My scope creep report: Part 1

[kuhl85]

Well you start out just wanting to fix a few "little things" and the next thing you know, you have pieces everywhere and you are ordering more parts...

Decided to fix some of the small leaks that are somewhat part of the experience of owning a 40yr old car. Nothing was so bad that it caused any issues; I always check the oil before driving, after warm up.

So I ordered new oil return tubes as they were clearly letting some oil leak out. Then I noticed the lower valve covers were leaking- might as well replace them. Might as well check valve lashing if you are going that far, right? Then I noticed the fitting on the oil crossover pipe was "losing" some oil too. Ok, why not?!

Apparently the valve cover nuts and washers need to be replaced during the process. The oil cooler looked suspicious too, and since the seals are replaceable without dropping the engine, why not? That led me to discover anotherl leak from the oil pressure switch, an inexpensive part that is kind of a pain to get to unless you have already removed a bunch of top end plastic (like I did).

Trying to clean up as much as I can during the process too, and since I'm waiting on a few seals and gaskets for the exhaust anyway, I will keep cleaning up things as I can.
None of the parts were particularly pricey since the big items are still good, it's just death by a thousand paper cuts; $5 gasket here, bunch of new nuts and bolts, etc.

Definitely enjoying the process now that I have the exhaust bolts off- that is the part I was most dreading as I thought for sure it would result in a ton of extra work due to broken bolts. Fortunately only one bolt broke and I'm replacing it anyway so no problem!

The joys of a 40 year old air-cooled Porsche! Wouldn't have it any other way!

[911obgyn]

Thats why my sig is 0BGYN911
Because i was all up under her for a year when i first got her.😜

[Old H2S]

Now you know why we all have 120K in a 60K car..

[pmax]

Try giving it a couple good extended runs.

What kinda oil is in there now ?

[kuhl85]

current list of things I have replaced ( much of these were confirmed leaks, albeit some minor):
-oil return tubes (all of them)
-oil temperature switch crush washer
-oil crossover pipe (to thermostat)
-oil thermostat seal
-oil cooler seals
-all exhaust seals
-all exhaust bolts
-valve cover gaskets,nuts,bolts
-air intake gasket

other things I have done:
-adjusted valves
-cleaned oil cooler
-new spark plugs
-TSB 8911 (jb weld method)
-oil/filter change
-air filter


I'm running Liqui Moly Touring High Tech SAE 20W-50 oil in it. That is what the PO used (I bought this car in early 2024) and the higher viscosity matches our Texas heat pattern.

At this point I feel I probably would have been better off dropping the engine! Anything else I should look at while I'm here? The AC compressor is loose as is the air intake, so there is still somewhat decent acccess to the front of the engine. If I turn my head just right and watch the studs on the passenger intake manifold...

[wazzz]

I see you had to address the TSB 8911 syndrome. How bad was it leaking? Both outside and inside the cooler compartment wall or only outside?

[kuhl85]

It actually wasn't leaking but I didn't figure it would hurt to do it, and I was already there, with the oil cooler off, so i did both inside and outside.

[wazzz]

Good, thanks!
Now that you are at the intake partly removed, you may want to go down the rabbit hole and tackle the fuel lines if they are original. They tend to leak as they are aging.

[kuhl85]

oh this is definitely something I've been thinking about. Is it doable without the engine completely out? I was trying to get in touch with Len and see about his fuel lines but I have emailed him multiple times since last November. Are there other good options?

[pmax]

Oil's good.
3.2s Motronic are the best. You chose well.

Fuel lines are doable insitu but it is a tight squeeze. Protect the AC condenser on the lid with cardboard or something while your head is in there

Len's thread is here 3.2 Motor Fuel Line Re-Make

I bought mine from him as well.

[brighton911]

Kuhl85, good on you for taking on all those repairs. Now while you are in there, may I suggest you check the torque on the intake manifold bolts. On a 3.2, the intake is notorious for developing intake leaks. The gaskets are paper thin and provide little sealing if the torque backs off. Have fun !

[kuhl85]

Thank you all for the tips, I am following up on all of them!
-David

[ErrorMargin]

Originally Posted by kuhl85

oh this is definitely something I've been thinking about. Is it doable without the engine completely out?

I replaced all my fuel lines with updates from Len. I did it with the engine out, but it is doable with the engine in the car.

You will definitely need a helper to do the tunnel lines (one person at the front and another at the back pushing them through).

The only fuel line I could not get from Len is the J line that comes off the fuel regulator. I bought a new one from Griffiths: https://griffiths.com/product/93011050901-2/

Franny has a good video on replacing the fuel lines: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ov5WgnuHffE

Here are a few other items to consider while you are in there:

Triangle of Death: Oil breather, engine thermostat, etc. replace all those gaskets and make sure you have the correct hardware.

Intake manifold: replace the gaskets and spacers and update to the later "thick" style washers. I have a post with the part numbers and torque values here: https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1153485-pulled-engine-my-84-targa-now-fun-begins-3.html#post12351243

Also, definitely replace the rubber collar that connects the intake manifold halves: https://www.pelicanparts.com/search/?q=930+110+573+01

Test/replace brake booster line. Put a hand vacuum pump on the line that goes to the brake booster from the engine and see if it will hold vacuum. Replace it if leaking: https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/435952-vacuum-leak-you-probably-didnt-ever-think.html

Send your fuel injectors out to be cleaned and tested. You might also consider sending your fuel pump to be tested and either test your fuel pressure regulator and damper yourself or send them out for testing as well. I sent all mine to RC Fuel Injection.

I'd have your alternator tested to make sure it is in good shape before putting it back in.

With the intake manifold removed from the car, you might consider sending the intake manifold halves to be vapor blasted and send all the fuel rails, nuts, bolts, brackets and clamps to be zinc plated.

This is also a good time for new spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor.

When you get it all back together you should check to see if pressing the gas pedal all the way to the floor will actually open the throttle butterfly valve all the way. It was only opening about 2/3rd on my car and I adjusted it to open all the way...it made a huge difference above 3,000 RPM.

You should also check the torque on all your CV Joint bolts..24 bolts in total. Several of my bolts were loose. The torque spec is 33 ft/lbs. I replaced all the bolts and washers on my CV joints with new.

Keep us updated on your progress.

[GH85Carrera]

All of those chores are what a 40 year old car needs to be reliable. Been there, done them all.

The tunnel fuel lines are not too hard, except getting the fittings apart in the engine compartment.



Very little room to work with and fittings that are tight. And as mentioned above, get a friend to help snake the new lines through.

Len is a one man band, and if he is sick, or off on vacation with his kids and grandkids, it will take a while for him to respond. I am pretty sure Griffith's makes the fuel lines as well.

[kuhl85]

Yesterday i got the bottom end put back together. Len reached as well, my emails were getting stuck somewhere in spam land! Definitely planning to do the work listed here.