Got the electrical in...

Kind of a funky mounting for the relay but it works :) the fans turn on

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1742355287.jpg


Only a few steps left - need to get the front rear wheel condenser stone guard cut and mounted... get the console put back together and the center vent put in, and as mentioned in an earlier post - still don't have the skid plate back on :)

Then time to test!

OK sounds like that's the only possible route then.
Thanks for showing your project though I understand it is somewhat "non-standard" !

I do read repeated posts about the excellent instructions provided and am wondering if that's the recommended standard practice. Searching around, I find no pictures of a complete rear condenser installed to compare with ... other than yours, hence the question above ... the lack of info surprised me given how many of these Griffiths AC threads there are.

It's mostly standard - I've just been doing things slightly out of order - most of it ends up just like it is supposed to.. obviously there are choices to be made - (like the thermostat tube routing).. some are made on purpose, some happen just because :)

Well I'm glad I can add to the collection of knowledge then :) If there are any pictures of the system you'd like to see - let me know, I'll try and get them before I button everything back up.

maybe some inspiration for the electrical

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1742489298.JPG

Here's one then !

How did you mount the hoses between the front rear and back rear condensers ? In my SC, I noticed there's a small metal tube running the length, not sure if that's sturdy enough to secure them though.

I put the tire back on, but need to get back in there anyway so I'll get you a photo, but yes - that tube is where the cable runs for the engine lid release - instructions indicate to zip tie the hose and electrical to that. Works well.

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have a question..., in the build are there any milestones where the car is drivable even with a partially installed A/C? I dont want (but I can) have the car non-operational for a long spell

Most certainly. Depending on how often you want to lift your car, take on and off the wheels, etc.. you can do most of the steps as individual projects if you want. Just need to make sure things are sealed up if you are out driving. Don't really want hoses hanging out the bottom of your car :)

Finished up the install... got the Vent put in, cut the front wheel well stone guard.. cleaned up some of the electrical in the engine bay..

Now time to vacuum/pressure test the system :)

Realized I need to get the other knob put back on :) they don't point where they used to, but no worries :)


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1742622453.jpg

The hose/electrical routing between the 2 rear wheel condensers - zipped up to the engine lid release tube...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1742622453.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1742622453.jpg

my chunky stone guard

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1742622453.jpg

You have a really great car. Grand Prix White, and burgundy interior. Just like mine!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1742678124.jpg

The perfect color combination. I might possibly be a tad bit prejudiced as my daily driver, 86 El Camino has the same color combo. :D

That center vent is wonderful. If you point it at your driver position, it will freeze your leg. When I have my wife with me, I just point it at the middle of the cabin to share that blast of cold.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1742678378.jpg

If you get the vacuum near perfect, and all the moisture out of the 27 feet of hoses, and multiple components with no hidden ice, you can get cold air on a 100+ degree day with the blower set to hurricane speed after many hours of driving in full sun.

Thanks!! :) You know, when I was first shopping and saw this online it didn't really do it for me. But when I saw it in person it really took me in... at some point I'm going to have to send my steering wheel off to get it recovered as the leather is shot, and then I'll probably have to dye the seats, as the seating surfaces are looking more brown than burgundy... although I'd really like to find some Sport seats. (probably can't afford them though)




Had to grab a picture of all the removed parts before I chucked them all :)

Wondering if there is a market for slightly used Evaporator or condenser.. junkyard might give me a few bucks for them... dunno That and the compressor. I *think* it is probably still good, I replaced it just to be sure since I would have had to rebuild the seals anyhow since it had R12 before.... Anybody take it as a core?


Some hints for those doing this themselves -
--be careful with the hoses when they come out - mine had dyed oil in them that leaked all over the place...
--that prestite tape will stick to everything - keep the paper on it until you really need to use it.
--listen to Griff - he knows what he is talking about
--When trying to thread the hoses back up into the engine bay - put a big bright light in the bay so from underneath the car it lights up the hole...
--it is *really* dirty under these cars - especially the front drivers wheel well - when you pull those hoses be prepared for a ton of dirt to drop out.
--be better organized than me - I spent 2 days looking for some of the hardware I knew I had, but misplaced it (it was in my tool box somehow) - and now I've lost one of the knobs.. I am very disorganized :(



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1742702115.jpg

Another Griffiths AC Install Thread
 

Dallas steering wheel does a perfect job of recovering the steering wheel. They fixed mine and after many years it looks great.

It is the one part that you are touching 100% of the time, and looking at it right in front of your face.

Did you get the extra padding on yours? and dye the horn pad? I'm debating both...



Did a vacuum check of my system - few hours and was still holding at just under 1 ATM (cheap pump wasn't going to pull much more, and analog gauges not entirely accurate) after I remembered to close the valve to avoid leakage from the pump/gauge hoses :)

Made an appt for next week with an AC shop that does classic cars... just did another 911, so hopefully he understands the complexities of the system :)

I just had them match a piece of the leather on the back of the steering wheel that was no faded. My horn button was fine, so just the steering wheel. It came back looking like new.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1742935832.JPG

Be careful with that pretty 911. Pretty young women just flock to them! :eek: The funny part of this, was my car seats had a few of the feathers from her boa. Fortunately my wife was with me, and saw the source of the feathers. This was at a dealership sponsored introduction to the new 992 911. They asked me to bring my antique as a sample of the earlier models.

I would suggest providing them with Griff’s instructions or with Glen’s procedure. Let the $$ fall where they may as part of the project cost. Drive in cool comfort for years.
Just my $.02.

I would think the process is the same as any other R134a system. Evacuate and fill with the correct amount of freon and oil.

Or is it one of those shops with a stash of or knows where to get some R12 for classic cars :) ?

Straight 134a.... I actually know a guy with a case of R12.. wants $100 a can though...

No sense in leaving it R12 at this point.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1742999866.jpg

"Step 33 Locate an open area to attach the new Kuehl relay on the electrical panel. If you do not have a pre-existing bolt on the panel to secure the relay, position the relay on the panel and drill a small pilot hole to attach the relay and secure it in position with a self tapping screw and flat washer."

The big difference is most other cars have all the AC components in the engine compartment, and all close together. With the 27 feet of hoses, and 4 condensers, evaporator, and other various parts, water (ice) has a lot of places to hide.

It is physically impossible to have to good of a vacuum. And water will freeze into ice and "hide" in the system in a typical 10 minute vacuum pull.

At least one nitrogen purge is a very wise move. Just my opinion, and I am not an AC pro, just a dude with some kick butt AC in my 85 911.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1743086771.jpg
That is frost on the connection coming back to the compressor on a 80 degree day.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1743086815.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1743086815.jpg
I was 100% comfortable in my car on a toasty day in southern New Mexico. After an hour of driving, I have to turn the temp up and the fan down to avoid getting cold unless I am driving due west with the sun shining directly on me.