Help me get my intake manifold back on - cap nut loctite vs antiseize, reuse old hard

[BrakeL8]

Hoping fellow pelicans can get me sorted out - in a bit of analysis paralysis getting my intake back on.

I see threads about lock washers, wavy washers, not to reuse old hardware, ok to.

Anti seize and if so what’s the modified torque value and some saying blue loctite.

First time I’ve done this - engine has 120k on it and have original hardware with flat washers. Obviously putting new spacers and gaskets on.

Can anyone recommend whether I should re-use my hardware and antiseize or loctite?

Have read a bunch of threads after going down this rabbit hole and while I don’t want to mess anything up really want to drive this again!

Thank you


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[NY65912]

I used the old barrel nuts with Belleville washers. Nothing has loosened in 7 years.

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/standard-washers/lock-washers-4/belleville-spring-lock-washers-for-socket-head-screws/

[David Inc.]

I just used the same copper coated slit-lock nuts as I used for the exhaust, with some regular ass zinc plated washers underneath. Edit: The copper plated slit-lock are nice because they're designed to use a 12mm wrench instead of a 13mm, which helps with access.

https://belmetric.com/slit-lock-nut-copper-plated-steel-exhaust-din-14441/?sku=NC8X12

[mike sampsel]

I've reused the self locking 12 mm nuts which were original, several times. Get them good an snug, have not used a torque wrench (not enough room). With new gaskets every time, the runners indent them. Never had a leak at the runner or a nut come loose either.

[BrakeL8]

Thanks all. What about antiseize or loctite?


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[mike sampsel]

Anti-seize when fastening two different types of metals like aluminum and steel for long time so a reaction doesn’t cause seizing, so no here. Blue loctite unnecessary these nuts don’t go anywhere. But don’t mix the two, seriously if anything would make you sleep better, use blue loctite, but not for me, too messy in those quarters.

There is an old thread on antiseize use on plugs. Some do, some don’t, I do not. If you change your plugs often enough no worries. This is the steel plug aluminum case situation. I used antiseize on the oil temp thermostat where the steel oil line meets the aluminum thermostat, and antiseize in exhaust nuts and bolts, no where else.

Cheers

[Spetrow]

I found the new commercial barrel nuts to be shorter than original thus the stud pushes the hex up and less room to grab the flats of the hex. They don't loosen, its the double gasket and spacer compressing.

[PeteKz]

Because these are friction nuts, I have not had them loosen up. In fact, the opposite--they are tight enough that I backed out one of my head exhaust studs when removing the heat exchangers. I use the 12mm copper nuts and anti seize. I have a Snap-on 12mm 1/4" drive socket that just fits straight up through the tubes in the SSI heat exchangers, which allows me to put a torque wrench on those nuts. even so, I don't normally use a torque wrench, just feel.

[BrakeL8]

Originally Posted by mike sampsel

Anti-seize when fastening two different types of metals like aluminum and steel for long time so a reaction doesn’t cause seizing, so no here. Blue loctite unnecessary these nuts don’t go anywhere. But don’t mix the two, seriously if anything would make you sleep better, use blue loctite, but not for me, too messy in those quarters.

There is an old thread on antiseize use on plugs. Some do, some don’t, I do not. If you change your plugs often enough no worries. This is the steel plug aluminum case situation. I used antiseize on the oil temp thermostat where the steel oil line meets the aluminum thermostat, and antiseize in exhaust nuts and bolts, no where else.

Cheers

Thanks yeah I feel the same way - i don't want loctite in there - unless this is requisite to not have them loosen.

Appreciate your confirmation. Look forward to getting these back together today!

[BrakeL8]

Originally Posted by PeteKz

Because these are friction nuts, I have not had them loosen up. In fact, the opposite--they are tight enough that I backed out one of my head exhaust studs when removing the heat exchangers. I use the 12mm copper nuts and anti seize. I have a Snap-on 12mm 1/4" drive socket that just fits straight up through the tubes in the SSI heat exchangers, which allows me to put a torque wrench on those nuts. even so, I don't normally use a torque wrench, just feel.

Thank you for the detail! Much appreciated.