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Team California
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valve adjustment question:
I have always checked and adjusted my valves one cylinder at a time, ie. intake/exhaust on cylinder 1, cylinder 2, etc....
What I was wondering is this: is there any harm or disadvantage to doing all of the intakes first, then all of the bottom (exhaust) valves? How about all of the left side cylinders, then all of the right? I realize that someone might be wondering, "what is the point?" The reason is because my back is so bad that I can barely work on a car anymore, and the getting in and out from under the car is the worst. With an ltd. slip and an (attractive) assistant to tell me when the marks line up on the pully I could do all of the bottom ones in one operation on my back. Thanks in advance for your input. ![]()
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Denis In other news, a felon from Queens pardoned another felon from Queens this week. ![]() |
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10-4 on the short skirt!
The only disadvantage I can see, is having to turn the engine over more revolutions w/o oil pressure to achieve TDC on each cylinder more than once. I'm paranoid about dry rings and cylinders!
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Mike B. '72 911E Coupe Early "S" #1065 |
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Certified Pre-Owned
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Nanny State
Posts: 3,132
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BTDT, as long as you know where you are, it doesn't matter.
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Also, beg borrow buy whatever a little air ratchet and compressor if you can. You'll zip the exhaust valve cover nuts off in like 1 minute, and almost all the ones on the intake except where the AC hoses get in the way. I bought mine on eBay, its the Husky wratchet that Home Depot sells for like $60. Anything you can do to save from the twisting on the back gets my vote...
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'84 Carrera Coupe |
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Team California
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Thanks, guys!
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Denis In other news, a felon from Queens pardoned another felon from Queens this week. ![]() |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Langley,B.C.
Posts: 12,022
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I usually do my intakes and exhauasts on two different days just because I do not always have enough time to do it all at once!
Jeff
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Turn3 Autosport- Full Service and Race Prep www.turn3autosport.com 997 S 4.0, Cayman S 3.8, Cayenne Turbo, Macan Turbo, 69 911, Mini R53 JCW , RADICAL SR3 |
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Now in 993 land ...
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There is no problem in changing the order in which you do this. My vote goes to outsourcing this job if it gives you that much pain. If you have some room, spring in for a lift. A great 6k pound lift can be had for around 2k. Do a search on Autopro6000. Unfortunately I don't have space for one. As soon as I get a bigger house I won't wait a day. Getting one in the bay area, probably not going to happen any time soon.
![]() Cheers, George |
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Peoples Republic of Long Beach, NY
Posts: 21,140
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Quote:
It's like a prescription card cost. 911 = medicine ..... Ron
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Ronin LB '77 911s 2.7 PMO E 8.5 SSI Monty MSD JPI w x6 |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Linn County, Oregon
Posts: 48,569
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Yeah...my dream, a lift & a heated garage. Key-rap...I just turned 60. Getting soaked while scrubbing the bottom of a 911 on jackstands in 45 degree weather just ain't the fun it was 30 years ago...
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 4,403
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You nailed that Ron.
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Now in 993 land ...
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I have a double car garage in a moderate climate. A small space heater makes it real comfy and there is plenty of space in my little paradise. I am not going to complain too much. But the next house I get will have at least 3 stalls and a lift. Otherwise I wont' move. My wife knows I am serious too.
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 4,403
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IMHO pits are the pits. George, just sell that place in the Bay Area and move on up North by me. You could probably buy a mansion up here, with all the garage space you need.
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Registered
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Peoples Republic of Long Beach, NY
Posts: 21,140
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Quote:
Me to
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Ronin LB '77 911s 2.7 PMO E 8.5 SSI Monty MSD JPI w x6 |
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Detached Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: southern California
Posts: 26,964
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One of the guys I talked to on the Mulholland Run last week (Tyson?) says he uses a remote starter switch on the starter and sets all the exhausts by watching the lobes of the cam. That way he doesn't have to keep getting up and down.
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Hugh |
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Now in 993 land ...
