front Apron, is it primed?

[francesconyc]

I purchased the JP Group Dansk Apron without fog lights holes because i want to delete them and have a cleaner look.

I received it today and it’s all satin black, but not deep glossy black as my 911SC black paint (i think L041)

Is this supposed to be primed or do i have to prime it again if i wanted to make it the exact black?

Thanks

[Dpmulvan]

Originally Posted by francesconyc

I purchased the JP Group Dansk Apron without fog lights holes because i want to delete them and have a cleaner look.

I received it today and it’s all satin black, but not deep glossy black as my 911SC black paint (i think L041)

Is this supposed to be primed or do i have to prime it again if i wanted to make it the exact black?

Thanks

The satin black is just an epoxy primer, you’ll need to scuff it up with scotchbrite or use 400 grit sand paper then shoot either your single stage color or base color and clear over it. If there’s any imperfections you might want to use a 2k build primer first, then sand smooth and shoot your color.

[francesconyc]

gotcha thanks!

[jimtweet]

Originally Posted by Dpmulvan

The satin black is just an epoxy primer, you’ll need to scuff it up with scotchbrite or use 400 grit sand paper then shoot either your single stage color or base color and clear over it. If there’s any imperfections you might want to use a 2k build primer first, then sand smooth and shoot your color.

You definitely can not paint over ecoat. Terrible idea. That ecoat should be scuffed and and either a new fresh coat of epoxy, or sealer and then your paint if you want to spray wet on wet. Painting ecoat is never recommended.

[smadsen]

I replaced mine about 20 years ago, but had it powdered painted to match the body color before the install. It's held up pretty well after 100,000+ miles.

[Dpmulvan]

Originally Posted by jimtweet

You definitely can not paint over ecoat. Terrible idea. That ecoat should be scuffed and and either a new fresh coat of epoxy, or sealer and then your paint if you want to spray wet on wet. Painting ecoat is never recommended.

Your right my bad didn’t realize that was dipped in ecoat.

[francesconyc]

Originally Posted by jimtweet

You definitely can not paint over ecoat. Terrible idea. That ecoat should be scuffed and and either a new fresh coat of epoxy, or sealer and then your paint if you want to spray wet on wet. Painting ecoat is never recommended.

scuffed with scotchbrite? 400 wet?

I have two cans of primers at home Rustoleum Self-etching and a Rust-Oleum 249321 Primer Sealer, is the latter what you mean?

[Dpmulvan]

Originally Posted by francesconyc

scuffed with scotchbrite? 400 wet?

I have two cans of primers at home Rustoleum Self-etching and a Rust-Oleum 249321 Primer Sealer, is the latter what you mean?

A red scotchbrite or some 400 dry just to give some tooth for mechanical bond. I’m sorry I misinterpreted your post you probably should shoot an epoxy primer over ecoat then your paint after epoxy flashes. Don’t use rust oleum use the right paint. You don’t need glasurit just a decent epoxy with hardener followed by your base coat clear coat or single stage. If you must use rust oleum at least add some hardener to it.

[francesconyc]

a primer like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Eastwood-Epoxy-Primer-Spray-Aeroso/dp/B07Q5G8STD/

[jimtweet]

Correct process would be
Sand 220
1 coat of epoxy
Depending on brand you’d have to check “rules”
With SPI I would wait 24 hours
2 coats of Wurth SkS
1 coat SPi epoxy reduced as sealer
Base
Clear

[francesconyc]

Originally Posted by jimtweet

Correct process would be
Sand 220
1 coat of epoxy
Depending on brand you’d have to check “rules”
With SPI I would wait 24 hours
2 coats of Wurth SkS
1 coat SPi epoxy reduced as sealer
Base
Clear

Thanks!
Idef I'm curious to di this process myself. also this piece is not going to any car show so id be ok to have something I can have fun to do myself.

newbie question: can I sand it with a rotary sender?

if I understand correctly:

1 coat of expoy, 2 coat Wurth SKS then AGAIN 1 coat of epoxy? what do you mean reduced as sealer?

[AG81]

^
I'll jump in having done a bit of painting. I personally would not use a rotary sander. I would sand it by hand. Your just giving the part a surface that will allow the primer to bite into. I would be afraid of taking too much of the surface off with a rotary.

[francesconyc]

Originally Posted by AG81

^
I'll jump in having done a bit of painting. I personally would not use a rotary sander. I would sand it by hand. Your just giving the part a surface that will allow the primer to bite into. I would be afraid of taking too much of the surface off with a rotary.

got it thanks!

[Gregvdb]

Don’t forget to degrease before sanding, also use a tac cloth to remove dust before primer

[francesconyc]

ok, i sanded it with 220 by hand, very lightly, the current paint is def very light as you can some small edges lost the paint and showed a bit of metal below. I'm glad I didn't use the power sander.

now, to recap which epoxy spray can I use? any amazon direct link so I don't make mistakes?

[jimtweet]

Originally Posted by francesconyc

ok, i sanded it with 220 by hand, very lightly, the current paint is def very light as you can some small edges lost the paint and showed a bit of metal below. I'm glad I didn't use the power sander.

now, to recap which epoxy spray can I use? any amazon direct link so I don't make mistakes?

Spraymax 2k epoxy can would work for something like this. Youll need to sand again though. You shouldn’t wait any longer than 24 hours between sanding and coating. Metal and flash and scratches can heal. Its best to sand, clean, and shoot all together

[francesconyc]

Originally Posted by jimtweet

Spraymax 2k epoxy can would work for something like this. Youll need to sand again though. You shouldn’t wait any longer than 24 hours between sanding and coating. Metal and flash and scratches can heal. Its best to sand, clean, and shoot all together

oh interesting, sure, I'll give another sanding pass when the primer arrives then

thanks!