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break in oil?

Just thought of this one. If we get so far as to start the 3.0 on sunday, what oil should I use for the break in? Is the usual 20-50 too heavy?

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Old 01-16-2004, 03:39 PM
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Nope, use normal 20W50

Run it for the first 1000 miles, then change the oil.

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Old 01-16-2004, 04:47 PM
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Use 30 wt Non Detergent oil for the first 1000 miles. Then 20-50. Otto
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Old 01-16-2004, 05:41 PM
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What about the first 20 minute run in?
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Old 01-16-2004, 07:09 PM
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Cool

Quote:
Originally posted by Otto
Use 30 wt Non Detergent oil for the first 1000 miles. Then 20-50. Otto
ditto

it's what I did.
it's became tighter than a crabs ass.. and that's water tight.
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Old 01-16-2004, 07:20 PM
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I agre with Otto. Thinner is better at first.
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Old 01-17-2004, 03:57 AM
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Ron, You know crabs don't have asses...
Old 01-17-2004, 11:49 AM
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Should you also avoid exceeding a certain RPM? New cars typically "limit" RPM to less than 4000 for the first 1000-1500 miles for break-in.
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Old 01-17-2004, 11:51 AM
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you should reag this opinion on break in tecnique. He makes some good points:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
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Old 01-17-2004, 12:17 PM
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change the oil a couple of times in short succession when it's a full rebuild according to Waynes rebuilding book
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Old 01-17-2004, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by rw7810
you should reag this opinion on break in tecnique. He makes some good points:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
that link , doesn't make sense to me, it says just run the engine hard first thing after a rebuild... his opinions are based on getting the most HP from your engine, and although his method might work to get performance , i very much doubt that it will prolong longetivity...
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Old 01-17-2004, 01:01 PM
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Keep the rpm under 3500 for the first 500 miles or so. Try and flucuate the rpm between 2500 and 4500 for the next 1000 miles. Avoid city driving as much as possible during the initial break-in. Change the oil after 250 miles and again at 1500 miles.
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Old 01-17-2004, 02:46 PM
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It would be interesting to compare that guy's advice with what race engine builders do to break in an engine on a dyno.
Old 01-17-2004, 03:23 PM
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The engine should be run hard to seat the rings immediately. That helps build horsepower, street or track.
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Old 01-19-2004, 05:32 AM
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then how about the metal that comes of the not broken engine parts, which are settling in their enviroment? what's the effect of that?
i can imagine that it's no good to run it hard when the engine parts are still loosing metal and that metal is floating around in the oil

it seems to me that there's more to an engine than piston rings?
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Old 01-19-2004, 05:57 AM
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This can also depend on the rings.

Mahle rings are known to be harder to seat. I tried teh MotoTune method and it was "not hard enough" and my rings didn't seat even after 1000 miles.

Tore it down, re-ringed again, then beat the piss outta my 3.0L and THEN they seated in 30 minutes.
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Old 01-19-2004, 06:46 AM
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So how do you know when your rings have "seated" ??
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Old 01-19-2004, 07:06 AM
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compression test
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Old 01-19-2004, 07:12 AM
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Run it HARD. In fact, have the timing light and stuff hooked up at startup time, set ignition timing and mixture quickly, then roar up and down the street making as much pressure against the rings as possible without going over about 4000 rpm.

Non-detergent 30w oil, at first. You can get it at the airport. Aircraft mechanics use it for beak-in.
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Old 01-19-2004, 07:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by svandamme
then how about the metal that comes of the not broken engine parts, which are settling in their enviroment? what's the effect of that?
i can imagine that it's no good to run it hard when the engine parts are still loosing metal and that metal is floating around in the oil

it seems to me that there's more to an engine than piston rings?
a) Thats why you change the oil often.

b) Yes there's more to it than rings seating, but unseated rings on glazed bores can not be fixed without a tear-down. Run it hard from the start.

Old 01-19-2004, 07:36 AM
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