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Thunder Hill may be in decent distance from Red Bluff, but Laguna Seca and Sears Point will be too far! Any decent AX events there? I think north norcal is the place to be for the retirement years when you can buy one of those RVs that holds 2 racecars and travel to the track of your choice. ![]() George |
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Irrationally exuberant
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Here's something I saved from Rennlist a couple of years ago:
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 23:22:22 -0700 Author: "John Larson" Subject: [classic] Re: valve adjustment correct? Body: Hi. Let's talk about valve adjustment for the benefit of the list. As a Porsche tech of close to 30 years, I've done a bunch. First, there are 2 basic ways of doing this, the way in the book, and the easy (and VERY accurate) way. The official way is complicated and time consuming, requiring you to be up and down several times, and looking for marks that may not always be easily seen. In your case, the marks were even a bit confusing. We'll start there. Z1 is the mark between the letter "Z" and the number "1". The other mark is of no consequence here. The next TDC mark is 120 degrees along the circle, and the last mark is another 120 degrees after that. Other marks may include the 3 timing marks and the "FE" mark, used to set the MFI pump timing. You not only have to set the engine to each of these TDC marks in turn, you have to do it TWICE, and you have to find which of two possible cylinders you're on. Wiggle the valves, look at the rotor, whatever. While you don't have to be EXACTLY on the mark, the closer you are the better. On to the easy way, one regularly used on British and Japanese cars, and Volvos as well. Works on EVERYTHING. You jack the car up, just like the factory method. For our use, we're going to hook up a starter button, or a wire with a switch in it, between the battery post on the starter and terminal 51, the activator terminal. Hit the button a couple of times to assure it works. You've drained the oil and removed the lower valve covers. We'll worry about the upper ones later. Watching the #6 exhaust rocker (hey, you've gotta start somewhere, and it's right there next to the starter), hit the starter button repeatedly in short bursts until that rocker pad is on the highest point of the cam lobe. It's easy to see, but you might want to go around twice the first time to help you see how it looks. Move over to the other side, check and adjust the #3 exhaust valve, the one straight across. Once you've done that, rock another valve open. Might as well rock the #5 exhaust valve, it's the next in line and being organized has its advantages here. Move across and check/set the #2 exhaust valve. Do the other 4. Might want to go around twice, it's easy and it helps you learn the feel and the procedure. Wipe down and clean the cam tower surface, clean the covers, and install the cam covers over those nice new gaskets. I like the gray ones. Use the new nuts and washers that come in the kit. Keep the car at a nice working height. Remove the top covers, leaving the spark plugs in, and adjust the intake valves just like you did the exhaust valves. Before you reinstall the covers and the nice new gaskets, pull the plugs if you're going to replace them or do a compression test. Why did we wait to do the plugs? For two reasons. First, with the plugs out the engine turns over too fast to make it easy to stop it on the tip of the lobe. Second, the plugs often shed carbon particles when they're removed and those little bits fall into the gap of the open valve, causing a false reading with the feeler gauge and making it difficult to get an accurate adjustment. With the plugs out, there's no compression to blow those little suckers out either. You get it back together, fire it up, and you may have one (or more) horrendously loose valve(s), meaning you have to remove that (or those) lower cover(s) and do it all over again. I'm not making this up, BTW, we discussed it in P-car school, those 29 long years ago. Same thing happens with the official technique as well. This technique works with every cam grind, every engine. I use it on Rabbits, 356s, 914s, 911s, everything. It's fast, really accurate, and easy on the old back. After 30 years, the climbing up and down gets really old, trust me. The clearance is ALWAYS exactly measured from the center of the lowest point of the cam lobe, the base circle. You don't have to look at those hard-to-see little lines (a definite plus on a 914/6!), you don't have to look at the rotor, and you don't have to get up and down a thousand times. Congratulations, BTW, Jim, on doing your first valve adjustment. It's the first and most important step in tuning (and even diagnosing) a 911 engine. From there, everything else is a breeze. I hope this little note will make your next one even easier and more accurate. I also hope it helps the rest of the list as much as it has me.
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'80 911 Nogaro blue Phoenix! '07 BMW 328i 245K miles! http://members.rennlist.org/messinwith911s/ |
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Nor-Cal
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Team California
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Thank you for the responses! I am printing out the
All advice will be taken to heart, particularly Noah's! ![]()
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Denis In other news, a felon from Queens pardoned another felon from Queens this week. ![]() |
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