Issues w/ Adapt Motorsports Fuse Panel Install on 930

[LucaScali]

So on the late 80s 930s, the panel still needs the bridge between fuses 5 & 6, and of course there are no dedicated lugs for the orphan wires.

This means that fuse position #5 has to carry the adjacent orphan wires, the bridge, and the two wires. It was a challenge, but I finally made it work.

The problem is that while the LED for #6 is green, the relays don't click and the car won't start.

Every other component on the car works and all the LEDs are green.

I just can't start the car! Before the swap, everything fired normally. Everything seems to be wired correctly, and everything else works, as I mentioned. What could be going on?

Any ideas would be appreciated. It's a bit frustrating. Crickets from Adapt so far.

[Jeff Alton]

How long have the crickets been happening?

Cheers

[Tonger]

Originally Posted by LucaScali

So on the late 80s 930s, the panel still needs the bridge between fuses 5 & 6, and of course there are no dedicated lugs for the orphan wires.

This means that fuse position #5 has to carry the adjacent orphan wires, the bridge, and the two wires. It was a challenge, but I finally made it work.

The problem is that while the LED for #6 is green, the relays don't click and the car won't start.

Every other component on the car works and all the LEDs are green.

I just can't start the car! Before the swap, everything fired normally. Everything seems to be wired correctly, and everything else works, as I mentioned. What could be going on?

Any ideas would be appreciated. It's a bit frustrating. Crickets from Adapt so far.

I just installed one in my 930 and if you are counting from left to right the top lugs for fuses 2 through 5 are internally connected on the PC board from Adapt. This means that the tops of fuses 2 though 5 are all electrically the same - so if you need to spread the wires out a little, you can use any pin 2 through 5.

The top of fuse 6 is supposed to be connected to a constant 12V and the bottom of fuse 6 goes to the relay panel to the shared 30A leads for each of the two red fuel pump relays. For supply to the top of fuse 6, you can either run a jumper from the top of fuse 5 or run a new heavy duty 12v wire straight from to the battery to the top of fuse 6 without the 5-6 jumper.

For diagnostic purposes, I would check both of my red relay (fuel pump) sockets to see if the 30A pin has 12V power on both.

If they have 12V then the #6 fuse is working properly.

[Ian Comerford]

I don’t know if this helps but I fitted a Classicretrofit fuse panel to my SC about 7 years ago. I’m not electrically gifted so just followed the instal advice and swapped every wire over into exactly the same position as it was in my car. Made sense but it wouldn’t start. It became obvious that the new panel was designed to work with a standard, from factory, wiring set up but mine had the fuel pump wiring in a different place. Returning it to factory position resulted in it working. Could this be your problem?

[LucaScali]

Ok, so Adapt informed me that 2 to 5 are internally connected, as Tonger said. I moved the power feed from #4 to #3, and the orphan wires from #4 to #3. The two wires that normally go in #5 stayed in #5 and I bridged #5 to #6 using the factory copper bridge. No luck.

I then thought the problem was the bridge, so I used stranded wire as instructed by Adapt. Still no luck. Here are pics of both setups. Maybe someone can spot the mistake.

@Jeff Alton

Only 2 days. They got back to me today with acknowledgment that their design still requires the bridge, and said they would update the instructions. They also explained that 2-5 are internally connected and suggested it would be a good idea to reposition some wires.

[LucaScali]

Also tried it this way; wire bridging 5 and 6.

[LucaScali]

Originally Posted by Ian Comerford

I don’t know if this helps but I fitted a Classicretrofit fuse panel to my SC about 7 years ago. I’m not electrically gifted so just followed the instal advice and swapped every wire over into exactly the same position as it was in my car. Made sense but it wouldn’t start. It became obvious that the new panel was designed to work with a standard, from factory, wiring set up but mine had the fuel pump wiring in a different place. Returning it to factory position resulted in it working. Could this be your problem?

it's possible i got something wrong (wouldn't be the first time!), but the fuel pump circuit has always been at fuse #6. How had your car been wired before you updated the panel?

[Tonger]

I can't take credit for the diagrams but they might be helpful in running down each individual pin. I am also attaching photos of my panel in case you want to compare. I jumpered the 5 and 6 fuses with a large red wire.

The bottom of fuse 6 goes directly to pin 30 of both of your red fuel pump relays.

You should have 12V on the top of fuse 6, the bottom of fuse 6, and on pin 30 of both red fuel pump relays.

[LucaScali]

Thank you, Tonger. Looks like you have a 12v feed going into the top of #6. I'm missing that wire. Could you please look at how mine is setup now and tell me where it might be? Is one of the red wires now in #5 the 12v that should go in #6? If they're bridged, does it matter?

[Tonger]

Originally Posted by LucaScali

Thank you, Tonger. Looks like you have a 12v feed going into the top of #6. I'm missing that wire. Could you please look at how mine is setup now and tell me where it might be? Is one of the red wires now in #5 the 12v that should go in #6? If they're bridged, does it matter?

Electrically it should all be the same. One of the red wires was in #5 on my original panel and I moved it to #6 and also added the red jumper. I did this to space the wires out a little bit.

If you look at my original configuration, there were four +12V wires going into the top of the jumpered section from #2 though #6. I'm attaching that 'before' photo below - please ignore the annotation.

[LucaScali]

Thanks, Tonger. I was able to resolve the spacing issue based on what you said and support from Adapt. It looks good now.

Adapt tells me the fuel pump relays are activated by a blue wire 10/11. I'm going to check it out.

[LucaScali]

Problem solved. The little blue wire was in the wrong place. It was actually 4 over thanks to my half-assed labeling job. Car starts and runs perfectly.

Thanks to Ruari at Adapt Motorsports for the excellent product support. The entire panel lights up green.

Only change I notice is now the fuel pumps are not bliped or primed in the ACC key position. Any idea why that is or if it even matters?