3.6 Has Landed!!!

[surflvr911sc]

The title of this thread should probably be “How to get a 911 engine out of the truck by yourself”.

Picked up the engine today. Got to the expeditors at 10:45, then went to Customs, picked up the engine, and was on the way home w/ a 500lbs box in the back of the truck by noon.

When I got home, I never expected to actually get it out of the truck by myself. I set one side of the engine stand on my atv jack and the other on a bunch of wood. It took two hours of adjusting here, lifting there, finally I decided to go for it and slid it out of the box. YoooHoooo! There it stood in the middle of the garage, my “new” ’93 964 3.6 engine.


I got this engine from Harald in Germany. He only came across it about a month ago. I have almost all my parts and pieces to do the conversion w/out a kit so I guess it’s now time to get busy.


The engine tin on the left side was pretty rusty and it needs to be replaced. What do the 3.6 conversion guys know about changing the tin to the early style and what would be needed to make it fit? I’ve heard about the fiberglass pieces that sound like they would be a good alternative, any advice or experience w/ those?


Two of the bolts that hold on the left side tin were also rusted. One broke when I went to loosen it, the other was too rusted to get the socket on. I went to easy out them and now have one w/ a drill bit broke off in it and the other has an easy out broken off in it. That’s when I decided to cal it a night, any advice?

I also need to get this oil line off. The piece that it mounts to is spinning w/ it and there isn’t enough room to get a wrench on it. Any ideas before I take the dremel to it?


I have a lot of work to do but I’m really excited now that the engine is here. Harald was great to deal w/ as I knew he would be. I’m sure I’ll have more questions along the way.

[Alan.UK]

Congrats Ryan,

I also have a 93 964 motor waiting to be transplanted so I am sure that I will be contacting you and others for help and advice. Do I remember you saying that you have bought B&B headers ? did you also choose the muffler ?

As for the tin ware I am missing all of it and also the motor mount cross bar. I am hoping that the response to this thread indicates that early stuff can be used ?

Good luck, and when your finsihed if you or any other 3.6 conversion guy wants a free holiday in England then please feel free to come over and help me put this 3.6 in a 73 E.

Alan.UK

[Bob's Flat-Six]

Hey Ryan,
Kool, the box has landed. Now just relax and don't break anymore bit's.
Doesn't rust suck, it's just natures way of frickin with you.
You might have to keep drilling around the bit's if you can and size up the hole if possible?
Maybe some heat to the area if you can get a grip on the bolts. Tapping with a hammer can help too.
It's a special feeling when you get a rusted bolt to back out with out breaking off

[Doug Zielke]

Harald sure builds a nice crate!

[LeeH]

When I first started reading this I was expecting to see that you let the air out of the truck's tires!

[Kevin Stewart]

on the oil line on the back of the motor it is threaded and will just inscrew withe the line the take it it apart and put it back in the motor before you install the new oil pipe, you can see my 3.6 conversion threads or E-mail me at stew09@aol.com for any info, Kevin

[Vipergrün]

Yeah baby! So, when's the install party? I tell you what, driving Ingo's car started getting me thinking

[surflvr911sc]

Alan, I went w/ the B&B + the B&B single out muffler. The cost of the whole set was <$200 over just getting headers & install kit. I don't know anyone that has really tried the single out and for less than $200 I thought I'd give it a try. You are welcome to any engine tin that I have left over, I think that will be most of it.

Bob, it's not looking good, I was getting tired and needed to call it night. I'll hit those bolts again when I'm fresh.

Lee- LOL! I really thought about that! I was thinking about jacking the front of the truck up too.

Kevin, no dice. If you look at the pic you can see that b/c of the bend in the pipe, it wont clear the engine so it can be threaded out.

Brad, you know you want one, come to the dark side.

[Kevin Stewart]

it will still thread out, the elbow should turn if not, you will get a new one with timmins kit sawzall it off, ill send you my old one if you need it, Kevin

[Kevin Stewart]

ps you might as well give in to the oil coolers if you dont have one, also replace the rear seal, check the valves so you need a valve gasket set, i would look ins ide the distributor and see what shape the belts in, if you dont have the vent hose for the side, you really need the up date and maybe replace the belt, i know the early 3.6's dodnt have it, Kevin

[Bill Verburg]

f/g and carbon fiber pieces are available to replace the tin, for the life of me I can't remember where I saw them though. Otherwise Dr.T did a lot of cut and fit. Here are some pics of mine that may help

[Langers]

Robert Linton over at the Rennlist 993 forum has made carbon fibre "sheet metal" for the 3.6L engine. Perhaps contact him... CF will never rust, and it saves you weight at the most important end of the car!

[Tyson Schmidt]

Ryan, I don't want to scare you, but in light of all that rust on the sheetmetal, you'd be crazy not to check for broken head studs while the engine is out. Pull the cam covers, adjust the valves, and check to make sure all the head studs can take torque.

It would also be wise to replace all the externally replaceable seals and o-rings.

[surflvr911sc]

Bill, great pics, I needed those!

Tyson, already in the plans as scary as it is. One of the head studs that I can see at the #3 exhaust (below the sheet metal level) has some corrosion (Rust) on the barrel nut. That’s the same stud that broke on my 3.6.

What size 12 point is that for the head studs? Just when you think you have all the tools.

[scottb]

Ryan: Congrats on the new powerplant. Don't get discouraged...consider these hassles akin to those that happen when you start a new business. You'll overcome them and be rockin' and rollin' in no time.

I'm sure you've got some (or a lot), but in case you don't I'd invest heavily in P'Blaster. It's magic stuff. Spray it liberally over your rusted parts. Let 'em sit overnight, and then try again the next morning. Heat might help, but be careful because the P'Blaster is flammable (I think).

So, when's the install party?

Scott

[pbs911]

Looks familiar. I dub thee the "official So Cal picker-upper of Harald 3.6s."

[Embs]

Originally posted by Bill Verburg
f/g and carbon fiber pieces are available to replace the tin, for the life of me I can't remember where I saw them though. Otherwise Dr.T did a lot of cut and fit. Here are some pics of mine that may help

Smart Racing Has the fiberglass engine tin replacement:

http://www.smartracing.net/ProdCat/Unique%20Products/Unique%20Products.htm

[Alan.UK]

Hi

Does anyone know if you can adapt early tin-ware to fit the 964 motor?
Also Ryan what heater cross over pipe do you use with the B&B headers?
Finally I do not have either the engine cross bar mount or what that bolts to on the engine (whats that called) so does anyone know what parts I can use, SC 32....

My 964 has 3 lower pulleys, if I go for a single top pulley do all 3 lower pulleys stay ?

Sorry for all the questions, but its monday morning and chatting porsches is a great distraction.

The donor car is now set - 1973 E engine is a late 964.

Alan.UK

[KTL]

Ryan,

Just curious how the drill bit managed to break? The engine tin screws are not super high strength and should drill somewhat easily. Did you drill them dry? If so, that'll get things hot in a hurry. Cutting and tapping fluid will reduce heat, cut cleaner and reduce the flying of the metal shavings.

Not that it'd be all that cheap, but you could always buy replacement OE sheetmetal if you only needed a few pieces.

Good luck! Take your time too.

[rfix'n]

Alan,

I used the stock 964 heater crossover pipe with the B&B heat exchangers.

Rob