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Cab Stiffening Idea

I've had a couple of ideas for stiffening up my cab, and was too lazy to go to the gym tonight, so I executed one of them.

Basically it's a simple bar that goes between where the seat belt retractors used to be. It's .125 square mild steel tubing - just had it laying around. I chose this over round stock so I can make a shelf out of it, ala RS America.

I had to cut the support in half and weld it in the car, because I couldn't get it in otherwise.

Next I'll figure a way to tie it into the roll bar, but I want to keep the roll bar removable. I'm also not 100% certain that's the best way to route the belts.

Before I put this brace in, I could push on the area by the stock cab belt mount and visibly move the body and make it squeak. Not any more!




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Old 10-29-2003, 08:01 PM
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You are just a fabricating machine! Cool! Any progress or more ideas for the door bar?
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Old 10-29-2003, 08:09 PM
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I clicked on the subject, expecting to see this, again:



But that's good work, Thom.
Old 10-29-2003, 09:00 PM
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I'm having a hard time trying to imagine how that sqr tubing is going to add any meaningful stiffness.
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Old 10-29-2003, 09:06 PM
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Hey...they used my car for that ad.

My car gets it stiff enough already... but I like the ideas if I were ever to track it.
Old 10-29-2003, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by island911
I'm having a hard time trying to imagine how that sqr tubing is going to add any meaningful stiffness.
I agree. I think you just added weight to the car....

Mike
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Old 10-30-2003, 04:48 AM
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Quote:
Before I put this brace in, I could push on the area by the stock cab belt mount and visibly move the body and make it squeak. Not any more!
Did y'all miss this part?
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Old 10-30-2003, 04:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by BlueSkyJaunte
Did y'all miss this part?
No. I just didn't understand the *performance* benefit of eliminating the squeak. :>)

Mike
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Old 10-30-2003, 05:22 AM
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A squeak is a flex...no squeaky, no flexy.....
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Old 10-30-2003, 06:12 AM
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The goal is to reduce longitudinal flex, which results in squeaking among other things. I've accomplished this to a degree. As part of my test last night, I did some speed bumps, and noticed that I don't get as much shake when the last wheel comes down off the bump.

The other changes I noticed are a more solid sound and feel when I close the doors, and now the passenger-side window is no longer aligned perfectly with the top rubber - I'd spent hours getting that right. In hindsight, maybe I should have done the welding with the top up...

So yes, I added a few pounds, but I think I improved the overall stiffness of the chassis. Is the tradeoff worth it? We'll find out on 11/9 when I take it to Sears Point.

(edited for spelink)
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Last edited by widebody911; 10-30-2003 at 08:08 AM..
Old 10-30-2003, 07:48 AM
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Thom:
You indeed may have improved the rigidity...but I tend to agree with the voices that say a cross brace will do less improvement than the lack of stiffness in the longitudinal door area. Look at your car from a distance from the side....open the doors...and you'll see what I mean. Not as bad as a 914, which looks like a pair of boxes connected by floor sheet metal when viewed this way. My point? the same amount of steel and weight...applied in some fashion along the length ( not width) of the car...especially in the door opening area..may have served you better. BTW... I saw earlier threads on such mods you were proposing, so what happened? Probably interefered with "streetability" too much, I would imagine.

---Wil Ferch
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Old 10-30-2003, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Wil Ferch
I saw earlier threads on such mods you were proposing, so what happened? Probably interefered with "streetability" too much, I would imagine.
Yes, I have to decide how much streetability I'm willing to sacrifice. I'm also mulling the idea of getting a cheep 3-series BMW or a GTi to use as a daily driver, and then I could go hog wild on the 911.

I have a friend who's a CE that builds his own offroad race cars. When we both get some time free, we're going to sit down and evaluate my chassis and how I can strengthen it without adding too much material. Oh, and he has a hydraulic tubing bender that he wants to 'store' in my new shop to clear some space in his garage
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Old 10-30-2003, 08:20 AM
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Thom:
An "X" brace in the door....but asymmetrical...may work.
More like a "U" on top of another, but upside down "U". Leaves a wide space for legs to swing over. Not as efficient as a pure "X", but triangulating the front and rear edges of the door-openings will do a *lot*.

---Wil
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Last edited by Wil Ferch; 10-30-2003 at 11:08 AM..
Old 10-30-2003, 09:19 AM
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To Stiffen it up you need to weld in a sister inner rocker. This the piece the factory installs on all cabs and targas.

# 911.501.962.46 and 911.501.961.46
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Old 10-30-2003, 11:28 AM
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Time for a coupe.
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Old 10-30-2003, 11:51 AM
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time for a full cage...and a carbon fiber roof

Jim
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Old 10-30-2003, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by addictionMS
time for a full cage...and a carbon fiber roof

Jim
Where do you get one of those? Someone asked me about that a while back, and I was unable to find a source.
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Old 10-30-2003, 01:17 PM
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I think The Racers Group has them,

I assume you are refering to the roof?

Jim
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Old 10-30-2003, 01:26 PM
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I think Thom's end goal is this:



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Old 10-30-2003, 01:29 PM
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I want to see the rest of that car. I dig vintage cars!

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Old 10-30-2003, 01:35 PM
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