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Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 401
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Dear friends
I have this 1978 911 SC coupe that I'm trying to instal the rear glass and I saw a lot of threats about this installation but I still have some questions 1-) The seal itself have a junction line, does this line goes to the top or to the bottom? of the car ? 2-) There is 2 distinctive channels in the rubber seal, one small in on end and a bigger one in the middle ( and I'm guessing that is where the glass seat Problem is the wires for the defroster Do they run on the middle channel where the glass go or do they run on the outer smaller Channel? 3-) I punched the holes for the 4 wires pass thru, again DO I punch them to the middle channel or to the outer channel ? ( and by the outer Chanel I mean the one that will be inside the car 4-) I read that I first install the glass and then tuck the wires inside the rubber, is that correct? 5-) Then again the spades connector are int middle Chanel and there is a "wall' between the middle and the outer channel that make this installation hard I don't know If I could explain myself very well, since I still very aggravated with the many hours that I lost today trying to instal this rear glass Maybe a simpler approach is: How do I do that? ;-) Install the glass and the defrost wires on this 911 coupe Thank you all ![]() ![]() |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,964
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The wires poke through so just the spade connector is the same “channel” as the glass. Run all the sores and then put the seal on the glass, then the trim. The rear seal seemed to fit the glass “looser” then all the other windows.
I don’t think the seam placement is critical. Old one was on top for mine, put the new one back the same way. Todd
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'81 SC |
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Registered Minimalist
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I put the seam in the middle down on mine. Not sure it matters.
The easiest thing to do is to place the defrost harness in position around the glass. you will see where the wires were bent so that the spade connector is on the inside channel and not the wire channel. The glass has depressions in it to account for the connectors. When you put the wires in and connect the spade connectors, ensure that they lie flat against this area and that the wire runs back into the channel before the depression ends. I have detailed pics in my thread a few pages back from the end.
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Duane / IG: @duanewik / Youtube Channel: Wik's Garage Check out my 75 and 77 911S build threads |
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I think when insert the glass it will be clear in which rubber piece the holes will be punched. As for the channel, I'd say it's what you're calling the middle channel -- certainly not on the outer edge. I found that punching holes in rubber is trickier than I thought. The rubber has a tendency to shear if you're not careful, and you definitely want to avoid having a tear that goes past the "wall." Does that make sense? When I did this, I found that it was pretty clear where the holes and the wires went when I trial tested it with the glass; it is not clear just fumbling with the limp seal with all the folds.
Getting the trim in place was a real pain, but easier with the aluminum trim of the SC than with the the plastic trim of the late Carreras. And then getting the whole thing to seat in the window frame with the rope method. Once you do it, you'll wonder why it was so difficult. Good luck!
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1988 Carrera Coupe (3.2) 1987 Ferrari Mondial 1976 BMW 2002 |
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(man/dude)
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I spent at least a few full days doing this on my "Rot Rod". I don't remember the specifics of what was so difficult about it, just that it was a huge ordeal and I don't remember there being one secret that got it done.
One helpful hint is to make sure the trim is fully snapped into the rubber after the rubber is installed on the glass. The trim will hold the rubber in place on the glass. If the trim pops out of the rubber you will NOT be able to push it into the rubber after installation. The trick I figured out was to use brake cleaner to lube the trim and rubber while installing this trim. It will help the trim install by being just a bit slippery but then fully evaporate after a short time and allow the trim to hold in place in the rubber. Good luck and don't get discouraged!
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Ridgefield CT
Posts: 184
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I took my rear glass out to change the seal. Fortunately my car does not have the defroster. I've heard it's quite the pain to get it back in, but I have to do the carpeting before then anyway...the good ole' while you're in there got the best of me...
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I'm replacing my seal and found these flat vise grips work well when installing molding and getting it to form fit again.
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