Condenser Blower "Fan" Replacement?

[Vincent Hill]

I pulled out my Condenser Blower Motor & Fan only to see that they were Locked up totally! I ordered the Bosh Motor from our Host and then tried to remove the Fan Basket. I sprayed it with the PB Blaster, Heated it with the Torch, Tapped it with a Punch and tried again with the ALLen Wrench and the Set screw would not move. My last plan is to "Drill" out the set screw and then pull the motor apart and cut off the shaft.

Then using a Deep Socket on one side & Punch on the other Drive out the Shaft. My plan is then to JB Weld this fan on the New Shaft.

My questions are, #1, is there any place I can buy a new Fan?? #2, has anyone got any suggestions for me to do this better or easier??

[JFairman]

i wouldn't bother with a pathetic origonal fan motor unless it was almost free.

you can buy an ugraded more powerful faster running fan motor that blows around 30% more air from griffiths. it is made to fit the upper half of your evaporator box and there is a little modification work to mount it.
911/930 Kuehl Wirbelsturm Evap Blower Motor 70-85 911 evaporator blower motor, 930 evaporator blower motor, 901-624-901-00, 90162490100, 901 624 901 00, 901.624.901.00 [911930KuehlWirbelsturmMotor] : Griffiths Technical Inc

that motor won't fit in the top half of an '86-'89 evaporator box but you can eventually find those used or save alot of time and grief and buy one from griffiths with the upgrade motor already installed.
911/930 Kuehl Wirbelsturm Evap Box Assy. 86-89 911 evaporator blower motor, 930 evaporator blower motor, 901-624-901-00, 90162490100, 901 624 901 00, 901.624.901.00 [911930KuehlWirbelsturmBox86plus] : Griffiths Technical Inc

try not to bend the squirrel cage fan when removing it from the old motor shaft.

[Vincent Hill]

Originally Posted by JFairman

i wouldn't bother with a pathetic origonal fan motor unless it was almost free.

you can buy an ugraded more powerful faster running fan motor that blows around 30% more air from griffiths. it is made to fit the upper half of your evaporator box and there is a little modification work to mount it.
911/930 Kuehl Wirbelsturm Evap Blower Motor 70-85 911 evaporator blower motor, 930 evaporator blower motor, 901-624-901-00, 90162490100, 901 624 901 00, 901.624.901.00 [911930KuehlWirbelsturmMotor] : Griffiths Technical Inc

that motor won't fit in the top half of an '86-'89 evaporator box but you can eventually find those used or save alot of time and grief and buy one from griffiths with the upgrade motor already installed.
911/930 Kuehl Wirbelsturm Evap Box Assy. 86-89 911 evaporator blower motor, 930 evaporator blower motor, 901-624-901-00, 90162490100, 901 624 901 00, 901.624.901.00 [911930KuehlWirbelsturmBox86plus] : Griffiths Technical Inc

try not to bend the squirrel cage fan when removing it from the old motor shaft.

Totally Agree with being Delicate with the "Squirrel Cage Fan".

I think we are talking Apples and Grapes. I am trying to fix the "Condenser Blower Motor" that sits at the front of the car in front of the Spare by the Battery (Grapes) not the huge Evaporator Motor that Blows the air into the Cabin (Apples). OR, Are you saying to use this Large Motor over the Condenser? I do not think there is anywhere near enough room and it would not fit the Housing.

[JFairman]

oops, brain fade while reading your post.

yeah, i've taken that front condensor fan apart and replaced the melted motor with a good used one. i saved the squirrel cage fan so i have a spare one.
that front condensor fan doesn't have a fuse, only a relay so it's a real good idea to put an inline fuse in it's pigtail wire harness.

i've heard of 911's burning down because that fan motor siezed got hot, melted and started a plastic fire right there in front of the gas tank.

[Jesse16]

Just thinking of this myself. Do you know the size fuse that should be used on this fan ? I'm getting ready to take a 2500 mile cruise and guessing the AC will be on a great deal of that time.

[Vincent Hill]

Originally Posted by JFairman

oops, brain fade while reading your post.

yeah, i've taken that front condensor fan apart and replaced the melted motor with a good used one. i saved the squirrel cage fan so i have a spare one.
that front condensor fan doesn't have a fuse, only a relay so it's a real good idea to put an inline fuse in it's pigtail wire harness.

i've heard of 911's burning down because that fan motor siezed got hot, melted and started a plastic fire right there in front of the gas tank.

