When I say remove the rear bumper as one assembly do it like this:
Four big bolts in back and about three little fasteners on each side for the fender skirts.
After removing the bumperettes if you got them. They come off for weight but not necessary as long as you unhook the license plate wiring and shove it back through if you leave the bumperettes on.
Just don't mess with those rubber bellows! Take it all off one big piece. You'll thank me later.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685712702.jpg

if you need to, it is even easier to disconnect the 2 front nuts rom the accordions;-)no need to remove the fender extensions....the accordions stays on the extensions.

Ivan

[QUOTE it is even easier to disconnect the 2 front nuts from the accordions;-)no need to remove the fender extensions....the accordions stays on the extensions.

Ivan[/QUOTE]

It's not easier that way...trust me.....

Took me 4 hours my first time, did a youtube video on it, I just had a motorcycle jack and jackstands:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/W870A-EizDE" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Don't need a beer break - just drain oil and undo CVs at the same time . . . or drain the
night before . . . ha ha . . .
Make a list of all connections to undo - - and take lots of photos for the first time . . .

Wish you the best,
Regards,
Roy T

PS: screw driver in brake caliber works for CV bolts - - 3 at a time . . .

It's not easier that way...trust me.....[/QUOTE]


what ever you prefer...did this job zillion times myself...just count the nut and bolts accordion off 4 nuts..fender ext.8 plus align the ext. seal on top of it;-)

Ivan

Or keep the wheels on the "ground" ... will never get under the car on jackstands ... rotate them as needed for easy access to the bolts on install. Torqued as you said, but also checked again after some miles.

Isby, 2x2 plate with sizes on photo. If i build something - it's sturdy. I used 1 5/8 welded strut frame. Wood and strut were scraps. Used a router to cut out the indents after pushing the 4x4 into the case a few times. Since the jack does not have the lift height to the stand, i used my lift truck to raise to stand. Second jack to get the trans up or down. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685737790.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685737790.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685737790.jpg

Maybe everyone already does it this way but, first I drop the engine down then push it forward. That gives me plenty of room to remove the small nuts on the accordions and take off the rear bumper.

+ 1 with Walt. I just embrace rear bumper removal, clean accordion nuts and studs for ease next time you are in there

Bill

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685743650.jpg

... or get the butt up higher.

Usually 1-2 hours depends if I get sidetracked!

Very impressive - thanks. This is probably a stupid question, but I’ll ask anyway … I get that the bottom of the case sits in the deep “v” in the 4x4, and that the side (1x1) pieces are to help balance the engine. But after looking at the underside of my engine (3.2), I’m not sure what part(s) of the engine sit on the side pieces.

It looks like the heat exchangers balance on the two 1x1x12

That makes sense - thanks. I’m assuming that since the vast majority of the engine weight is borne by the big block of wood in the center, the heat exchangers would not be damaged by sitting on the 1x1x12s?? As this will be my first engine drop, I’m concerned about breaking/bending the heat exchangers (or something else down there that will be a nightmare to fix).

The heat exchangers in general are about 1" lower than the engine case/sump. You want to measure the difference on yours for when you make the wood jig as who knows your setup.
In any case, the weight should be distributed across all three supports of the jig
The exchangers will not get damaged.
I throw a 3/4inch piece of carpet across there to absorb and spread the variations.
Most sump cover leaks are the result of peeps jacking up the car by the sump plate and maybe they have a drain nut sticking down. Now the plate gets a small deflection and you have a leak. So that's why you spread the weight and balance across all three points and minimize hard surface contact on the sump to the extent you can. At least your drain plug nut should be gone.

Good ideas re: the carpet and the drain plug. Much appreciated.

Old phonebooks work too, you kept some, right ?

I use an ATV jack - similar to MC jack. And a wood truss on top - simialr to post #19.
BUT - I have castor wheels on it. Drop the ATV jack to the floor, slide it out from the wood carrier, and wheel the carrier where ever you want. And you have the ATV jack to split and refit the trans on.
Alan

Lots of great advice and ingenuity here. I tried to keep my drop simple and safe and found reference to the “small drop” method which minimizes balance anxiety. It worked great, almost stress-free. In my case the engine was dropped a whole 3” and the rear end of the car was then lifted up off of it. This post in a very helpful engine-drop thread gave me the inspiration, it’s worth a look before you pull the trigger.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/714260-first-engine-drop.html#post7064285