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What MFI setup for a 2.7 RS clone with E cams

I am buying this engine from Unclezak and I am looking for recommendations on how best to setup the MFI: Carrera RS 'CLONE' engine - 2.7L , 220HP , Being sold in longblock form. 7R' reinforced case , timeserted ( no pulled head studs ) - oil bypass modification performed .... Later larger oil pump installed , NEW bearings , chains , ramps , gaskets and seals .... JE 10.3:1 pistons were installed with perfect Nikasil cylinders. E cams were used on this engine but I can substitute more agressive cams for free. HEADS rebuilt with new guides , 3 angle valve job , 37mm intake ports , 36mm exhaust.

I have a 69 2.0 E with a 73 S pump. I will use this engine for daily driving. Is there a recommended "E" MFI 2.7 setup (Bruce mentions E cams with carbs but not MFI) that would give good performance or should I go for the full RS spec (S cams, bore my mag stacks and RS space cam). This car never sees track use but lots of 4000 to redline sprints on the street.

Thanks for any and all advice.

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Old 06-16-2003, 03:52 AM
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Rich, is this the engine from the seller in Oregon that someone suggeested last week? If so, he really caught my attention too.

I may be wrong here, but I think the displacment will force serious TB rework, new stacks and the pump to be recalibrated... A set of used Webers / PMO sound good to me for this application.
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Old 06-16-2003, 04:01 AM
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Halms right but I'd still try and go with the MFI since you have the magnesium stacks and a 73 pump since both are the desirable pump and stacks for hotrod MFI engines.
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Old 06-16-2003, 04:19 AM
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Yes, halm it is that engine. I have exchanged a few emails with Zak Mosieur over the last year about different engines but this seemed like a good deal if I can get it to work with my MFI setup, modified or not. I know that the TBs and the stacks will need to be bored out and/or replaced and that the MFI pump will need some work as well. Webers do not interest me just from a fuel economy perspective. The question is, is there a street set up somewhat milder than the full RS package that I can achieve with E cams, maybe S TBs and intakes and an E or S space cam (which I may already have). Is there more to recalibrating the pump than just replacing the space cam?
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Old 06-16-2003, 05:51 AM
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I think the Space cam is the "brain" of the MFI pump and that's all that's replaced other than wear items.

I've heard that E cams make a great street engine and the 2.7 will make great torque down low when it's off cam.
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Old 06-16-2003, 06:05 AM
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Rich, I think we need a MFI "expert" at this point. You have raised a lot of questions for which I have only guesses, no real answers. If P-Thomas does not respond to this thread today, I will PM you with his phone number. Outside of professional wrenches, he is clearly the best resource we have.
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Old 06-16-2003, 06:24 AM
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I have a 72 911T. I installed rs 2.7 p\c's w\E cams. I brought pump to Gus at PFI. He installed the right space cam, rebuilt pump, tested inj, and away I went. Did he just install a 'E' space cam? I have no idea, but the car has run great for the past 10 years. Is it fast-No!. Is it quick-yep! The car is a great around town car and hauls ass up to about 6500 rpm. 'S' Cams will make the car much faster top end wise, but my setup will pull it to a certain speed and then an 'S' car will pull away. So in other words, my setup will be quicker, but not faster. If that makes any sense this early in the morn.
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Old 06-16-2003, 08:26 AM
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No offense... but a full RS set-up is a "street" set-up. It does not need to be "milder" to be Ok for the street.

You need the RS space cam, S cams, and the larger bores. The finished product is incredible. Great throttle response, loads of torque and high RPM horses. My engine is really easy to drive around town, and when I "get on it," it responds like few engines could.

If you are this close already to a true RS engine, I'd go the extra distance and complete it.

Having driven a 2.7RS (which used to be a 2.4E), I just wouldn't waste my time with the E cams. The additional displacement of the 2.7, transforms this engine. It's much different than a 2.4S believe it or not.

