Partial engine drop

[joe912/62]

I want to do a partial engine drop for the first time to be able to remove the top cover of the oil cooler. It seems to be leaking from the O- ring and now that I have the heat exchangers off I have good access to it. I should have done it last spring when I had the CIS out. Besides undoing the transmission coupler bolt is there anything else to undo?
Thanks again for all the great help.

[rwest]

Here’s the Pelican tech article:

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_partial_engine_drop/911_partial_engine_drop.htm

[joe912/62]

Thanks, has anyone tried to use JB weld in that area?

[David Inc.]

JB weld for what?

[mikesarge]

Originally Posted by David Inc.

JB weld for what?

I'm guessing OP is referencing this:

[joe912/62]

Can I drain the oil since I haven't run the car for a week now? I don't have my heat exchangers on and catalytic converter off also.

[911obgyn]

I have used jb weld there make sure its clean and scuffed. Partial drop on 3.2 had to re weld engine crossbar because it cracked when removing motor mount bolts rusty and seized.

[rwest]

Originally Posted by joe912/62

Can I drain the oil since I haven't run the car for a week now? I don't have my heat exchangers on and catalytic converter off also.

Yes, warm is usually suggested because it flows easier getting more out and with impurities suspended, but you’ll be fine.

[joe912/62]

Does it have to be repaired off the engine? Would I have access to the top bolts if I remove the tin?

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by joe912/62

Does it have to be repaired off the engine? Would I have access to the top bolts if I remove the tin?

Joe,

I read your posts and it is not clear to me what is your goal or objective. Are you trying to fix an oil from where? From the oil pressure switch? Thermostat? Or oil cooler? To remove the fiberglas cover over the oil cooler, you need to access the 4 bolts (6-mm) from the top or back side. And the rear engine tin attached to the cooler has to come off. Otherwise, you can not get the Fiberglas cover to slide out even with the 4 bolts removed.

I think it is about time for you to learn how to do a full engine drop. For all the trouble and time you already spent working underneath your car doing the exhaust studs and this oil leak repair, having your motor on an engine stand will be much easier and fun. If you account for the time you already spent plus more time to come, it is wise and prudent to get that motor out and do the job sitting on a rolling chair than squatting and bending over. Whatever you do, stay SAFE and have fun.

Tony

[joe912/62]

I did the oil pressure switch and thermostat when I removed the CIS unit early spring. Should have done it then when I had the cover off but didn't.

[David Inc.]

Done what???

You only talked about an o-ring and then start mentioning JB weld.

[joe912/62]

I did the triangle of death when I had the CIS out

[David Inc.]

No what is it now you are trying to do? Replace the o-rings for the oil cooler or JB weld the stress crack in the case under the oil cooler?

[mike sampsel]

make sure you get the area very clean with a wire brush and then some acetone. Apply the JB weld to the case defect. Then put duct tape on top until the JB drys.

Duct tape keeps it in place (a tip from John Walker). You need to drain the oil to be sure there will be none when you apply the weld, doing it cold will be fine. Without the heat exchangers is good for you too as you can get the wire brush (rotory with a drill or dremel) in place. I recommend raising the passenger side slightly higher after the oil drain. Will help to keep the JB weld in place.

Wire brush away to get a clean, clean surface to apply the weld.

Cheers

[mike sampsel]

Originally Posted by joe912/62

I want to do a partial engine drop for the first time to be able to remove the top cover of the oil cooler. It seems to be leaking from the O- ring and now that I have the heat exchangers off I have good access to it. I should have done it last spring when I had the CIS out. Besides undoing the transmission coupler bolt is there anything else to undo?
Thanks again for all the great help.

I doubt it is leaking from the o-rings at the cooler. Likely leaking from the case defect though. I think you can get at the nuts to enough of the cooler shroud without engine removal, (removal of 4,5,,6 side engine tin is desired) then you can lift the shroud (pry it up) to get at the cooler nuts, to remove the same.

Disconnect the wire to the CDI, with the coupler disconnected you are probably okay, I just do not like risking the stretching of the plug to the CDI wires. The next thing to undo might be the power brake vacuum hose. If you are careful with the drop you need not disconect anything. The coupler bent would be not good so I always disconnect the shift coupler. You can drop the engine a few inches with worry of the oil hoses, just do not let it get away from you as you can stretch the side oil line hoses and the breather ones. If you are cautious type removal of the oil hoses up top is a good idea (both which attach to the tank). I have not disconnected fuel lines for a partial drop, yet.

[joe912/62]

I'm sure this cooler has never been taken out to do that service

[joe912/62]

So the area to apply JB weld would be on the case and not the cooler correct?

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by joe912/62

So the area to apply JB weld would be on the case and not the cooler correct?

Joe,

Where on the case do you need to put JB WELD? Do you have any picture of this problem? Think twice before you apply JB WELD on your crankcase. You probably doing a band-aid fix to your problem. Good luck.

Tony

[wazzz]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

Joe,

Where on the case do you need to put JB WELD? Do you have any picture of this problem? Think twice before you apply JB WELD on your crankcase. You probably doing a band-aid fix to your problem. Good luck.

Tony

See technical bulletin posted above. It is a very common repair and also very efficient.
Applied it 5 years ago and I now have a clean engine underside. Thanks to Ivan who posted the above mentioned bulletin on the French board in 2018.