Unfortunately, i've had a bit of a setback in the watershields. I was using the corner of a friends shop to do the molds and fiberglass work - I could do work there in exchange for doing some work on his cars.

In short - he went belly up and I spent a frantic night moving my supplies / molds out of the shop before the locks were changed. At this point, I'm looking for my own shop to continue work on this and other projects but it will be a bit before I can set up again.

I guess the fortunate thing are the two posts above that show a couple of alternatives that could be used.

Regards,
Andrew M

Alright, time to flog a hopefully un-dead horse: Andrew- any luck getting going again? Is there anyone besides me that will never feel complete without a set of fiberglass watershields on my MFI?
-Scott

mfi watershields
 

I'm still interested!
I've still got my car half torn apart for other winter projects.
Let me know!
Rock

Other than weight, is there any reason a standard K&N/Watershield set-up for Webers like is sold here on Pelican Wont fit my 70 MFI. (modified to accept the brass squirTers)
Of course, if the fiberglass is similarly priced, Iwould love to have the weight savings :D

You have to cut the left side hat to fit around the barometric cell and the injector lines. It takes about 10 minutes with a Dremel and then repaint. Other than that, it is a direct fit. I modified mine for built in cold start squirters.

Paul

modification for cold start
 

Paul,
Would you mind posting a picture or two of the modifications you made for buit-in cold start squirters. Thanks!
Rocky

Sure, here goes.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1074122965.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1074122973.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1074122981.jpg

pictures of cold start squirter mods
 

Paul,
Thanks for the pictures!
I'm going to order the parts and make this modification to my engine this winter.
Rocky

cold start squirter fittings
 

Paul,
Do you remember what the fitting looked like that you used on the hose to squirt the raw fuel into the stacks? Plastic? Brass? Opening size into the stacks? Etc.
Thanks!
Rocky

Do you guys think modifying the filter shown below would be as straight forward as P-Thomas' watershield mod?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1074279791.jpg

Andrew, if you like, I can help you with some laminating, until you get your shop going that is.. I am currently tooling up for 993 bits.. Let me know if I can help.. I am in SoCal area BTW

Chris

Rocky,
I used the smallest vaccuum fitting that NAPA caried and the smallest hose that would squeeze onto the fittings. I used 3 "T" fittings and 3 "L" fittings. It is pretty stright forward, the gas shoots straight down the stack. It work very well.

Derek,
It would be the same, the only difference between the two is the rain hat has the extended lip.

Paul

Believe it or not, each PMO watershield weighs 1.8 lbs. -- that means you can save nearly 3 lbs off the rear by going to a lightwt. plastic.

I think the older watershileds weighed less, but the new ones are very heavy.

I'm still interested in the amber

I agree with Randy. The Watershields use thick sheet metal and are heavier than they need to be. The version in the photo by Derek (tops and bottoms) are a lot lighter. Not sure if FG or CF is of any significant weight advantage over these. However, there might be an advantage fabricating a CF of FG MFI version compared with stamped sheet metal.

Derek,
I was looking at an MFI engine last week with the cast aluminum base and top versions (same configuration as your photo, but cast al). Per P-Thomas' photo, the cold start mechanism presses inward against the filter element. It's only on the Watershield covers where there's metal-to-metal interference. Not sure if there's enough space between the 3 intake stacks and the filter element to fabricate an offset base to clear the Watershield top.

Sherwood

Sherwood,
I can't picture what you are talking about but it sounds interesting. Where did you see it?

The watershields weigh a ton, that is no BS. Unfortunately ther just arent a whole lot of choices on the market. Hank Godfredson at GT Racing makes air cleaners like this but they are not cheap. I have been wanting to experiment with fiberglass lately, this is making me want to do it more.

I think you could just make a mold out of wood, put Reynolds wrap or something on it so it doesnt stick and lay the glass over it. You could use 3/4" hardwood, 12" long, 5" wide and round on the ends. Hmmmmm. To the Bat Cave!

Paul

P-Thomas -- A guy with the moniker Carbon Joe makes beautiful watershields out of carbon fiber. There are previous posts on Pelican about him and showing photos. I don't know if you need MFI ones, but they do fit carbs.

"I can't picture what you are talking about but it sounds interesting. Where did you see it?"

P-Thomas,
Not sure what part of my rambling message you're not able to picture. If you're referring to the MFI setup I saw, it had the cast aluminum K&N housings and K&N filters.

If you're referring to modifying the K&N base, you can start with a blank piece of aluminum stock and recreate the bolt pattern, but offset the throttle openings over to one side. When mounted, the air filter housing sits left of "center" on the MFI stack.

Am I close?

Sherwood

installing k&n filter/watershields kit
 

Paul,
Thanks for the iinfo on the fuel squirter hose and fittings! I just received the complete k&n filter/watershields kit from p-parts and am starting the install. The old air cleaner assembly has a small hose attached to the bottom that is approx. 10" long and 3/8" id. I haven't figured out what to do with this hose. I've searched archives here for info and/or pictures, but found no reference as to what type hose it is or its purpose. Do you know what its purpose was on the old air cleaner assembly or remember what you did during your install? Thanks!
Rocky

Please keep me in the loop on this project also.Would love to have something besides stock on my 2.7 RS. Randy