Sprint, THX. Searching ebay now to see what I can find....

I found a couple pictures of a factory slant nose. This is what they look like under the hood with the single 924/944 headlight motor mounted in the center. The cross bar is a 924/944 cross bar slightly modified and adjustable links on the side attaching to the headlight units.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1067231418.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1067231458.jpg

Is that a DELCO battery?!

Does that whole thing drive off of a single motor?

Err... Are Delco batteries no good?

Yes, the whole thing is driven by a single motor. But I thought the motor is by the side, not center?

Hmm... Anyway, the 924/944/928 and I believe the 968 use the same motor so, you have lotsa places to hunt for parts! :)

Sprint.

Yep, it's the same MOTOR as the 944, but the transmission for the assembly is differant. I believe the ouput rotates the opposite direction as a 944 motor.
Is it possible you could spring load the buckets of the headlights when they are fully upright. This would take any sloppiness out of the linkage and with the spring preload, no jiggly lights.

If you springload the bucket then you'll kill the motors or blow fuses.

Mr.Bch, try taking a pic of the mechanism after removing the fender lid. It only takes four screws. Aside from the various linkage woes the Mazda motors have inherent play in the drive shaft. Retrofitting another car's single mechanism will be the ultimate winter project as it will take all winter.

IMO, the Mazda lights were probably developed by one of the first aftermarket fabricators and then copied by all the rest. I think they all have this problem...along with round lights that do not come up far enough over the bumper.

OK... Pics coming up. I will try and post one tonight, but time is short. By tomorrow night for sure. Actually, only 3 screws on my ass'y.

It looked like a drive motor in the center of the bar next to the hood latch.

PICS of my popups.


first pic.... This is how far up my beams go. Don't have an illumination problem. Low level cutoff is acceptable. They use early 90s Camaro lamps.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1067303024.jpg


This is the bucket from inside the fener. Rather large. Actually displaces one of the oil lines from the inner fender mounts. On a side note, I really like my 996 calipers (that was my summer project, made the adapters myself). Not happy with the rust forming on the discs, though. :mad: :(


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1067303095.jpg


This is my assembly as it comes out of the bucket. The ass'y is upside down. There are 3 hole that mount the ass'y and one hole to mount the relay.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1067303204.jpg

And....

here is the troublesome assembly.

The 3 studs sticking out the rear mount to the inner fender. This part is rigid and doesn't have any flex. The motor bolts to this and that part is really rigid, too.
The problem child is the zinc plated shoulder bolt you can see that attaches the arm to the rigid 3-bolt bracket (lid section). Bad design. Were they expecting a bronze bushing to act as a slide bushing without wearing out in a few flicks of the light switch?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1067303518.jpg


Here is a back view. At the top, you can see 2 pivot points that the lid pivots up around. These pivots aren't terrible, as they are used as a true pivot and don't see a lot of force opened or closed.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1067303609.jpg

Here is a view of the motor.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1067303765.jpg

So these are my pics. Let's here some input and keep this thread alive. Like I previously stated, this is by far and away the worst, most annoying part of my car. I have the ability to design and build aything at my shop. That is what I do, design tooling for the auto industry. With everyone's input, I will find a way to make some really good, retro fit lamps for anyone stricken with this same issue that I have. And thanks to all for responding, I appreciate it!

Sorry to hijack your thread, but what discs are those? Factory 911 discs or 930 ones? I'm interested in such an upgrade too. How do they stop? Hehe... I think we should talk thru PM. :)

As for the rust on the rotors. One solution I use is lightly sand the rotors to remove rust and then spray clear coat all over it, especially on the areas which the pad does not bite on. Alternatively you may choose to use silver paint.

The purpose of the paint is to coat the parts of the rotors such that no rust will form due to the caliper not biting on that part of the surface. I won't worry about overspray as as soon as the pads bite, the paint on the rotor surface that the pad comes into contact with will be gone, leaving only the parts which the caliper can't reach and protecting it. :)

Sprint.

I did a simular treatment except I had them powder coated then had the disc's turned a few thou to bring back bare steel, ps watch those drilled rotors for cracks.

keith 87 slant nose cabriolet wide body carrera

email keithepperly@earthlink.net for pic's I,m sorry I still can't figure out how to post photos.

just as i thought, the three bolts are actually top and bottom,, it bolts to the back of the box,not the bottom, the back plate is flexingrun a piece of round tubbing to the back of the box to stiffen it, it will work, Kevin

The calipers are 996 ones. I found them on ebay, in new condition for 225. They are the rear 996s and bolt up to the thicker Carerra rotor (as compared to my SC). THey use nearly the same piston area, so no change in prop valving. I am considering moving them to the rear and finding a pair of 996 N/A calipers for the front. I can supply you with adapters for cheap and info if you'd like.

I have a powder coating set-up. Looks like another winter project (coat the rotors).

Kevin, there really isn't any flex in my fenders or buckets. That 5 sided box is rigid. The bushing that goes for the ride in the slot is where all my slop is. I pressed in an oversized bushing thius spring and it was great but lasted about a month. 97% of my headlight flutter is in that pivot.

Kepperly, to post photos, click on the icon that says POST REPLY, instead of typing in the 'post quick reply' box. Then you get an option to 'attach multiple'. Click on that and brows to your photos. Make sure you edit them down to less than 100k.

Covering a lot of topics here!

Mr Bch,

Those assemblies sure look familiar.
Any clue who's components were used for your conversion? (Golden Coachworks, Sport Perfomance, German Auto, etc....?)

Also, the rectangular lights were desirable from the standpoint that they would clear the bumper and have an unobstructed pathway for illumination. The Round (factory style) lights take quite a bit of fiddling to get to an acceptable level.

I don't know whose they are. The guy who sold it to me (from L.A.) said that one of his dad's Porsche shop owner-friends did the conversions. Wasn't much help with names. I wish I knew.

Has anyone contacted or know of all the conversion co's that did slants in the 80-90's and if any kept any records.

Keith Epperly

I did all of the R&D at American International Racing in Burbank during the late 70's and 80's. We were the ones who first offered aftermarket slant nose fenders although they were fiberglass. Most of the aftermarket guys used (copied) our system for the headlights. I really don't think any of the manufacturers are still around today to offer any help.

My recollection was that Sport Performance out of San Jose, CA did the first steel fenders with lights. At least the announcement that one could get this done to their 911 was made by VW/Porsche magazine and they mentioned them as the first conversion shop in the US. They made their own parts out of steel.

The first FG fenders out of AIR had no headlights built in. I think they were in the air dam or bumpers ala 935. I thionk I still have an early catalog.

There were LOTS of fabricators and conversion shops. Most used Italian front fenders, flat sheet steel with cut and pressed louvers (or without). One member was going to call Golden Coachworks out of Golden, IN for some rear extensions with louvers. Not sure if they got through as I was under the impression that they were out of business for quite a while.

Now we're talking!!! Will PM ya later...

Sprint.

Hi mr.bch,
I am aware that this thread has ben a while back, so not sure if you are still around but if you are, may I ask a question. Looking at these pic of your headlight motor, it look exactly the same as mine. On the motor body, it said ASMO and there are some other number such as 023, 8311.00, and R5. It also has the gold color sticker with Japanese characters. If you know where to get these motors, or any other motor which can be bolt in place, please let me know.
Thanks.