stumped on ignition switch removal

[shamrok]

I simply cannot get the aluminum housing out. The section in red needs to move left and seemingly out of the steering column I think, but the key cylinder is in the dash and I’m about a 1/4 inch short of getting it out of the cutout. The set screw below is backed out. What am I missing?

[john walker's workshop]

2 pop rivets. Drill them out. Push the key part in past the plate.

[Larmo63]

Drilling out the pop rivets is the easiest part.

I used Allen heads on the new switch. Years from now, somebody will thank me.

[proporsche]

ok,and the reason for removing is?? otherwise you are in good hands.....

Ivan

[shamrok]

I ended up not removing it, and about ruined my back to get at the upper screw and removed the electrical switch. I’d read a few times to not drill out the rivets, but I’ll do that.

As far as why, I get a pretty intermittent no-start and have to rotate towards start repetitively for it the switch to engage the starter. Mechanically everything seems fine, but I wanted to pull it all out to take a look and see if there’s not something I should look into. Wiring to the starter itself is fresh, the starter is a newer high-torque unit.

[Topgun63]

I ran into same issue. Drill out rivets, either replace with bolts or Pelican has special Porsche break away bolts to deter theft.

[sean m]

Shamrok,
Just went through this 2 weeks ago.....sounds like you need a new ignition switch.
As stated before, drill out the 2 rivets. I replaced the breakaway bolts with phillips head screws in case I needed to do again.

When replacing the ignition switch, I removed my drivers seat so I had room under the dash to get to wires and the bolt for the steering lock that needs to be removed.

Once that's done you can replace the ignition switch while its out of the car. It just has 2 small screws that you can't get to unless the ignition is out of the car.

Good luck

[SoCalSK8r]

I struggled with the intermittent starting issue for a long time. I was able to troubleshoot it down to the mechanical portion of the switch, and then said fug it and have been starting my car with a screw driver for the past 2 yrs.

My wife has been busting my balls about this now forever....and now as I get back into actually fixing the switch I realize why I punted and took the lazy route for the past 2 years.

My back is not loving this job.

[Dpmulvan]

Really not that difficult loosen 5 mm Allen set screw and drill out rivets.

[Larmo63]

Take the driver's seat out and use pillows or padding on the floorboard.

You need a new switch. It's going bad, and it will not get better.

It will get worse and leave you stranded somewhere in the middle of nowhere. Thank God I had mine finally give up near my house and I push started the car to get it home.

This isn't the hardest thing to fix. If I can do it, you can do it.

[proporsche]

the rivets there are for nothing.The do not provide any protection.The tumbler would be pulled out by slide hammer- and the car can be driven away in no time, so rivets are for nada.But if you like to protect your 911 you can use the 911Lockshield.....
here is how it looks- 8.8 Swedish steel material used painted and heated in boot for hardness.
Have them for all models of 911,964,993.. 1965-98





this is just a information-option no sale pitch...unless you want to you can always contact me for details

[911pcars]

Aren't these switches two-piece? If so, each part is replaceable.

Sherwood

[Trojands]

Originally Posted by sean m

Shamrok,
Just went through this 2 weeks ago.....sounds like you need a new ignition switch.
As stated before, drill out the 2 rivets. I replaced the breakaway bolts with phillips head screws in case I needed to do again.

When replacing the ignition switch, I removed my drivers seat so I had room under the dash to get to wires and the bolt for the steering lock that needs to be removed.

Once that's done you can replace the ignition switch while its out of the car. It just has 2 small screws that you can't get to unless the ignition is out of the car.

Good luck

What size/length of the phillips did you use to place your ignition switch back on? I'm assuming they are 5mm in diameter?

[Dpmulvan]

Originally Posted by proporsche

the rivets there are for nothing.The do not provide any protection.The tumbler would be pulled out by slide hammer- and the car can be driven away in no time, so rivets are for nada.But if you like to protect your 911 you can use the 911Lockshield.....
here is how it looks- 8.8 Swedish steel material used painted and heated in boot for hardness.
Have them for all models of 911,964,993.. 1965-98





this is just a information-option no sale pitch...unless you want to you can always contact me for details

Unfortunately anyone can buy wafer lock picks off the internet these days.

[eastbay]

Originally Posted by shamrok

I ended up not removing it, and about ruined my back to get at the upper screw and removed the electrical switch. I’d read a few times to not drill out the rivets, but I’ll do that.

As far as why, I get a pretty intermittent no-start and have to rotate towards start repetitively for it the switch to engage the starter. Mechanically everything seems fine, but I wanted to pull it all out to take a look and see if there’s not something I should look into. Wiring to the starter itself is fresh, the starter is a newer high-torque unit.

Have you checked/serviced the 14 pin connector in the engine bay?

[proporsche]

Originally Posted by Dpmulvan

Unfortunately anyone can buy wafer lock picks off the internet these days.

Buy it yes but have you try it on the 911 ignition..i guess not?;-)))

Ivan

[911obgyn]

I replaced my starter wit a wosp hi tourque starter and had intermittent no start, i ended up cleaning bell housing and electrical connections to fix it.

[pmax]

Ignition switch removal

Originally Posted by Larmo63

Drilling out the pop rivets is the easiest part.
...

Originally Posted by needspeed

... However, I'm having a ***** of a time removing the breakoff bolts holding the switch to the dash. I'm using a drill and Dremel to drill a slot to insert a flat head screw driver, but it takes a long time to make progress given the hardness of the breakoff bolts. Even cobalt drill tips make slow grinding progress. Have any tips on getting these bolts off faster?

Tips on Removing Ignition Switch

Are these posts referring to the same thing ?

Originally Posted by Dpmulvan

Unfortunately anyone can buy wafer lock picks off the internet these days.

Or access the ignition switch wiring from under the dash.

Tips on Removing Ignition Switch

Seems like the better approach for removing the ignition switch.

[proporsche]

Or access the ignition switch wiring from under the dash.

Tips on Removing Ignition Switch

Seems like the better approach for removing the ignition switch

PMAX: you probably do not know the mechanic of the ignition switch,or? If you remove the wires you cannot drive the car-it is LOCKED..you cannot steer it

Ivan