Carbon fiber shroud and engine "sheet metal" are great but too pricey for what you are getting (my take anyway). I replaced the heater nozzles with "clear" fiberglass ones which look quite cool (at least while they are clean!)

How do I post a sound clip? I'm really going to tape it ah.....

Yeah, I just checked on the price of a new red shroud from Porsche, stock part is over $300. I am weary of painting. Guess I'll give it a cleaning and leave as is.

Of course now is the time to do it as the carbs are not yet mounted on my motor yet.

im gald im not the only person who gets hard over a picture of a shiney engine

Looks very sweet.

I am wondering what the "weak link" is in these high-strung small race engines that results in the frequent refreshing? Is it anything that could be addressed with better valvetrain gear, rods, hardware (head studs), or ???

I might bite the bullet on a rebuild or new engine in a few months but like many of us, I need this thing to last me a couple of seasons minimum. I may be delusional, but I would like to also retain the "option" of maybe 10-20 hours a year of fun run and p-car event running too. Not sure I would be very inclined to take a Saturday canyon fun run if it would cost me $1K in engine lifespan...yikes

Short life is a direct result of spinning it fast. Bearing loads are much higher in the extreme 8000 RPM+ region. The weight of the reciprocating parts at high RPM is trying to rip the engine apart. Hydrodynamic lubrication is compromised and the metal wears fast.

Lightweight pistons and rods help to reduce bearing loads. Oil cooling is also critical to prevent loss of oil viscosity. Key to long engine life is keeping the engine in a state of hydrodynamic lubrication, this is broken down by high bearing loads and hot oil.

If you keep your RPM reasonable and oil cool you can get a whole lot more that 30 hours and multiple seasons on an engine.

Of course the high RPM guys will have more HP and will win the races.

"Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?"

A bit on hydrodynamic lubrication. The peice doesn't really get into bearing loads, but it is clear how increasing load thins the lubrication layer.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1061957617.jpg
click

Hmmm, think we narrowly avoided a discussion of inematic viscosity here....

re the ugly shroud -- Run it thru your wife's dish washer, then -- get some polish for fibergalls from a boat shop or a hardware store. You'll be impressed.

Thanks guys...I'll keep researching. I do seem to have the oil cooling thing handled pretty well, thanks to the mondo setup installed by Ottos a few months ago. So far I actually haven't been able to get it over 200° even at desert track events with 105+ ambient temps.

I can't afford a lot of exotic innards at this point, so the rev limiter will have to stay well below 8K. Displacement will probably be 2.4-2.5L unless the rules keep it smaller.

Good oil and plenty of cooling capacity is a must (so are High RPMs and power for me). Currently I have, the engine mounted cooler and two front mounted coolers, this setup has proven more than adequate in the past. If I run into problems I'll run and get me some of Chuck's finned lines (superb Idea!!!).

I think part of the life expectancy on those rocket 2.0L is that the pistons are nearly kissing the heads... With the increased RPM, expansion, and bearing wear, eventually they do I think...

Regarding the sound clip:

I've never done it but it seems relatively simple.

If you have a laptop with Windows and microphone (many have them built-in) simply place the laptop at the rear of the car.....a few feet away at least.

In Windows...
Click on START and select PROGRAMS....ACCESSORIES.....ENTERTAINMENT....SOUND RECORDER.

Click on the Record button when in Sound Recorder and jump in the car, start her up and record the engine's music.

When done click the stop button and save file as.... "Filename".Wav

You'll have to upload the file somewhere and provide a link where we can download.

Hope this isn't too rudimentary.

Chuckw951- check out what Chuck Miller did in this thread on the Early 911S Registry site for some tips on restoring your shroud.

Juan- if you make the sound clip, I would be happy to host it on my website- just email it to me.

TT

Thanks for this tip. I recently purchased some fiberglass compound from the company that makes the "speedy metal polish." The compound worked really well on my tired fan shroud. The metal polish is doing wonders for my fan...I'll post some pics after I give it some additional elbow grease...

Tom,

I'll make some recordings and sends them to yuo for posting. I have not been able to get around to it due to some medical and business situations that are taking the best of my time.

Thanks much, Juan

Did scotty from the 901 shop have anythign to do with your motor?? I'm not far away,so i know alittle bit about them. The 901 shop is top notch, one of the best :)

901 Shop ported, polished and twin plugged the heads. They are also doing chassis setup, provided the hot cams (Jack's custom cams), are doing the final jetting and steered us in the right direction for pistons, ...

All assembly, ... done by Gulf Performance in Pompano Beach

Had things happened differently, Jack would have done all the work, that was the plan. I took the car in to Gulf (who do all the work on my street cars) to correct some leaks and found out all sorts of problems. Basically I was the victim of a shrewd seller and the car was not what promised. The PPI said all was well (what a bunch of cr_p).

Anyhow, 901 Shop great bunch of guys with lots of experience!

hey juan,

when will you take that thing to moroso, i'd love to hear it in person!!

looks great BTW!!

doug waters

Doug,

ASAP.............................................. ....... I'll post here accordingly.

Cheers, Juan