Snap! Pow! Vroom!!! Clunk,clunk,clunk... gosh, now what!?!?!?

[Wayne 962]

Blast from the past. When I replied 17 years ago, I was 31 and had a bunch more hair!

-Wayne

[RSBob]

What’s the torque setting for CV bolts? Will have the car in the air Weds.

[dannobee]

33 lb ft for the 8mm bolts, 60 lb ft for the 10mm bolts.

[Adam Reed]

I want to put a shout out for Stage 8 locking fasteners.
https://www.stage8.com

Their locking system for the Lobros is exceptional.
I had an outer CV joint on my 912 break loose a few years ago as I pulled out from a stop sign.
Yeah I know, all of that 912 massive torque!
Well, I do have a 2.2 liter Type 4 motor in the car, and it's pretty torquey.
Whatever.
Luckily it happened close to home.
The flailing axle wrecked a parking brake bracket, but everything else was OK,
and it all bolted back together just fine.

Last Fall I had the transmission out for some work, and when it went back in, so did the Stage 8 bolts that I'd been saving on a shelf in the garage. It's an easy installation. The only tool needed is a pair of circlip pliers that will handle the tiny circlips that come in the kit.

During the learning process, I wrecked quite a few circlips, and a number also took wing and disappeared across the garage. I called Stage 8, and told the gent who answered the phone about my problem. He laughed, and told me that even expert mechanics have the same problem the first time they do the job, and he sent me a generous bag of circlips at no charge.

I can't recommend this approach highly enough. Considering how many of us have shared similar stories in this thread, the minimal cost of the kit seems cheap insurance!

cheers
Adam912.Out.
'66 912, 495K miles, lightweight and 2.2L T4 power. Woo Hoo!

[RSBob]

Originally Posted by dannobee

33 lb ft for the 8mm bolts, 60 lb ft for the 10mm bolts.

Thank you sir!

[ClickClickBoom]

Originally Posted by Adam Reed

I want to put a shout out for Stage 8 locking fasteners.
https://www.stage8.com

Their locking system for the Lobros is exceptional.
I had an outer CV joint on my 912 break loose a few years ago as I pulled out from a stop sign.
Yeah I know, all of that 912 massive torque!
Well, I do have a 2.2 liter Type 4 motor in the car, and it's pretty torquey.
Whatever.
Luckily it happened close to home.
The flailing axle wrecked a parking brake bracket, but everything else was OK,
and it all bolted back together just fine.

Last Fall I had the transmission out for some work, and when it went back in, so did the Stage 8 bolts that I'd been saving on a shelf in the garage. It's an easy installation. The only tool needed is a pair of circlip pliers that will handle the tiny circlips that come in the kit.

During the learning process, I wrecked quite a few circlips, and a number also took wing and disappeared across the garage. I called Stage 8, and told the gent who answered the phone about my problem. He laughed, and told me that even expert mechanics have the same problem the first time they do the job, and he sent me a generous bag of circlips at no charge.

I can't recommend this approach highly enough. Considering how many of us have shared similar stories in this thread, the minimal cost of the kit seems cheap insurance!

cheers
Adam912.Out.
'66 912, 495K miles, lightweight and 2.2L T4 power. Woo Hoo!

The CV torque from contact to full torque is only a few degrees. The difference between 20LBft and 31LBFT is even less. Proper locking washer systems provide the necessary anti rotation resistance and tension maintenance. Schnoors, Nordlock are just a short list of washers that provide the proper combination. Depending where the Stage 8 bolt head ends up there is a few degrees of rotation possible, I am all for certainty, proper locking washer choice is critical, surgical attention to cleanliness is the most critical phase. I cleaned my surfaces with brake clean and a final wipe with acetone prior to install. Bolt type is less critical, as long as grade and length are correct, it doesn't matter the type. My car is my daily, and I drive from 10K to 20K miles a year. Lots of that sport style driving.

