Agree with all the above. I have done it exactly one time on an 83SC. I have a scissor lift, hydraulic table end every tool known to mankind as well. Set the day aside but it really just took 2-3 hours with no help.

It's fast and relatively easy, the only part that stinks is doing the CV bolts. Without a helper they're just a chore.

The first time I dropped my engine was in 1998 for an engine rebuild and it took four hours to unhook and remove. Since then, i have pulled the motor four times. The most recent engine drop was for a blown airbox that was two years ago, and it took just over an hour to remove. Initially, I removed the airbox by doing a partial engine drop and it was back breaking work. So, I decided to pull the motor for the reinstall of the airbox and to do a smoke test of the CIS vacuum lines before reinstalling of the motor. For the first engine drop in 1998 I built a "U" shaped dolly (found the plans on Rennlist). The "U" shaped dolly allowed me to remove the jack once the engine was dropped. I still have the dolly stored in the garage waiting for the next time its needed.

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I found a way to do CV bolts easily with no helper. Did all of them while staying under the car on jack stands and not having to climb into car.
Just left the parking break off and removed rear wheels, put the right socket on center wheel nut with a big ratchet and a cheater bar long enough to touch ground and be locked into position. Set the ratchet to clockwise or anti-clockwise, depending on wheel and, then you can unscrew each bolt, with the ratchet and cheater bar acting like a parking break, while turning the CV by hand in the opposite "ratchet-clicking" direction.
Don't know if this is clear. Anyway it was fun and easy, and of course it works for both removal and install.

Drop the engine and tranny together. When I auto xed I had two trannies, 7 and 8:31. Depending on event, I could swap them in a little over 2 hours if very motivated. Now, F that noise, too old and I no longer auto x so the 831 is in for good.

I used a motorcycle Jack.. nice and low.
I don't have a lift or anything. Just lots
Of cribbing. Didn't have to take the rear
bumpers off. Done it several times and gets
Easier once you get everything laid out.
Good luck!http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685634045.jpg

That's a good idea! I've been using a pry-bar between the wheel studs against the ground and while it works your idea sounds tons more reliable.

I suppose the pros would simply impact them off in 5 minutes with the car on the lift. No need to get under, undo one or two, turn the wheels, do the next bunch etc with the trusty ratchet or remove the wheels and somehow lock the hub or have someone climb in the car and engage the brakes.

Sounds like some additional tools are in order for my next drop.

What took a great deal of time for me was documenting all the bits and cables as I disassembled to make sure I could get it back together.

After watching a few youtube videos, i did my first drop in about 4 hours on a 3.2. I used HF motorcycle jack and plywood plate. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685674168.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685674168.jpg

I did use an impact for removal, and indeed it took no less than 5 minutes per wheel.

But for install, no impact can be used, and that's when you need to tighten all six bolts around and do another round with torque wrench for proper torque. Then comes into play this trick with the ratchet and cheater bar or if you don't have a cheater bar have the ratchet rest on something tall enough, like a pile of wood planks. Piece of cake.

what i have learned throughout the years is this.
Let`s say if you are only removing the engine , i place the jack plate exactly under the strainer plate, no additional support is needed .The engine is perfectly balanced in the middle.
For the carrera engine the same just more to hand balance, or i use deeper jack plate.
If i remove transmission and engine,there is also perfect center point of balance.Place the jack plate right behind the exhaust cross pipe(engine side in the middle)..and it all comes out very well balanced..
So i use simple jack ....like this never had any problems...in USA i had i think blue point jack

ivan
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads26/facom_jack1685698840.jpg

For CV joints, I like to take off the wheels and wedge a screw driver into the rotor vent holes near the caliper. Works well for me. Thanks to Bruce for giving me the tip. It sure beats getting up and down for the e-brake.

Cheers

I really like the idea of using the HF motorcycle lift (esp. since it’s pretty inexpensive). Can you provide some more details in terms of the dimensions/placement of the wood blocks? Also it looks like there is a metal plate under the plywood. If so, what did you use? Thanks.

Motorcycle lift with stand
 

Mine looks like this:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685710227.jpg
When I shove it under the car I add a piece of carpet on top.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685710321.jpg
I do remove the rear bumper as a full one piece assembly as that gives me an extra 6-8 inches since I just use little Harbor Freight jack stands. No fancy pants lifts.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685710484.jpg
And out it comes....
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About four leisurely hours from the car to the stand with transmission separated.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685710925.jpg

When it time to go back in, I use a separate little lift for remounting the transmission and the starter.
You young pups just grab up that 915 and set it into the bolts...easy peasy...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685711470.jpg
Hook em up...and back under it goes...
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Believe me, removing the rear bumper assembly (30 minutes) gives you a lot more room to work and a lot more safety when using jack stands and you know you need to clean under there anyways.....
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