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removing anodisation from fuchs

I just bought my first 911 (for anyone that's interested it's a 1968 2.0l in primrose yellow). The Fuchs are looking a bit tired so I've decided to set myself a nice little xmas project of stripping, polishing, and repainting them. I've done some research on the internet, looked at all the articles on Pelicans technical forum, checked the section in 101 projects for your Porsche, but there's still a couple of things I need help with. Can anyone tell me how can I find out if my alloys are anodised? Then, if they are, what's the quickest/easiest way to remove the anodisation? I've read about using lye, and other sodium hydroxide based products, and one article even mentioned using oven cleaner.

Then, what's the best thing to do once I'm finished to make sure they're protected. I figure they're anodised for a reason, so if I'm removing it do I need to do something to re-protect them?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Old 12-12-2003, 04:00 AM
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This is a subject that is best addressed by checking the "search" function and using keywords "fuchs, polished, anodized, etc". Not that we don't like to give answers to questions. It's just that this topic has to be the most often repeated question and covered so many times, it's hard to really add anything to whats been already posted. Good luck.
Old 12-12-2003, 04:09 AM
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I'd approach this by asking yourself if you are OK with a wax job protecting your polish/paint or if you want true anodizing.

If you want anodizing, have it done professionally (obviously) but have them do the entire process from strip to polish to anodizing.

If you are OK with wax, the quickest way to remove anodizing is to take the wheels to a chroming shop and have them dip them in a strip tank. There is debate if this does anything past simply pulling the anodizing (weaken metal structure, etc.). Certainly you want to be RIGHT THERE LOOKING IN at the tank and pulling the wheel. Three to five minutes does it if memory serves.

Once stripped this way, you have avoided using the 120 grit, etc. and thus can move directly to the 1200 or so and the rouges you will need to get the right finish.

It's a bear on the fingers and hands. I have done it by hand (6/7) and had Al Reed do the other set (7/9). I'll have a pro. do this from now on - life is too short!

John
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Old 12-12-2003, 05:14 AM
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After watching my friend polish his fuchs, I decided to also out source mine. I have fully polished wheels by professional polishers and the maintenance is fairly easy to keep up. Cleanthe wheels by washing them before the rest of the car and treating them like a painted surface. Use Mother's Mag and Aluminum polish to take out minor scratches and to bring back any lost lustre. Waxing helps but not really necessary.
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Old 12-12-2003, 06:51 AM
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I took mine to a polishing shop. All 4 cost about $125 about 10 years ago. I use Mothers Polish and they look great.
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Old 12-12-2003, 08:49 AM
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Xmas project finished, and I've still got the blisters to prove it.

The English weather has already tried to have it's wicked way with them. Anyone got any ideas how I can protect the bare aluminium? When people talk about waxing them is it just with car wax, or something more specialised?

Thanks.
Old 01-14-2004, 10:58 PM
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I was told by the Meguiar's rep that their metal polish has an ingredient that will help protect the surface from oxidization.
Old 01-15-2004, 01:45 AM
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Rob,
Pretty little SWB you have there and the wheels look nice w/out the black paint highlights. The 2.0L Normal engines with 130 bhp are fun drivers, especially thru the roving English countryside. What are you doing to protect the underside from rust?

P.S. - Isn't "primrose" the Jaguar name for your color? I believe your car is refered to is champagne yellow (6822) by Porsche...
Old 01-15-2004, 04:47 AM
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Rob,
Fellow Pelicanite Nick Moss can get them re-anodised for you if you wanted.
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Old 01-15-2004, 05:49 AM
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I've got the underside waxoyled to protect against rust. Structurally it's pretty sound, I'm more about the bodywork. It's in good condition at the moment, just got to keep my eye on it. I try not to take it out when the weathers bad, but as that's 90% of the time I don't always stick to that.

Thanks for the Porsche colour reference, I'll check it out. There's no plate on the door pillar so I'm not sure what the original colour was.
Old 01-15-2004, 06:46 AM
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What Did You Use?

So what did you end up using to strip them (they look great). Did you remove the tires prior to stripping?

Thanks, Gordo
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Old 01-15-2004, 07:02 PM
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Rob, that primrose short wheel base is sweet! You should be proud of yourself.
Now get some black around those fuch petals and dress her properly!!!

