"how-to" fix power seat switches......

[bell]

just finished this task and took some pics in the process.
i always heard this was a PIA, but it's very simple.
here we go.....

first remove the switch and take apart, the key here is to have something below that the 4 ball bearings will fall into, i used a toolbox lid.
to take apart switch use a small flat head screwdriver to release the 4 tabs on the sides of the switch. carefully and slowly pull the switch apart so the parts don't fly.

then remove the "hinged" contacts using needlenose pliers, you may need to bend the retainers out a hair, remember the orientaton/dirrection of these before you remove.



the contacts need cleaned too, don't be afraid to use a light sandpaper to refresh the contacts either.




after all the contacts are clean set the switch plate face down with the springs in their slots, then place the 4 ball bearings on the springs.

[bell]

next bring the reassembled switch base over the switch plate, check that the tabs that hold these together are on the right sides, then slowly and carfully bring it down, use even force and don't let it slip......click, you're done.



i had cut out my switch and resoldered/heatshrank the connections (had a new soldering iron i wanted to try)




hope this helps someone.......enjoy

[MIK911]

Thanks for the pics/explanation. I'm about to tackle this project, so any info helps.
1)First off, is removing the seat as simple as unscrewing 6 allen bolts? Some thread i read in the past made it seem more difficult, needing to line up the sliders, etc.
2)Are the switches easily accessible once the seat is removed and turned upside down? Sure seems like alot of foam (seat bottom) surrounding the switches.
3)Is it really necessary to cut/resolder/heatshrink the wires?

Thanks
Mike
'86 coupe

[bell]

you need to get the switch out all the way imo.
i've heard of people doing this with the seat still in the car but it'd be cramped reconnecting everything under the seat, it is only the 6 allens to remove the seat.
there're only 6 wires, a good crimping tool will work too. you can unplug everything just label what goes where.
i have my seat covers off currently, but shouldn't be a big deal getting the wires back through.

[RoninLB]

nice write up

[Wil Ferch]

I took a slightly different approach...using a new switch mechanism.

I undid the 6 seat bolts and rocked the seat either toward the back or front...whichever gives you enough working room underneath. I unscrewed the switch faceplate bezel ( as I recall) and got the switch removed from the seat. Also unplugged the other end of the wires from the harness connector...and proceeded on the tricky task of routing the switch and/or switch plug back out through the maze. This required snipping a bunch of zip ties..try to re-install in a likewise manner or you risk pinching the wires as the seat moves fore-aft. Re-install new zip ties. Re-attach the seat. Done. I ( personal preference here) don't like to cut and heat-shrink a bundle of wires as shown. I know it works.. but it screams "this was fixed" when you look at it later.
---Wil Ferch

[KTL]

I did the same cleaning as bell did, but removed the switch altogether by snipping all the zip strips like Wil did. Mostly because I stink at soldering and am hesitant to cut wires. Also the seat tracks needed some cleaning/regreasing, so I took it as an opportunity to do the tracks and get the seat switche(s) working again.

Whatever one's preference, I think the cleaning of the switch is the ideal solution. The switch doesn't really "wear out" per se'. It simply gets char on the elec. contacts and doesn't make continuity anymore. A little bit of cleaning with some light abrasive and then an application of dielectric grease gets you back to like new. The grease should help to prevent the problem from happening any time soon.

[bell]

sorry i didn't clarify.........my seat covers were off for repairs so the seat was out, unbolting and "tipping" the seat would be my other preffered method.
and i forgot to post a pic, i had wrapped the harness back up in quality electrical tape.........

[Venetian]

Thanks to this thread, I got 2 failed power switches to work again on my drivers seat. Not that big a job and probably saved a few hundred dollars.

Very surprised at how heavy this seat is! Would prefer a mechanical seat which would be more trouble free and lighter.

Thanks again to this board and the "search" function.

[Par911]

Nice work Bell!

