Frunk
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1723307011.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1723307011.jpg

That looks sharp.....

Update:

So my 2.7 case is back from the machine shop. Pinned, line bored, bypass, and a few other original issues. I have purchased a new set of pistons and cylinders. I went with a RS style flat top to gain a bit of room (valves) so I'll have a better cam selection available. New PMO carbs. I had the head work done locally and sent the guy my intake to see if he could match them up to my heads. Things are moving along...... slowly.

I feel I've made smart, frugal decisions with this motor but the cost is still going to be in the $35K range.
Costs add up fast. New Carbs, Cams, Pistons, Cylinders, Intake, Heads, Case Work, Labor, Coatings.

Tell me about it! Case machining alone just about killed me...

Wheels back from Fuch Restoration:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1727557271.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1727557271.jpg

Decided on Pirelli 195/65/15 tires.

Has anyone utilized a spacer with 15x6 Fuchs ? Maybe push the rear wheel out a bit?

If anyone is interested in a brand new set of 16x7 Group 4 Wheels, Style LMZ
ET 23.3 . Please PM me. The tires have zero miles.
Conti Extreme Contact DW06 Plus. 205/55/16.
I'll make you a fantastic deal on these. Cheap.

Finally my heads are moving forward.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1728766968.jpg


Cams are here.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1728766968.jpg

35k, yikes! What cams did you go with?

^
Yikes is right. S cams.

Case work
Shipping
New intake
New PMO's
Filters
Crank polishing
Head work
Oil pump serviced
CSF oil cooler.
New Rods
New Pistons & Jugs
New bearings
Bolts
New valve covers
Coatings
New Fan
Alternator
I am sure I am forgetting something.

I bet this will be over 35K closer to 40K

Re the 15x6 Fuchs and spacers (I'm surprised Bill V didn't post a bunch of tables of wheel and tire fitments already;) ). The 15x6 have an offset of 36mm, so they are very close to the same wheel outside edge as the 16x7's with ET23.3. IME, it will depend more on the specific tires you want to run than the width and offset of the wheels. I tried spacers on my 1973T in the past with 15" wheels, but didn't think they were worth the trouble. You probably won't be able to use more than a 1/4" spacer on a narrow body car. But, mount the wheels and tires and jack up the right front corner good and high, to compress the left rear wheel. Then stick your fingers or popsicle sticks up there to see how much clearance you have. FYI, on most of the early cars I have seen, the left rear fender is a little bit closer than the right rear fender, so that's where I have rubbed tires first. That's why I suggest compressing the left rear wheel. .

It is looking good

^

PeteKz..... Thank you. Yeah I got some figuring out to do but need to get my motor finished and back in the car so I can establish a ride height.

^
Thank you HRogue.

S cams are pretty much, all top end, as you most likely know. Have you thought about solex cams, it's what I run, best of all worlds. Great mid-range, lose a tad bit of top end compared to S. More Street friendly.

^
tobluforu....
I seemed to have talked this topic to death with a lot of folks I respect, Ed Mayo and Chris Almod to name two. Considering my type of spirted driving, the head work I am having done, the new carbs, headers ect., it was decided to go in the S cam direction with some tweeking done to those cams. I don't speak "CAM" but Mr. Mayo does and he had these made for this engine. I relied heavily on his 60 years of experience. I appreciate your input greatly.

As you increase displacement, S cams become less and less peaky.
On a 2.7RS spec motor for instance, they work fine even at lower RPM's.
On a 3 or 3.2 liter, S cams are golden.

^
Fantastic insite skinnerd. This motor was designed to replicate a 2.7RS.

Mod-S cams even better with wider LSA

Ed is like The Wolf in Pulp Fiction…”that’s all you had to say…”

Beautiful work...

^
Thank you fanaudical.