Wurth satin black is the latest thing I recall (as of 1968 onwards!)
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Old 01-15-2004, 08:45 PM
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Have your tried to touch them up with vaseline oil (clear petroleum grease)? Just rub it on/in on cleaned surfaced. Can make a big difference if the anodize coating is just a bit faded. Also helps protect the finish, though the anodize does a good job on its own. Note: I prefer the anodized look vs. shiny chrome look-alike.
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Old 01-16-2004, 11:55 AM
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All Fuchs came from the factory anodized not painted as I understand it. Anodizing just adds a thin layer of oxidation to the top of the metal which can then be dyed.

I would think the best way would be to sand it out, probably the most time consuming, but also the best. My understanding is that the oxidation layer is actually harder than the metal underneath which is one of the reasons that it's done.
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Old 01-16-2004, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by masraum
I would think the best way would be to sand it out, probably the most time consuming, but also the best. [/B]
Anyone that has tried to sand off the anodizing knows this is the worst way to do it. It would take days to remove all traces by sanding, whereas oven cleaner can do it in minutes with no elbow grease.
Old 01-16-2004, 12:19 PM
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I tried the oven cleaner with kind of crummy results. It seemed to soften the anodizing, but it didn't remove it. Not sure why (brand, temp, humidity), but I ended up using a sanding disk on a drill. I first used 80 grit to remove the anodizing, then I hand sanded, 100, 140, 200, 260, 300, 400, 600, 800, 1000. Then I buffed. They came out nice, but you will spend at leat 30-40 hours to do them this way. I kind of enjoyed it (call me sick). However, some people just don't have either the time or patience to do this.

Have fun.
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Old 01-16-2004, 12:27 PM
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(I'm a 912 owner, but this OP was on Fuchs and anodizing)

It's interesting to note that no one answered this post, at least with a technical response.

You can check if Fuchs are anodized by setting an electrometer (which detects volts DC, volts AC, current in units of amps, and resistance in units of ohms, etc) on the most sensitive resistance (ohms) setting.

Then simply touch the surface of any "petal" or "mag" on the surface with the red and black electrodes placed more than an inch (2.54 cm) away from each other. If the reading changes as soon as you touch the surface, that specific wheel IS NOT ANODIZED, since aluminum conducts.

However, if nothing happens, then that specific wheel IS ANODIZED. Aluminum oxide, or the anodizing used on Fuchs, does not conduct, so its resistance in units of ohms is zero.

We did this at a plating shop yesterday on my Fuchs, and I just confirmed in my garage. As soon as the plating shop technician grabbed an electrometer, I said: "Oh, you're going to measure resistance since anodizing must not conduct?" He said, yes.

Two of my wheels (left side) are anodized, and the two on the right are not, and can be shined up very nicely with mothers. However, he's going to strip out all the paint in the deep pockets, strip the anodizing off the anodized wheels, and then polish the entire wheel on all four.

Personally, I don't like the black paint on Fuchs, since it degrades and fades over time and eventually looks faded out. I could have the black powder coated, but then again, I like the full polished look. (remember Cragar mags?)

As far as DIY and all the hand sanding that people go through to get around anodizing, the plating shop technician said we remove anodizing from wheels all the time, and as far as polishing goes, we have some very powerful industrial buffers for wheels (like a lathe) that you can't even come close to using power tools at home - so don't waste your time.

Last edited by wkrtsm; 02-22-2020 at 11:54 AM..
Old 02-22-2020, 10:11 AM
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Because every 911 owner wants polished Craggars ;-)
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Old 02-22-2020, 01:46 PM
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I’ll stick with the polished surface. Anodizing is just too prone to staining if anything harsh gets on it. Alls it takes is a dog lifting their leg on a wheel. My Fuchs are polished petals with painted black back grounds. It is less maintenance and worry than trying to properly protect anodized wheels.
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Old 02-24-2020, 07:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgofast View Post
I’ll stick with the polished surface. Anodizing is just too prone to staining if anything harsh gets on it. Alls it takes is a dog lifting their leg on a wheel. My Fuchs are polished petals with painted black back grounds. It is less maintenance and worry than trying to properly protect anodized wheels.
Uh, have you performed the lift leg, pee test on your polished Fuchs? Not you; a dog.

Might have similar results.

Sherwood

Old 02-25-2020, 09:19 AM
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