IMO of course. Good luck on whatever you decide.
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Old 06-16-2003, 08:31 AM
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Too Blue,

So I assume that you have your original T heads, distributor and exhaust? I was concerned that if everything wasn't matched perfectly the thing wouldn't even run but it looks like compromise is possible.
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Old 06-16-2003, 09:05 AM
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skinnerd,

How does the power and performance compare to the 3.2?
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Old 06-16-2003, 09:07 AM
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To me, they are very similar. Both are approx. 240-245hp at the crank. The 3.2 might have a bit more low end, the 2.7 pulls harder at the top. Both engines in the same car were putting down very similar times at PIR (Portland International Raceway).
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Old 06-16-2003, 09:22 AM
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I agree with Doug Skinner, 2.7 RS MFI with S cams is the way to go - very streetable yet fast. Just drove mine yesterday - you will be missing out on part of what makes this engine so special if you go to E cams. If you can, drive both and punch it at 4,000 rpm. It does not have the grunt of a 3.2, but a 3.2 does not have the same throttle response or the 5 to 7K windup unless you do some serious mods. A 2.7RS is faster than a stock US 3.2 Carrera.
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Old 06-16-2003, 09:26 AM
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convinced. Thanks for the feedback. Anyone have an RS space cam and/or a set of S intakes laying around before I call Gus and Matt Blatt?
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Old 06-16-2003, 09:28 AM
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Rich,
The 2.4S and 2.7RS used the same plastic intake stacks and throttle bodies. As for the pump, i have an original RS pump but would have to make some calls before i would consider selling it. I am emailing a friend who might have a set of 73S stacks and he might even buy your mag stacks if you are interested. Feel free to email me directly.

You can talk to Hanz at H&R in new york about pumps also, he usually is not as backed up as Gus and he is closer.

Paul
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Old 06-16-2003, 02:18 PM
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Rich,
My friend has a set of 73S plastic stacks and would be willing to work some kind of trade for your mag ones if you are interested. He does not have a set of throttle bodies though, so you'll deffinately be calling Matt. Decide ASAP cause from what i understand Eurometrix is very backed up. Let me know about the stacks.

Paul
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Old 06-17-2003, 05:03 AM
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Paul and others. I located a set of rebuilt TBs and magnesium stacks that have been bored out and rebuilt to S spec. $600 plus shipping for both from CA. What do you think?
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Old 06-17-2003, 10:32 AM
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That sounds like a hell of a deal. I would want close-up pics with calipers showing the bore diameter. If you get those, you can come over and i'll show you how to make K&N watershields work. It takes a little dremel work but no biggie. If you get those, i can still sell the others.

Paul
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Old 06-17-2003, 11:10 AM
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I ordered them with the understanding that they can be returned if they aren't right but a PP board member referred me to them and they are his parts. Eurometrix did the rebuild and the bore out.

So here is where I'm at - $4900 for a rebuilt 2.7 RS clone engine with S cams, instead of E and the other features mentioned above. This includes tin, a 2.7 distributor, carrera tensioners and a complete euro 34 row external oil cooler setup. $600 for S TBs and intakes. I'm buying a 2 in 2 out Dansk stainless exhaust for $350 from another Pelican and I will use my other existing parts including HEs, flywheel, clutch, etc. All I need is an RS space cam. Looks like a complete 2.7 rs for around $6500 - $7000 when all is said and done and the engine has a warranty. I haven't pulled the trigger to purchase the engine yet but I need to make a decision today. What do you guys think?
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Last edited by RichMason; 06-17-2003 at 11:31 AM..
Old 06-17-2003, 11:29 AM
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Sounds like a terrific deal. When I talked with OTTO a few months ago, he quoted me $7-9K to rebuild my 2.2 and $13k for a RS clone. Go for it!
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Old 06-17-2003, 11:39 AM
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I would do it. Call Hanz and see about a pump, if i remember right you are looking at about $2000. That would be basically a brand new pump from his core. He will remove the stop solenoid and offer to remove the thermostat and put in an adjustment if you want to run headers.

Paul

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Old 06-17-2003, 11:46 AM
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