[DanMan68]

I have been searching for 8mm moon clips, but I can only find 911 332 191 00 which seems to be for 10mm bolts. What am I missing? My car has one solid flange axle (original and worn out now unfortunately), and one replacement "stamped flange" axle that was installed w/o moon clips or washers, so trying to replace everything with the proper hardware.

[ClickClickBoom]

Originally Posted by DanMan68

I have been searching for 8mm moon clips, but I can only find 911 332 191 00 which seems to be for 10mm bolts. What am I missing? My car has one solid flange axle (original and worn out now unfortunately), and one replacement "stamped flange" axle that was installed w/o moon clips or washers, so trying to replace everything with the proper hardware.

Seems Porsche doesn’t stock/carry the correct moon plate for the 100mm CV. Go to a VW dealer for Rabbit/Vanagon plates, I am pretty sure they used 100mm joints. I will look for a part number when I go out to the shop today.

[ClickClickBoom]

Try these guys:
https://socalautoparts.com/product/cv-joint-hardware-install-kit/

https://socalautoparts.com/product/cv-joint-lock-plate/

socalautoparts dot com

[ClickClickBoom]

Thing is, quite a few cars use commonly available components at the OEM manufacturing/design level. A little outside the box thinking can save a lot of grief when sourcing hard to find parts. My idle air valve went wonky, plugged the part number on the side of the unit into the interweb, found the same exact unit, made in the same country, with the same sticker as the one in my car for 1/5th the OEM price. Been running like a champ for the last 30k miles.

[DanMan68]

Originally Posted by ClickClickBoom

Try these guys:
https://socalautoparts.com/product/cv-joint-hardware-install-kit/

https://socalautoparts.com/product/cv-joint-lock-plate/

socalautoparts dot com

Thank you!

[ClickClickBoom]

Originally Posted by DanMan68

Thank you!

No worries, order one plate to insure fit, if right bang away. Or call them and ask them to measure the hole center to center or edge to edge, just use the same when measuring your CVs. The moon plates have 2 sides, so 2 uses. 2 sets should last awhile. The composition of the new boots is cruddy, so watch closely, be prepared for replacement. One of my litmus tests is smell, if you get burning oil smell when using the heater or pulling up to a stop, its either an oil leak or busted CV boot. I have replaced 3 boots due to cracking/splits, all recent replacements, 3-5 years.

[DanMan68]

Originally Posted by ClickClickBoom

No worries, order one plate to insure fit, if right bang away. Or call them and ask them to measure the hole center to center or edge to edge, just use the same when measuring your CVs. The moon plates have 2 sides, so 2 uses. 2 sets should last awhile. The composition of the new boots is cruddy, so watch closely, be prepared for replacement. One of my litmus tests is smell, if you get burning oil smell when using the heater or pulling up to a stop, its either an oil leak or busted CV boot. I have replaced 3 boots due to cracking/splits, all recent replacements, 3-5 years.

Has anyone ever considered using another OEM's boot with a modified or redesigned solid steel flange? Seems like the flanges could easily be machined up or even reused without too much trouble.

[Walt Fricke]

I use one size fits all universal replacement boots, which I have purchased from JC Whitney. Last time I did this, a couple of years ago, I had more trouble getting what I wanted, as I recall - maybe their on line catalog wanted car information, which wasn't really needed.

These are a series of stacked, each larger in diameter, bellows. If needed, you snip off one of the smaller ones to fit the axle. But it is the other end you need to snip for sure so it fits over the flange. Zip ties work fine on the big end. Optional depending on the small end, where you always should insert one of those ubiquitous red plastic thin tubes from a brake cleaner or other spray can - you want air inside the joint to be able to move in and out so the grease doesn't get pressurized.

This only works, at least easily, on a certain kind of metal flange, where the factory piece had a separate boot clamped on with a strip of metal banding. Since I have these I can reuse them. Maybe with some thought the kind where the rubber boot is crimped into the flange could, after the old boot is cut off, be modified to hold a replacement boot.

These have lasted and lasted - I can't recall when last one split on me.