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Pickle fork.
Ball joint separator tool - https://a.co/d/8nTw8Dh Or hammer on the control arm, but use something to protect it. |
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That pin is another bit I reassemble with anti seize.
Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-) |
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Get off my lawn!
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The pin pops right our with an air hammer.
I bought a cheap ball joint tool to pop the ball joint out. I had tried a pickle fork on my air hammer and it just wedged itself in tight, and was a pain to remove. The ball joint tool from Harbor Freight took a lot of tightening, and it was straining, and then POP! the ball joint let go.
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Glen 49 Year member of the Porsche Club of America 1985 911 Carrera; 2017 Macan 1986 El Camino with Fuel Injected 350 Crate Engine My Motto: I will never be too old to have a happy childhood! |
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PCA Member since 1988
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Thanks for the suggestions. I'm also considering removing the strut completely and disassembling it, then heating the bottom of the strut with the hope of making it expand enough to loosen up the stem, then being able to knock it out.
I don't see how the ball joint separator tool linked above would work. Further description? Any of these methods appear to end up damaging the ball joint, so I might as well order a replacement before I start.
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1973.5 911T with RoW 1980 SC CIS stroked to 3.2, 10:1 Mahle Sport p/c's, TBC exhaust ports, M1 cams, SSI's. RSR bushings & adj spring plates, Koni Sports, 21/26mm T-bars, stock swaybars, 16x7 Fuchs w Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+, 205/55-16 at all 4 corners. Cars are for driving. If you want art, get something you can hang on the wall! |
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Pete, I have seen a tapered fork tool - for that sort of job. I think someone referred it it earlier - theirs just got jammed in the gap. So it was driven in and the joint never popped. But if you used a bit of heat plus the fork, you should have a chance?
Regards Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-) |
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PCA Member since 1988
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Alan, I have the pickle fork tool, but that will destroy the old ball joint. I was curious about how to use the screw-operated ball joint separator on the bottom of a strut. If I don't have to destroy a perfect good ball joint, I'd like to avoid doing so.
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1973.5 911T with RoW 1980 SC CIS stroked to 3.2, 10:1 Mahle Sport p/c's, TBC exhaust ports, M1 cams, SSI's. RSR bushings & adj spring plates, Koni Sports, 21/26mm T-bars, stock swaybars, 16x7 Fuchs w Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+, 205/55-16 at all 4 corners. Cars are for driving. If you want art, get something you can hang on the wall! |
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I'm not sure the screw type tool will work on 911 style front ball joints. Sorry about that.
Re-attach the ball joint to the control arm. Use a piece of wood and a hammer to bang the joint out of the strut. Unless it's a pretty new joint, I'd replace it. I'm assuming it's not new given how much it is fighting you. |
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In the past I've lifted the strut a bit, held it in place with a jack stand under the hub or tie-rod arm, then used a weighted mallet to pop the control arm down away from the strut.
I guess I've been lucky with the ball joints--it's the tie rods I've never been able to get out of the strut.
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The ball joint is original, so 52 years old.
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1973.5 911T with RoW 1980 SC CIS stroked to 3.2, 10:1 Mahle Sport p/c's, TBC exhaust ports, M1 cams, SSI's. RSR bushings & adj spring plates, Koni Sports, 21/26mm T-bars, stock swaybars, 16x7 Fuchs w Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+, 205/55-16 at all 4 corners. Cars are for driving. If you want art, get something you can hang on the wall! |
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Yea I pulled all mine out to remove. Glad I did because the original strut inserts were beyond shot. Ball joints were junk. Went ahead and did control arm bushing too since it was out.
I didn't want to have to do anything up front after ripping it all out ![]() |
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The Air hammer was the ticket, so thanks to all with that recommendation. The first pinch pin I had already hammered on for a bit first, popped out pretty quickly. Passenger side, not so much, and the hammer (an IR 14GQC) needed some time. After beating the living hell out of the bolt/nut (I left the nut on to help keep the tip of the hammer centered) it finally came loose. I had to use a bigger socket (14mm instead of the 13mm) to get the mashed nut off and then pop the pin through. Once the pin was free I popped the ball joint free of the control arm and then reinstalled the castle nut to give me a bit of a lip to use a flat screwdriver and mallet to tap/ whack until the ball joint worked itself free of the strut.
Cleaned everything up and some antiseize and installed the new ball joint. I was able to slide the new pin in almost all the way and then used the air hammer for a second or three to push the pin bolt in to flush it up with the strut - like before. Both ball joints were pretty soft/ loose and both boots were ripped. Glad to have done this. ![]()
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Good skills!
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