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Sports Purpose 911 Driver
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: La Jolla, CA
Posts: 4,368
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the saga continunes - finding the problem with my 3.2
Ok, for those of you that have read my other posts (shouts for help!) :-) I have an update, here is the background. My engine is cutting out after about 15 minutes of driving. I have changed the following parts:
1. DME relay 2. Fuel pump 3. AFM 4. Coil 5. Plugs, wires, rotor & cap 6. Cyl. Head temp. sensor 7. reference/impuse sensor I have checked my grounds and all are good. So it seems that I'll need a DME. Can anyone loan me a DME to check to make sure that is the problem before I buy one? Does anyone know a reputable shop that services them? In general, what do you guys think this issue is? Thanks --James |
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Back in the saddle again
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Central TX west of Houston
Posts: 55,964
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Generally with this type of thing (car brains in general, not necessarily Porsche DME specific) heat builds up in the brain and then it dies until it can cool off much like a PC would do. I wonder if you could put some sort of cold pack or dry ice or something on the dme and get it to run more than 15 minutes. Personally if that lengthened the time that it took for the car to shutdown I would feel comfortable with the DME being the problem.
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Steve '08 Boxster RS60 Spyder #0099/1960 - never named a car before, but this is Charlotte. '88 targa ![]() |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 4,403
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It may be totally un-related, but did you ever check you catalytic converter?
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Sports Purpose 911 Driver
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: La Jolla, CA
Posts: 4,368
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no. I am not sure how I can check it? One thing that I can tell you is that the problem as gotten worse since I have owned the car (1.5 years) and drive about 5K over that time.
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James Shira R Gruppe # 271 1972 911 Coupe 3.8 RS ‘nbr two’ 1972 911 Coupe 3.2 TwinPlug MFI 'Tangerina-Jolie' 1955 356 Pre A Coupe ‘old red’ 1956 356A Emory speedster build in progress |
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Registered
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I had a similar problem with my Datsun 280Z which has the forrunner to the 3.2's system, I chased it for months trying to avoid spending $300+ on a new box. Finally I went to a junk yard and bought one for $30, problem solved. Too bad you can't go a buy a Porsche box at a junk yard for that much.
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2014 Cayman S (track rat w/GT4 suspension) 1979 930 (475 rwhp at 0.95 bar) |
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Sports Purpose 911 Driver
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: La Jolla, CA
Posts: 4,368
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no kidding!
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James Shira R Gruppe # 271 1972 911 Coupe 3.8 RS ‘nbr two’ 1972 911 Coupe 3.2 TwinPlug MFI 'Tangerina-Jolie' 1955 356 Pre A Coupe ‘old red’ 1956 356A Emory speedster build in progress |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Washington state
Posts: 893
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Do you mean the tach needle drops and everything is dead? My SC did this in hot weather with the Permatune internal coil box in it. After a while the guilty resistor would reset, and the car would run for a while, then repeat. Random time pattern though. I put the stock fifteen year old Bosch unit back in and it hasn't happened since.
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'80 SC |
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Sports Purpose 911 Driver
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: La Jolla, CA
Posts: 4,368
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it turns out that the problem was the DME. I just drove down here to Charlotte and it was perfect!
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James Shira R Gruppe # 271 1972 911 Coupe 3.8 RS ‘nbr two’ 1972 911 Coupe 3.2 TwinPlug MFI 'Tangerina-Jolie' 1955 356 Pre A Coupe ‘old red’ 1956 356A Emory speedster build in progress |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 4,403
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Glad you found the problem.
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Sports Purpose 911 Driver
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: La Jolla, CA
Posts: 4,368
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it is a huge load off my back, thanks
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James Shira R Gruppe # 271 1972 911 Coupe 3.8 RS ‘nbr two’ 1972 911 Coupe 3.2 TwinPlug MFI 'Tangerina-Jolie' 1955 356 Pre A Coupe ‘old red’ 1956 356A Emory speedster build in progress |
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