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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 159
Yeah, don't disconnect the caliper from the hardline. Leave it connected and alternate clamping one piston then the other on the caliper while pressing the pedal in between changing the clamp from side to side worked great on my frozen piston.

Just like it's detailed here:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_caliper_rebuild/911_caliper_rebuild.htm

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'70 911T Signal Orange
Old 11-06-2003, 07:42 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #21 (permalink)
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Palo Alto, CA
Posts: 159
I used a bike pump and cut the valve off an old inner tube. Leave just enough rubber to seal around the caliper inlet.

Took about 30 psi to get my pistons moving. Use a C clamp to hold the other piston. 30psi x 2.5 in is 75 lbs force so don't use your fingers.

PP sells caliper grease which will make this rebuilt last a while.
Old 11-06-2003, 08:26 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #22 (permalink)
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Denver
Posts: 1,242
What about replacing the roter? I've never replaced the roter, repacked the seals, etc. That's where I'm interested in learning how to do. The pelican articles are great for the caliper rebuild. Should I clean the bearings and reback? If so, what do you clean them with? Anything I should be cautious about before I begin.
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1999 996 C4 Cabriolet
1997 BMW M3 (Hail)
1985 928 S (Sold)
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Old 11-07-2003, 05:00 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #23 (permalink)
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: St. Pete, FL
Posts: 15,062
Garage
Get new bearings - they are cheap. You have to replace the races (the part that the bearings ride on) they come with the berings and are matched. Heat up the old hubs on the BBQ grill and pound out with a flat punch or a bearing remover (I think KTL knows of a specific bearing remover for $30 bucks at Pep boys that will work so you don't have to beat the races out!) Wish I would have know about that before hand.

Freeze the races, heat the hub back up and drop the races in the hub. Then repack. I was a little intimidated by that too but it was actually pretty easy. Just be careful with the hubs as they are aluminium and will get beat up pretty easy.
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Current Whip: - 2003 996 Twin Turbo - 39K miles - Lapis Blue/Grey
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Old 11-07-2003, 05:54 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #24 (permalink)
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: IL
Posts: 1,638
tt_targa... i think i'll go that route first... thanks for the suggestion.

mtelliott - replacing the rotors is simply a matter of getting the caliper clear and unbolting the rotors. The bearings are a little tougher and the hot/cool method helps(There was something a little satisfying about getting the webber grill up to 600 degrees), but i'm gonna get a cheap bearing remover (per KTL) the next time i do it.

Old 11-07-2003, 06:40 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #25 (permalink)
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