regular Joe to replace shocks

[cantdrv55]

Any regular Joe/weekend mechanic out there replace the shocks on their 911? Wayne's book gives the job a two wrench rating for talent required. I've done some of the one wrench jobs in the book and have even tuned her up. The valve job is rated the same as shock replacement but I'm not sure I'm gonna tackle that. If you've replaced your shocks, please let me know the pitfalls that may not be covered in the projects book. Thanks.

Chris

[diy83sc]

Hi Chris,

I'm a regular Joe/weeknight mechanic and have done it twice already. Once on the 83 and once on the 80, both with Bilstein's.

If you have Bilsteins (Green strut) here's the deal.

With car on ground, remove the blower fan and the piping in front of it. Get yourself a universal shock tool that you throw a ratcheting 13mm over while you hold the shock nut with a 17mm. I found it easier to turn the shock stem instead of the other way around. You definitely have to do it that way on the passenger side rear.

Lift the car until the top portion of the shock drops. Remove the bottom bolt. On the new shock, slip a piece of rubber tubbing (some call it gas line) over the stem. I used about 5 inches or so. This will let you guide the shock through the top hole and mount the bottom bolt. SLOWLY lower the car until the stem passes the top mounting hole. Then tighten the bottom bolt.

Repeat for the right side. Here is where the tool will come in handly. I taped my rathecting box wrench to the tool so that if it slipped on the stem, I wouldn't have to come up with a few new words while trying to relocate the tool. Again, you will find that turning the stem works better. I used the passenger side engine area to work the stem while holding the 17mm wrench from the back side of the engine. Yeah, hugging the engine.

The front struts come out even easier. Loosen the top bolt with the car on the ground. You may need a small impact or a quick twist to turn the nut without turning the stem. Raise the car and slowly pull the strut cover downward to get the stem out of the mounting point. You'll then need to thnk about which direction to turn the wheel as to not place tension on your brake line. The rest id about compressing the shock to get the strut to the outside of the fender. Then get a 1/4 punch to knock out the retaining pin on the bottom. I had to use some wd-40 on the 80 too even see where it was. Install in reverse order, including adding some rubber safe grease to the inside of the strut.

All of this assumes you know how to safely jack and support your car. *USE YOU JACK STANDS* and tire blocks.

First time: 5 hours, Second time: 4

Good luck!

[Sonic dB]

Chris, I just replaced the fronts with Bilstein inserts on my 86 this morning...and am about to go out and do the rears this evening.

The fronts took about an hour or so and was incredibly easy job. Car feels much tighter up there now...cant wait to do the rears.

Tips: Get yourself a big 20" breaker bar, 22mm deep impact socket and a big round curved jaw vice grips (locking pliers). The vice grips will hold the big round washer while you break the nut apart with the breaker bar and socket on top of the strut mounts. The vice grips also come in handy when removing the strut cover nut.

For original Boge struts, when doing the front inserts, just jack up the car, remove the wheel...take off the nut on the top strut mount located in the trunk...collapse the strut down and fold it down outside and under the fender... remove the strut dust cover and undo the strut nut... take out the old insert, stuff a rag in the strut to remove old grease....put new Bilstein in... screw in the strut nut... collapse Bilstein down and fold back under fender and up into the strut mount hole. Put tire back on, lower car and tighten down strut nut with big washer in place.

Repeat on other side. Be careful not to damage the brake lines....just unclamp them to give you enough slack to bend strut outside of fender.

The rears are simpler, just unbolt and bolt in place.

Do a search here at the forum on "bilstein inserts" and you will get all of the information that you need.

[dickster]

chris,

i've done both. i would rate the valve job more difficult - to get right.

the rear shocks are very easy, and the fronts just a bit more involved.