Would you pay $7500 for a 75 911S

yelcab1 · 11-04-2003, 09:28 AM

Would you?

Dealer
80K miles
clean exterior
clean interior
dirty engine
No records
probably no engine updates
And no PPI (dealer won't let it out of his place)

Turn and run?

Todd Simpson · 11-04-2003, 09:31 AM

Quote:

And no PPI (dealer won't let it out of his place)

On principle alone I would walk away.

dotorg · 11-04-2003, 09:31 AM

I wouldn't buy a car the dealer refuses a PPI on for any amount of money.

Well, maybe $100

nestorjw · nestorjw's Garage

No PPI, run like hell

Mukilteo911 · 11-04-2003, 09:33 AM

not without ppi, with ppi and OK, yes.
I got mine for 6250 because the engine was pulling studs. Engine lasted a year before studs got loose enough for me to take it out. Replaced it with a used 2.4 for 1800. Drive it everyday and love it.

TerryBPP · 11-04-2003, 09:36 AM

I bought my freshly rebuilt 76 for $7500. Of course I got a PPI. No PPI no BUY. Say it over and over.

rickeolis · 11-04-2003, 09:37 AM

If he won't let you get a PPI done on it, there must be a reason why.

I would steer clear-

nostatic · nostatic's Garage

with no records and no PPI, you have no way of verifying the mileage, and no way of knowing what (if anything) has been done to the car. Worst case scenario, it could have a bent frame, pulling head studs, toasted syncros, warped rotors, etc. After spending $7500 for the car and another $15K in repairs later you'd have a very nice car worth about $10K.

k9handler · 11-04-2003, 09:42 AM

mine was $8k, with engine rebuild, updates, fresh 915 and ok condition...but then again I have done quite a bit since and have spent more in mods then I did for the car.

cassisrot · 11-04-2003, 09:43 AM

7 ditto's and a question. Why are you even asking? You know nobody on this board well tell you to go ahead and buy what amounts to a pig in a poke.

dd74 · 11-04-2003, 09:55 AM

Go ahead. Buy it!

But test drive it first. Drive it vigorously for about twenty minutes. Make certain it winds up to the redline w/o hiccups or strange engine noises.

Look at the guages; make sure you have adequate oil pressure and that the engine doesn't run too hot - that year's model has thermal reactors in the exhaust system - so "warm" won't be too unusual.

Hammer the brakes; make sure they work adequately, and be certain the transmission is in working order.

Check for rust spots as well. Is this Cali car? If so, North or South (South being better - drier air).

Ask him to clean up the engine, and with that, check for oil leaks.

See that all electrical is working as well.

Check the wheel wells and frame for overspray: this might be an indication of the car having been in an accident, and repaired cheaply.

Lastly, as a comparison, drive other 911s in its model-year range, or even a newer SC.

I'm suggesting this in lieu of not being allowed to get a PPI. This is my advice if you're in love with the car. Otherwise, I concur with the others that it probably isn't the best investment of your money.

nostatic · nostatic's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by yelcab1
Would you?

Dealer

Which dealer?

RickM · RickM's Garage

Ask the dealer to do a PPI and back their findings in writing or watch them perform it.

dad911 · 11-04-2003, 10:55 AM

If it's a car I really wanted, I would ask the dealer to do a compression & leakdown test.

TerryBPP · 11-04-2003, 10:57 AM

Show up with $6500 cash and then if he still doesn't let you PPI it then there is something wrong.

yelcab1 · 11-04-2003, 11:12 AM

OK, Run it is.

http://adcache.collectorcartraderonline.com/10/9/8/45804898.htm

is the car.

gregk1 · 11-04-2003, 11:22 AM

I paid $3500 for my 76S no PPI, runs great but some puled studs waiting for it to POP but not so far. I also paid $6000 for a nice 74 No PPI but paper work for a complete rebuild

JTO · 11-04-2003, 11:24 AM

yelcab1
Since it may be a WA car, it will not have thermal reactors in '75. Only CA cars had thermal reactors in '75.

It may be a great car but probably at that mileage, you will most likely have pulling head studs and bad valve guides.

Since I have been through this and ended up with a great car after lots of money and time and hassle, I'd keep looking if I were you.

Troy

dd74 · 11-04-2003, 11:35 AM

The pics. show it cleans up nicely. My biggest concern would be the engine. I thought reactors were on all 2.7s from '75 to '77 just before the 3.0 engine came out, though I can't say for sure with non-California cars. Certainly check into this. It might be the determining factor between pulled studs and a reasonably healthy engine.

JTO · 11-04-2003, 11:39 AM

Hi dd74,

I have a 75 S that was original when I bought it. It had no thermal reactors on it. I had pulled head studs at 97,500 miles when the reabuild occured. My valve guides were gone too. The car was in a relatively hot area (Medford, OR) all of its life which was good and bad; very dry and hot so the car has no rust, but the heat killed the engine. A 75 911 from WA may be better off due to the much cooler climate. Rust is a concern there though. It might be a good car.

Troy