Cannot Free Oil Line From Tank

[Balisong]

This guy seems welded on. I think it was installed with a sealant unless the putty I see oozing out of the joint is anti-seize.
I’ve tried taps on the wrench with a hammer.
Tried several cycles of heat gun to heat it up.
I was afraid to put a torch on it because of the oil residue in the tank.
Should I dremmel?

[john walker's workshop]

Torch the nut and save the line or dremel and buy a new one.

[Balisong]

Thank you. Torching is ok this close to the oil tank?

[john walker's workshop]

Not going to blow up. Doesn't need to be red hot, just heat it for 15 to 30 seconds and try the wrench on it.

[proporsche]

you can also try using one big hammer and smaller.The big one goes on the opposite side of the nut and hit it with the small one several times on different position of the nut..

[70SWT]

Apply Kroil (or PB Blaster if you can't find Kroil) at least once a day for as many days as you can spare, and let it sit soaking between each.

Then do cycles of Kroil - heat - try - Kroil - heat - try etc. until it gives up. May take multiple days of tries.

A MAPP torch gives strong, focused heat that will let you use shorter heat cycles to reduce the risk of ruining other parts and causing a fire, compared to a cheaper propane torch. Keep a fire extinguisher around anyway.

[Dominik 930]

If the hot air gun (no flame) doesn't help, you have to remove it.
Remove the tank and line in one piece. Then weaken the nut by cutting, but be careful not to cut too deep, the threads must remain intact.

[yelcab1]

People who fix cars for a living have no time (or patience) to apply Kroil three days in a row and wait for it to surrender. Dremmel the effing nut off and replace the nut or the line.

I have very often had to remove the oil cooler and take it to bench then use counterhold force to remove the nut-line. And even then, 50% of the time the oil cooler is bent and has to be replaced at the expense of the owner.

The last ridiculous one took the two of us, each with a 4 foot long cheater pipe, to work the line loose. Yup, you guessed it. The cooler was toast after that.

This is the price one pays to drive old old cars.

[john walker's workshop]

Torch it. How long is your wrench? Leverage always wins.
I bought a pair of 24" crescent wrenches down at Tractor Supply for the stubborn ones. I used to use 18s, but I'm 74 and time takes it's toll on strength.

[al lkosmal]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

Torch it. How long is your wrench? Leverage always wins.
I bought a pair of 24" crescent wrenches down at Tractor Supply for the stubborn ones. I used to use 18s, but I'm 74 and time takes it's toll on strength.

Ain't that the truth......working on getting the front cooler and oil tank off of a 911, as we speak......and I'm definitely going to need to move up to some more leverage.....

regards,
al

[theiceman]

if i remember correctly, you dremmel that nut off and you are now into a specialty elephant racing nut to fix it, or is the thinking dremmel the nut and throw the whole line away ?

[proporsche]

i`m surprised that nobody uses 2 hammer technique ..work well;-) mainly on the thermostat line nuts..

Ivan

[pkabush]

Originally Posted by proporsche

i`m surprised that nobody uses 2 hammer technique ..work well;-) mainly on the thermostat line nuts..

Ivan

So, to clarify, you use the big hammer as a dolly on the back of the nut while hitting the front of the nut ? If so, I assume this shocks it loose ?

[proporsche]

Originally Posted by pkabush

So, to clarify, you use the big hammer as a dolly on the back of the nut while hitting the front of the nut ? If so, I assume this shocks it loose ?

yes, that is correct that was the word i was looking for;-) DOLLY..thanx

ivan

[boyt911sc]

I use both heat and hammers methods to remove this big and stubborn 36-mm nut with ease. I weigh 137 lbs. soaked and wet plus a herniated disc and still able to remove them. A 3-feet extension pipe attached to a wrench does this job easily. Do not use brutal force to avoid damaging the oil tank.

If it does not come off easily, stop what you are doing and repeat. Heat cycle and use your hammers to break the adhesion between the nut and the oil tank. Apply penetration oil and heat again. Apply moderate force and it would come off.

Tony

[David Inc.]

Yeah with the big nuts on the oil line a big crescent with hammers has always been best for me. So long as the wrench has a good grip that hammer hit can break it loose pretty easily. I was struggling with one a couple of days ago, straining myself, then just smacked it with a hammer and pop, off it came.

[pkabush]

Originally Posted by proporsche

yes, that is correct that was the word i was looking for;-) DOLLY..thanx

ivan

OK, that’s what I thought. Thanks

[Balisong]

Thanks all. Here’s what worked.
Torch-no
Torch-no
Torch-no
Dremmel a slot-no
Hammer flat head screwdriver into slot-no
Torch slot-yes!

[grb008]

just did this with the oil cooler lines, same thing. Dremel a slot and then heat it. Use my big wrench and it turned right off. Then I got to put 100 PSI of air in the line and remove the crushed oil line from the PO. Saved some cash fixing the line.

[mike sampsel]

Originally Posted by al lkosmal

Ain't that the truth......working on getting the front cooler and oil tank off of a 911, as we speak......and I'm definitely going to need to move up to some more leverage.....

regards,
al

Hi Al,

Old thread, maybe OBE.

But,

What works for me is a crows-foot wrench and 24 inch breaker bar. This is when I'm on my back or on knees (no hoist). The tank and crossover nuts are a breeze this way. A tad more leverage with the crows-foot than the 24" crescent BTW with lengthened lever arm of the crowsfoot center. I apply anti-sieze to the line nuts when I install them on the both ends (thermo and tank tec.) with no leaks yet. Oh and for the thermo nuts I dremeled a line and added PTBlaster in the cut. and then they came off so easy.

How this works for the front cooler nuts due to space, I do not know as I hired a pro to add an oil cooler.

Cheers