AMEN on the Fuse! I just read that when I did the search and trust me, that motor was FRIED! I appreciate the Offer and will know tomorrow if I can get this done or not! How ever you got your off U done good!

[JFairman]

I'd call Charlie at Griffiths and ask what amperage fuse he would use.
I think i used a 10-15 amp fast fuse when I installed one there.
You can hook up an ammeter in series with the fan at the spade terminal plug in the wire going to the fan, see what it draws when running and use a fast blo fuse that is a little higher than that and carry spares.

When I took the fan off the motor shaft the motor was toast. I loosened the little allen grub screw that locks it onto the shaft and then used needle noze vise grips clamped onto the shaft to keep it from turning while twisting and pulling on the fan to get it off the shaft.
It was stuck on there pretty good but twisted off with some penetrating oil on the shaft.

[DRACO A5OG]

No need to buy a new fan. Liken to a bicycle wheel, just true it. Lube then you are done.

[Flat Six]

Originally Posted by Jesse16

Just thinking of this myself. Do you know the size fuse that should be used on this fan ? I'm getting ready to take a 2500 mile cruise and guessing the AC will be on a great deal of that time.

8A, per this thread:

Added fuses & relays.

HTH

[gregwils]

There is either a M3 or M4 set screw in the squirrel fan to hold it to the shaft. I think it may have originally had an allen. There is a small hole in one of the squirrel fan blades to allow an allen wrench to be inserted and loose the set screw. Once the motor is out of the fan case, it's not too difficult to remove and replace the set screw.

I think I used a 7.5 amp in-line fuse.

[brads911sc]

you used to be able to buy this entire assembly from our host... i dont see it now... may want to call them. when i got mine everything was new...

[Vincent Hill]

WOW! Thanks everyone! A Fast Fuse? New to me (I understand the Theory).

The deed is done! This Morning I first Tapped on the Set Screw and the allen wrench stripped the opening. I then cut out the Rotor from the Motor and then Cut off the SHaft. Then with a small Dremmel cut off wheel I cut away the Brackets. I then Drilled out the screw and set the inside of the basket center on a deep set socket. Using a Punch I knocked out the remainder of the fan.

I did not mess up the alignment and then painted the fan basket. Tonight I will use JB Weld to glue on the Fan to the new Motor and set it all in place to make sure it is positioned correctly. Put everything back together and Install. (Just in time for the Heat wave in Washington DC)

I really like the idea of hooking up an AMp Meter inline to see the Current draw. I have a plug that I can hook directly to the Battery and check it this way. In my mind I was going to use a 10 amp fuse and now see the recomendation is 8 AMPs. EIther way I will be a LOT safer with a fuse in line. I hope this thread gets others to install the fuse before it is too late. Thank you everyone I really did not know the fuse and a few other things were even a Consideration and now I may have saved myself some real trouble!

[brads911sc]

I would use a screw to attach the fan. JB Weld could throw it out of balance and it will vibrate. When I did mine before I just replaced the entire assembly, i tapped it slightly bigger and got a new screw from a hardware store. worked fine.

[Mitch Leland]

Vincent Hill,

JB Weld is great stuff, but I don't think it's going to work on this application... The motor shaft is very slick and a small diameter, the fan basket is a larger diameter so you have some torque involved, you need a mechanical attachment.

WAIT... I've re-read your post and can't figure out what you've done... If you now don't have a center arbor on the fan basket to mount to the motor how do you know the fan is centered and balanced? I'm confused... Where's the pictures?

Anyway you should use a 7.5 A inline GM fuse.

[JFairman]

I have a good squirrel cage fan with intact allen grub screw and balancing clip you can see at 3 o-clock I'll sell if you need one.

Good to know the fuse for that motor should be 7.5amps.
I looked to see what I had put in the glass tube fuse holder I'm using and it was higher. Looked through a collection of old glass buss fuses I have and found a 250volt 7amp single thin wire fuse and put that in there. Also found a 7amp 32 volt and 15amp 250 volt fuse to keep in the glove box.

I don't know if being a 250volt 7amp fuse if that changes the amperage rating at 12-13.5 volts. Anybody know? I guess a google search would eventually answer that.

