My 911 SC Engine Rebuild Thread
 

My girl crashed a valve yesterday, and now it is time for a rebuild! Borescope video of the carnage here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=de-RgeLJaCc&

I've ordered Wayne's book, and plan to drop the engine this weekend. I have the Bentley manual and notes from a rebuild 80K back (911SC WDP founder Leland Pate).
Right now I'm cleaning the garage and borrowing tall jackstands. I have a pretty good set of tools from a transmission rebuild and later CIS rebuild. My experience also includes a fuse box rebuild, new full-length fuel lines, CV's, and similar lesser tasks.

I would appreciate any input on steps, books, videos, pitfalls. And also a bit of encouragement - it is rather scary.

Update: Moved main content to an engine rebuild subforum thread: https://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/1179839-1979-sc-chewed-valve-total-rebuild.html

You got this!
Use Wayne's 101 book and the Bentley simultaneously. I found both have instructions the other doesn't.
Go slow and enjoy the process while triple checking everything.
Do you have a lift table?

No, when I dropped the engine in the past I put it on a furniture dolly. I lifted the transmission and put it on a sturdy table. Right now that's what I have. I have lumber and could fab something strong. Or maybe go to Harbor Freight and pick up something?

I've only ever used a lift and a hydraulic table so I can't offer any advice.

The steel motorcycle jack at harbor freight is good for 1,500lbs and is only around $120. If you take the handle off it’s fairly low profile and can hang on the wall.

The harbor freight motorcycle lift is ok. I have one and it’s just ok. That said, you’ll need to build some cribbing to help hold the engine on the lift and if you want to get the engine high enough to fit to a stand.

I’m getting rid of mine and getting a lift table.


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+1 on getting a lift table if you can swing it. Makes dropping and putting back solo a breeze. Spend the coin on a good engine stand. Buy or borrow a proper adapter to mount the engine to the stand. The one our host sells worked well for me after a bit of "fitting" to the block. A Stomski circlip tool makes that task a snap. Other than an accurate dial indicator and digital caliper, the rest of the tools for checking/setting intermediate shaft gear lash, timing chain depth and cam timing/valve lash can be fabricated or are readily available at your local FLAPS. The videos from Kurt at Klassic ATS are an excellent resource for the home mechanic. Finally, clean everything until you would lick it like it contains your last meal, take your time to double and triple check everything, and be prepared to do a "dry run" assembly before closing the case for good and again for fitting the entire top end to verify ALL measurements are kosher before final seal-up.

Looking forward to following your journey. Remember, at the end of the day another average human built it the first time.

Can you recommend a particular lift table?

Any recommendations on the engine stand?

I got mine at harbor freight, was about $50 in 2019. The yoke is the important part had to modify mine a bit (slight grinding enlargement) accept the exhaust parts.

Some of Stomski's tools are well worth the cost.

I used jack stands raised up high and the habor freight MC jack. Cutout ply wood to fit under the engine (cutout for the front where the exhaust is and the lip of the engine case so it sits flat on the cart. Also have a cart to hold up the tranny if you are removing both.

Used the method of raising the car then lowering the car to set the engine on my MCjack, then raising the car to get the engine out from under.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750852646.jpg

Lots of help available here when your ready to pull it apart, just take your time, and inspect everything methodically as your removing it, label things your not sure about, and take plenty of picks as you go along for your own reference, they will come in handy when asking questions, and help with re-assembly etc.
Good luck with it :)
Ant.

I've always used an ATV jack with some 2x4s across the top to support the headers. From there I lower the 2x4s onto stacks of wood, then pile enough wood on top of the ATV jack to get it up to the right height to get the engine on an engine stand. If you're splitting the case you really want the appropriate Porsche yoke.

This is an excellent time to convince yourself to buy a quickjack or other lift to get the engine in and out. It's sooooo much easier just going up and down precisely with a button while also keeping the body level.

Totally this!

Good to see you considering a lift table. Mine is 1500 lb. Be careful with the lower rated ones as they could be jerky when lowering. Pairing it with a lift even better.
Before cleaning, inspect and note the dirty spots so you can figure out why they are leaking later. Dirt means oil leak that attracted the dirt.
Pictures. So many pictures and videos. I have a hundred more engine shots than grandchildren shots. lol

Should I get the engine yoke to mate the HF stand to the engine? PP has one but it is out of stock. The engine stand seems to have some sort of generic one.

https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-stand-59201.html

You really need the proper yoke. I like the heavy duty stand for stability and you can put a tray under it.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750872858.JPG

I bought the 1000lb unit from HF and it worked great. One slight mod a friend helped me make is to re-mount the folding handle so that it folds away from the table deck instead of towards. This allows you to not have to worry about clearance under the rear bumper/chassis. It requires you to use two hands to activate the lowering lever when the handle is lowered (one to hold tension on the cable guide and one to squeeze the lever) Easily reversible if needed in the future.

I already had a geared head 1000lb folding engine stand I bought from JEGS 10 or 12 years ago when I needed to R&R the 5.0L in my 928 S4. The key is to get something with a very stable and wide leg structure to minimize the risk of tipping the whole thing over when rotating the engine. I have a washing machine drain pan that I toss on the legs when doing engine work to keep the mess off the floor.

I mis-spoke about one item in my earlier post talking about special tools. You will need the large crowfoot wrench and cam holder to R&R the nuts securing the cam sprockets to the cams. A local enthusiast might have the set or perhaps a local shop would loan with a refundable deposit equal to replacement cost. Add your own 1/2" breaker bar and Bob's Ur Uncle.

Happy wrenching.

You can drill slots in the harbor freight engine mount to fit.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750901807.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750902459.jpg

Harbor freight lift table is great. You have to get the car higher than with most other options.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750902922.jpg

I didn’t take a picture but I was able to lift the motor and transmission on the table without the wheeled stool.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750902922.jpg

The manual from Wayne has arrived! A friend is bringing his mount/yoke over tomorrow, those should work.

Thinking about the lift table. I have previously dropped the engine for transmission, clutch, and CIS work using two lift jacks. But haven't had to lift it to a mount before.

No offence, but there is now way I would do this. You are now holding up the engine by the 4 holes in the case. When you use the proper yoke it presses against 2/3 of the case and spreads the weight out. The 4 bolts just keep it in position.
My 2 cents worth.