Trouble with the Classic Retrofit fuse panel

[Franks89-911]

Upgrading the fuse panel on my 89 carrera targa. Using the Classic Retrofit panel offered by our host. https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/911FPR.htm?pn=911-FPR&bc=c&SVSVSI=0603

Some of these wires will absolutely not fit into the new fuse panel holes.

Anyone else having this issue? What's your solution?

TIA

[Showdown]

You can drill out the block on the panel to fit the wires. Alternatively you might be able to put a ferrule on the ends. I had to do both, particularly where multiple wires share the same bus drilling was necessary, but just a tiny bit.

[DetailDivision]

Hoping to see some more info about this, I delayed my install after starting it this spring...

[shoooo32]

I used the Adapt Motorsports blade fuse panel. The holes were huge - no ferrules necessary.

[timmy2]

Hole size is same as original. You can try to reshape the previously distorted wire ends to fit using some needle nose pliers, or replace ferrules. Patience and persistence will get it done.

[Joesmallwood]

I just installed mine a few weeks ago and had no issues. I will say that I had to reshape a few of the wire ferrules to get them to fit, but that was not a real challenge.

[mikesarge]

I put the adapt panel in the front of my 1980 SC and it was maybe the easiest upgrade I've made to this car- the holes were bigger than those on my original panel, and all of the wires almost quite literally fell into place when I mocked it up.

I don't know about the differences between 1980 and 1989 wiring though!

[winglesss]

Decided against swapping the fuses on my 1986 911 from the old Bosch GBC fuses to the new ATO blade fuses.

An examination of my fuse panel revealed that the fuse amperage was wrong, not matching the specification, on about half of the fuses.

Many had fuses w/ lower amperage ratings than specified. The exposed metal in those instances has a curved / distorted shape.

A wholesale swap of all the fuses to brand new ceramic body (not plastic) German Flosser brass element fuses will be implemented in the near future. All of the parts are on order.

[LIRS6]

Originally Posted by winglesss

A wholesale swap of all the fuses to brand new ceramic body (not plastic) German Flosser brass element fuses will be implemented in the near future. All of the parts are on order.

Where did you source them?

Jason

[winglesss]

Originally Posted by LIRS6

Where did you source them?

The parts were purchased on eBay. Search for ceramic and GBC.

My hope was for 5 each spares on 25A, 16A, 8A and 5A, so I got three 5 packs of 25A, two 5 packs of both 16A and 5A, but the only option was 20 pieces on the 8A, so I now have plenty of spares on that size.

One nice thing on the 20 pack of 8A was that it included two small boxes for spares.

My tool kit is complete, but was missing the little spare fuse pack, now that's all set.

All the fuses have been swapped out. The images show new in the front fuse panel and old in the rear. I also need to check out the rear wiring to see why there is apparent overheat insulation damage.

[manbridge 74]

Originally Posted by winglesss

The parts were purchased on eBay. Search for ceramic and GBC.

My hope was for 5 each spares on 25A, 16A, 8A and 5A, so I got three 5 packs of 25A, two 5 packs of both 16A and 5A, but the only option was 20 pieces on the 8A, so I now have plenty of spares on that size.

One nice thing on the 20 pack of 8A was that it included two small boxes for spares.

My tool kit is complete, but was missing the little spare fuse pack, now that's all set.

All the fuses have been swapped out. The images show new in the front fuse panel and old in the rear. I also need to check out the rear wiring to see why there is apparent overheat insulation damage.

Looks great. No “upgrade” needed with that….

[winglesss]

Originally Posted by manbridge 74

Looks great. No “upgrade” needed with that….

Thanks much.

The only upgrade is a custom headlight relay kit, similar to this JWEST Engineering kit, except mine will use round relays / round relay sockets, populated in the two existing empty relay socket holes.

That JWEST kit is fine, except I didn't like how the instructions say to grab power from the battery terminal. I also didn't like the visual appearance of a pair of relays mounted next to the fuse block.

The JWEST kit cost is MUCH better than my parts, so identical upgrade at a significant cost savings.

My parts are on order, just waiting for some other parts to arrive before being sent to me.

Will be installed soon w/ info to follow.

[RSTarga]

Where are you planning to draw power from? Stern recommends either directly from the Alternator output or the battery terminal either with fused circuit.

[Jonny H]

Originally Posted by winglesss

Decided against swapping the fuses on my 1986 911 from the old Bosch GBC fuses to the new ATO blade fuses.

An examination of my fuse panel revealed that the fuse amperage was wrong, not matching the specification, on about half of the fuses.

Many had fuses w/ lower amperage ratings than specified. The exposed metal in those instances has a curved / distorted shape.

A wholesale swap of all the fuses to brand new ceramic body (not plastic) German Flosser brass element fuses will be implemented in the near future. All of the parts are on order.

Having the correct fuses is obviously vital and yes the ceramic fuses are better than the plastic ones. That is not, however, the whole story with the original Porsche fuse holders...

On the back of each fuse block, there is a brass 'bus bar' which is joined to each fuse but a brass rivet. Over time, these rivets 'relax' and fail to make proper contact with the fuse holder sprung part. This heats up, causing the (plastic) fuses to melt but a tell tale is that the block/holder itself is hot.

It isn't always the fuses or the sprung fuse contact that is the problem!

[PeteKz]

If you are restoring the old fuse block, consider putting a spot of solder into those riveted connections.