A fast fuse I mentioned earlier is a regular single thin wire that blows quickly and a slow blow fuse will sit and cook for a couple seconds before blowing. Old Fender tube guitar amps used them. These are old technology glass tube fuses and I don't know if they still make them like that.

pic of the fan...

[Vincent Hill]

Originally Posted by Mitch Leland

Vincent Hill,

JB Weld is great stuff, but I don't think it's going to work on this application... The motor shaft is very slick and a small diameter, the fan basket is a larger diameter so you have some torque involved, you need a mechanical attachment.

WAIT... I've re-read your post and can't figure out what you've done... If you now don't have a center arbor on the fan basket to mount to the motor how do you know the fan is centered and balanced? I'm confused... Where's the pictures?

Anyway you should use a 7.5 A inline GM fuse.

This is exactly what I have NOW! I guess the "Center Arbor"is the Raised part in the middle of the fan with the Screw. Mine is now the same minus the screw. I thought about tapping the mount but I do not think the Tap for the small size I need will be long enough to reach through the basket or me have enough room to turn the tap with a pair of Plyers.

Yes the shaft may be slippery but I can sand it a little and I plan to glue over the end and I think I will be in Good balance and If I am not, I can move the weights around a few times and run the motor until there is no Vibration.

If this does not work I can THEN consider getting a used basket. What do I have to lose by not trying this first?

[Mitch Leland]

I see your problem now.

Have you tried soaking the allen head set screw with a good penetrant, i.e. Knockem Loose? Soak it over night...then use an "easy out"? You could saw out the one vane in front of the set screw top and bottom, tap out the remaining material, then silver solder the vane back in place. Maybe the weight of the silver solder would be a trade off for the folded tabs. However for all that nonsense you might be better off looking for a used basket because I don't think your JB Weld idea is either practical or workable. What happens if it works and you want to take it apart later? If you don't care you might be better off with a permanent "Loc-tite" product.

[brads911sc]

I doubt you will get the balance correct with JB weld. Sorry. I dont see it. Its going to vibrate...

[Vincent Hill]

Originally Posted by Mitch Leland

I see your problem now.

Have you tried soaking the allen head set screw with a good penetrant, i.e. Knockem Lose? Soak it over night...then use an "easy out"? You could saw out the one vane in front of the set screw top and bottom, tap out the remaining material, then silver solder the vane back in place. Maybe the weight of the silver solder would be a trade off for the folded tabs. However for all that nonsense you might be better off looking for a used basket because I don't think your JB Weld idea is either practical or workable. What happens if it works and you want to take it apart later? If you don't care you might be better off with a permanent "Loc-tite" product.

You have talked and communicated. The best Penetrant I have found is PB Blaster. I used it then heated up the part and used it and then soaked it over night and then tried again. The end came when I THOUGHT I had broken it loose only to find that I had stripped the inside of the Screw.

I "Also" thought, Suppose I need to remove the basket? Dealing with the Gear Shift levers I found that the little Propane Torch will heat the Glue enough that it will dry and Crack and flake up then easily come apart.

I just got the Motor a few minutes ago. The deal for $3 for 3 day shipping is great because I got mine in 2 days from Pelican.

I will sand the end of the shaft (about the last 1/2 inch which will all be under glue). The only thing I want to do is make sure the glue is hard and dry and the fan is not going to come off. SO as soon as I get home I will sand with some 240 grit and mix up the glue and coat the fan (Using a round chop stick) and the shaft and put it together and clean up everything. I plan to assemble everything and set it in the car tonight (not Installed) because a Black car in 100 degree heat will really cure the glue BETTER than inside with AC.

Tomorrow I will make sure it is all working and tight and run the 5 screws in and hook it up! then turn on the AC.

Question? I have seen several post on other threads where some say the key on with the AC and some say Running with the AC on! Which is it or both? I am going to use a 10 amp fusefor a while and then a 7.5. I do not want to blow a fuse just because of the heat.

[Vincent Hill]

DONE DEAL!! I sanded the shaft end and coated both pieces. I had to press fit the basket on to the shaft. It was a clean press fit and I cleaned up the JB WELD and tweaked the basket to run straight.

SMOOTH AS A BABIES ASS!! I can hear the fan run but not feel it run.

Also thanks for the difference between slow & fast fuse. I have an inline fuse wire that uses the 2 prong GM style fuse. Good cold AC totally needed in this 100 degree heat wave.