[bell]

that thread was from over a year ago, the search button rocks

glad it helped, makes it all worthwhile

[mjshira]

you guys should hear Bells work, much better than reading trust me.

[steely]

Thanks to this 6 yr old thread and the search button, I resurrected my 4-ways.

(symptom: front switch quit yesterday, thought it was a bigger prob)

Did it in-situ since seat removal wasn't necessary - cutting the zip tie underneath to get some slack was a little tuff.

This forum does rock. pic for fun, I un-soldered instead of the splice route.





talk about modular design - all parts snap in/out. cleaned contacts w/ emery.

[vulcan300]

For the less mechanically inclined contact cleaner can be used as a first step before removal, disassembly and cleaning of the switches. You remove the retaining plate, and pull the switch out of the seat enough to see the small holes in the switch housing. Using a spray can of contact cleaner with the straw type nozzle, spray contact cleaner into the switch and rock the switch back and forth. Turn on accessory power and try the switch to see if you've had success. I found this bit of advice in a post a few years ago and it brought all of the seat switches back to life in my car.

If this doesn't work follow the great advice above.

J

[Barnaby]

Hi, ive read this post with interest and its really good info. My left side power seat stopped working a few months ago. I have the 4 way switches and its the forward and reverse that has stopped working, all other positions still work, ie seat elevation front and back, back rest tilt.
I dont think its the contacts because when i activate the switch there is an electrical noise and a "clunk" sound. It just seems that the motor has either stopped or is jammed.
Can anyone help me out here please?
thanks
Barn

[steely]

Hi Barn and Welcome!

Since you have a different sort of problem - it might have been better to have started another/new thread - but no worries.

The only thing I can recommend is to disconnect the battery (in case the switch power is hot), remove the seats (if you don't have a Bentley Manual - then search here), and inspect the motor and drive cables or guides for an obstruction.

And, it's a good idea to introduce yerself with some pics. Good luck and welcome to the show.

[kanadary]

Barn, i had the same problem that you described, you can here the clunk noise when you try the switch but it doesn't move. well my solution was to take the cover off and spray the switch with radio shack contact cleaner or whatever that stuff is when you have the crackling noise on your stereo by moving the volume knob. anyways, it worked and so far so good, its been over a year. i think you might just have a dirty contact. its worth a try for a few bucks. mine was in the most aft position so there was no way i could get to the allen bolts. i did end up removing the seat but just to clean the rails.

[jlcinga]

Thanks Kanadary....bought contact at Radio Shack today and buttons were working in just a few minutes.

Removed the two screws holding the plastic bezel....squirted the cleaner

(using the plastic tube) into the small hole behind the button with the arrows on it.

Kind of squirted the cleaner left, right and up and down. I have two buttons on

each seat and only one of the eight directions worked when I started...now they

all work. Much easier than taking the buttons apart or removing the seats.

Thanks again!!

[87911jon]

Amazing. Made my morning... yesterday I picked up my "new" 86 coupe. I knew buying it that the driver's 6 way positioning switch did not work and unfortunately the previous owner liked to drive with the seat back pretty straight up, I like to recline a little... so the seat needed to be repaired. Pulled the switch panel out, sprayed electrical cleaner into the switch opening and lo and behold they all work now! Thanks to all who contributed to this post.

[redz350]

Many thanks to targamania for the tip to use contact spray to get my power seat switches working again. I tried this yesterday and it worked like a charm. All I had to do was remove the trim panel around the switches and then spray contact cleaner around through the little whole which is then visible on the top of the switches. It took me a few applications of the spray and a fair amount of time for the spray to do it's complete job, but I now have fully functioning switches. Don't be put off if you just get a thunking sound at first, when using the switch. That's what happened with one of my switches. It doesn't necessarily mean that the seat motor is broken. As I said one of my switches did this at first, but after some time went by the switch and the seat motor worked perfectly. Thanks again targamania!!!