Anyone running Duracool (R12a)?

[nhromyak]

I can't find anyone who will rent out a vacuum machine.

I have tried all the local auto places. I have also tried Nations Rent, United Rentals and a few others that I forgot the names. I have also tried 1/3 of the HVAC businesses listed in the phone book. I have even tried to buy a vacuum pump from the HVAC SUPPLY houses. These guys have the $700 + dollar vacuum pumps intended for homes and business HVACs.

So I am still without a vacuum pump

Thanks for everyone's replies and input.

Oh yah, I found FREEZE-12 on ebay...
I also found a FREEZE-12 Dealer 70 miles away.

[Jim Sims]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2544025962&category=26218

There are others listed on E-bay; search using "vacuum pump"

Cheers, Jim

[emcon5]

Originally posted by 911pcars
consider that fuel lines don't run through the car interior like A/C lines tend to do. In addition, fuel is usually in a liquid state, not in a more combustible vapor form like refrigerant inside the evaporator (which sits inside the car).

On my 82 the high pressure fuel line runs through the tunnel, which is inside the passenger compartment. The A/C lines run under the car.

My argument is that if a fuel line ruptured, the most likely place would be the engine compartment (more lines there), where a volitile liquid can easily come in contact with multiple ignition sources, most notibly the hot exhaust. If an A/C line ruptures, it will most likely vent to atmosphere, (to me the under-car lines or the lines in the drivers wheel well seem most succeptable to damage) with no local ignition source. The propane/butane gas will also likely be scattered by the airflow in these locations. A leak in the engine compartment would also be dissipated by airflow from the engine fan.

I am not saying it is not a risk, but I am a lot more likely to get creamed by a latte-slurping-cellphone-jabbering-makeup-applying-kid-screaming-at-Lincoln-Leviathan-driving soccer mom than have a duracool fire.

Tom

[E Ray]

Nick,

I have a vac pump that my work for you, and I am rignt down the road, also very interested how this stuff works. I am planning on using it in the 930s A/C system when I get around to putting it back together. Let me know if you interested, and we can set something up.

Eric

[ruf-porsche]

Brought a vacuum pump at the local flea market for $30.00. I see people selling vacuum pump all the time at the flea market.

If you're in Chicago, on a Sunday morning go to the Maxwell Street Flea market on Canal Street between 18th and Roosevelt Rd.

I even saw a set of FUCHS there once but the guy wanted $250.00 for all four rims and tires.

[DG624]

I am waiting for something that works without destreoying the ozone or increasing global warming. I have used my AC only twice in four years mostly because it doesn't work. I thought about replacing it but it seems more trouble than it is worth. I keep it in case I want to sell the car.

[nhromyak]

Well DG, for only $700 you can have a shop do it.

The best part is, it should last for atleast two years.

[slakjaw]

asked a friend of mine who does alot of A/C work about Duracool and the costs of the 134 conversion. his response was "you can pay me now or can pay me later".

i think i can live without A/C for now.

LATE
K

[William89]

Well, I guess it's time for me to chime in with my $.02...
This board has been GREAT for me to learn about 911's with people writing about their ACTUAL experiences, so here's mine with no BS.

I recently bought a 148K mi. '83 SC that had been sitting for a while (my first Porsche). The engine had 2 broken head studs, but the car otherwise was in pretty good shape with a HUGE stack of receipts from maintenance and repairs throughout it's life.
I'm typically a DIY'er, but I had Protech motorsports in Greenville, SC perform a complete engine rebuild. They were good to deal with and the car ran well when I picked it up.

The weather here in SC has been 90 degrees with 90% humidity for a while now and AC is not an option, it's a necessity. The car had the original AC system with no R12 charge in the system (old york, hoses, etc). I've had 2 very bad experiences in the past with poor cooling on older R12 systems converted to 134a, so I thought I'd give the Duracool a try.
I knew the seal was shot on the york from the oil marks slinging on the hood, so I ordered a Sanden compressor kit, new drier, and 4 cans of Duracool. After installing the new compressor and drier, I pulled 29" HG vacuum on the system using my cheapie air-powered harbor freight venturi for about 30 minutes. The system held this vac. with no sign of leaking for about 15 minutes, so I added ~3 cans of Duracool until I had about 38psi on the low side (my high pressure gauge was on the fritz so I'm not sure what it was).

The bottom line is that the system now works quite well with ambient temps in the 90's. Vent temps feel as cold as any other car I've been in (I don't have a temp gauge to get actual #'s). Airflow in the cockpit is a different story however . I've ordered the $10 under-dash vent from www.yearwood.com to help this issue.
The system has held it's charge for a week now and is still going strong, but I'll probably check the pressures again in a couple of weeks to make sure I don't have a slow leak.
As a garage DIY'er, I have nothing but good things to say about the Sanden compressor and the Duracool refrigerant.

[emcon5]

Originally posted by slakjaw
his response was "you can pay me now or can pay me later".

Based on what?

Tom

[nhromyak]

Thanks for the info William.

So you used the vacuum pump that you hooked your air-tool compressor to - correct?

You system took 4 cans???
That's interesting.
Duracool specifies there 6 oz can = 17 oz of R12.
With that calculation my car (takes 39 oz) should only use 2 1/2 cans.
Do you know what your year requires for R12?

Thanks again.

[DG624]

nhromyak,

I bought seats instead. $700 is alot for something I don't use very often. My car is white and has dark factory window tint which really reduces the heat build-up. I think I may consider R134 but not until I get some other things fixed like rust or interior repair.

I talked to a repair shop in Texas that seemed to think the AC could be converted for much less than the $2000 quote I got here Col OH. I am very wary of repair because I think they feel I have big bucks with a 911. Does the $700 you mentioned cover all of the needed replacements to install R134?

[emcon5]

Saw this today:

$15 vacuum pump



You need a compressor though.

Tom

[nhromyak]

Originally posted by DG624
nhromyak,

I think I may consider R134 but not until I get some other things fixed like rust or interior repair.

Does the $700 you mentioned cover all of the needed replacements to install R134?

The $700 is for the conversion. It includes the R134a but no other REPAIRS (e.g. Compressor, or expansion valve replacement).

Saw this today:

$15 vacuum pump

You need a compressor though.

Tom


Tom - I have heard both good and bad about this pump. I have a friend near me who says it has worked well for five cars.

Then I have heard others say, it's not worth the $15!

I have heard many people on www.ackits.com who say it didn't work for them adequately enough.

I have a friend who WAS and A/C guy, and he has this pump and says it works OK but not well enough for A/C systems.

Maybe it's worth a shot.

[William89]

I wasn't sure how much R12 my system took, so I ordered 4 cans to be safe. I only used ~2 3/4 cans.

That's the same $15 vac. pump unit I used. It pulled my system down to ~29ish "HG after 10 minutes or so, but I kept it going for 30 min to be safe. The key is keeping the air supply at least 90psi.

William