Parts list

[HarryD]

Out of curiosity, why was the motor rebuilt when there was less than 10% leakdown on all cylinders on the initial diagnosis? Just seeking to understand.

[E Sully]

I was under the impression the leakdown test was post rebuild.

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by E Sully

I was under the impression the leakdown test was post rebuild.

From the first page of the invoice.

[E Sully]

Originally Posted by smiles11

Thanks for the info. I was told by my shop that it would be good to run a gallon or two of 110 to help compression. My engine was completely rebuilt to 2.4L recently. Less than 3k miles ago. The reason they recommended 110 to achieve 93 was to help the car from hesitating within the rev band around 4k rpm. The car doesn’t suffer from that anymore, however I’m starting to notice some popping in the carbs & it’s starting to have trouble holding idle without adjusting the throttle. Even when fully warmed. Sometimes resulting to close moments of flooding the engine.

Why was the rebuild done? I would think he had a worn motor, and enough money and time after discussing things with the shop to build a fun toy. To me this looks like a post rebuild description of the ongoing set up.
Only smiles11 can tell us. Till then you and I can continue to speculate, it's part of the fun.

[smiles11]

Thanks everyone. I’ve got a tuneup scheduled in a few weeks with my shop IPB in Sacramento.

Also changed out the gasket today after I finally changed my hood shocks... That was way overdue!








Planning to replace the gasket on my oil sender next & clean the potentiometer

[smiles11]

Good questions on the rebuild. I started a thread that covers some details.

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1161802-new-me-71t.html#post12251470

Previous owner told me that while the engine was in decent shape at 72k original miles. He wanted to bulletproof the engine, give it some more power, & properly seal the engine making it tight & leak free.

[E Sully]

The oil sender takes a little bit of technique to get out due to the float. That looks like the one area that wasn't cleaned by the dry ice. Since I bought the car mine never worked, I've always relied on the dipstick.

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by E Sully

The oil sender takes a little bit of technique to get out due to the float. That looks like the one area that wasn't cleaned by the dry ice. Since I bought the car mine never worked, I've always relied on the dipstick.

Replaced mine a year or so ago. Fiddly but not hard. Be sure the area is clean to prevent debris from getting into the oil tank.

Needed to R&R it twice to adjust the arm to get a reading I liked.

Having a working gauge is very nice.

[smiles11]

Any tips on cleaning it? I was told the original units are good when cleaned instead of replacing it. The gauge will still read, but flickers a lot under acceleration.

[E Sully]

I have just sprayed with brake clean. The wound wires were worn through in one area of my '73 and would have required rewinding it internally, not worth it in my opinion.
These are a couple others I have come across. The first one is from a '65, second is from a '69, which should be similar to yours. They all work the same, the float arm moves along the wound wire varying the resistance. To test just put an ohmmeter on the terminals and see if you get a smooth varying resistance.
The '65 gauge was good for 90% of travel, but did have a small area with an intermittant reading. I didn't want to damage anything by trying to adjust the contact of the arm against the winding and left it alone.

[smiles11]

I cleaned it up & pulled it back. The large block just behind the bolt plate won’t come out. It appears to be larger than the hole?

Any trick to getting it to come out easily? I don’t want to break it

[smiles11]

[wazzz]

It will come out, but not straight out. There's some sort of a twist gesture to apply as you pull it out.

[smiles11]

Thank you! That helped tremendously. Once I saw the black tab that holds the wire, that helped me understand the orientation to rotate it out.

Just finished blasting it clean & now I’m getting ready to put it back in. Just a quick run to the hardware store to get new washers.

[smiles11]

[smiles11]

Thank you

[smiles11]

Circling back. Had the tune-up completed this week. Noted that valve#3 was loose & none of the valves were tight. #1 & #5 idle circuits were plugged. Replaced ignition contacts, fuel filter & spark plugs. I’ll post some pics of the old spark plugs.

Compression & leakdown were healthy

1) 200/5% 2) 200/5%
3) 200/5% 4) 200/5%
5) 203/4% 6) 200/4%



Will be doing my own oil change this week & sending a sample to Blackstone.

[E Sully]

Very nice. 200psi compression is quite high. My 'stock '86 was 185psi after break in. I can see why they want a high octane gasoline. I see they also found and fixed a carburetor issue. Looks like the engine is healthy.

[nickelplated5s]

Originally Posted by smiles11

Any tips on cleaning it? I was told the original units are good when cleaned instead of replacing it. The gauge will still read, but flickers a lot under acceleration.

Been pondering this as mine moves around too. Lower with higher RPM, normal idle and flat. Dipstick shows fine but getting near that red, low, line makes me nervous. hopefully someone will know but my guess is the pump is just moving a lot of oil. That said can you really overfill a sump tank?

[wazzz]

Originally Posted by nickelplated5s

Been pondering this as mine moves around too. Lower with higher RPM, normal idle and flat. Dipstick shows fine but getting near that red, low, line makes me nervous. hopefully someone will know but my guess is the pump is just moving a lot of oil. That said can you really overfill a sump tank?

That's the way it works. Goes down to red when reving. Goes back up slowly to upper white when idling on flat for a while. That is the effect of the scavenge pump sending oil back to tank via cooler(s).