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-   -   first time engine drop, advice? (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/147021-first-time-engine-drop-advice.html)

rhk109 02-03-2004 04:50 PM

first time engine drop, advice?
 
Hey everyone,

I am about to begin my first engine drop to replace to fix an oil leak coming from the gap between the engine and tranny. I believe it is the flywheel seal. I am also planning on replacing the oil pressure switch and thermostat seals while I have the engine out. Are there any other items that should be replaced while I have the engine out. Any special tools that are a must have for this job? Any advice appreciated.

rhk109
76 911 3.0

ChrisBennet 02-03-2004 05:13 PM

It's an excellent time to adjust the valves. You can actually see what you're doing instead of doing it by feel.
-Chris

azasadny 02-03-2004 05:32 PM

rhk109,
Do a search on theis BBS for "engine drop" and you'll get alot of info. It seems like like the NoVA (Northern Virginia) guys do an engine drop every week! Plenty of good advice from people who have done engine drops and have documented them and you'll have all of the info you need. Good luck!

Rot 911 02-03-2004 05:34 PM

What makes you so sure it is your flywheel seal? Most times leaks around or beneath the transmission can be traced to your breather cover gasket or oil thermostat o ring.

rhk109 02-03-2004 06:29 PM

The top of the engine is pretty clean. I have Webers so the top of the engine is easy to access with the engine in the car. Can oil escape into the bell housing from the breather or thermostat without evidence on top of the engine?
__________________
rhk109
'76 911 3.0L

onewhippedpuppy 02-03-2004 06:45 PM

My breather gasket was leaking, and the top of the engine was a mess. Look over everything really well, I just finished my first drop a few days ago, I did the valves (order the special tool and LOTS of extra blades), breather gasket, fuel filter, temp sensor, improved throttle link, oil t-stat o-ring, new carb to intake and intake to head gaskets, turbo lover valve covers and silicone gaskets, new plugs, and cleaned the hell out of everything. I'd highly recomend the engine/ transmission jack adaptor http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/ptoo/POR_PTOO_miscel_pg1.htm , I very slowly brought mine down balanced on a pallet, I won't do that again:rolleyes: . You'll find stuff when you get in there, at least I sure did. Have fun with it though, I was worried at first, but in the end it was really easy. All I have for tools was an average floor jack, 4 jack stands, some short 4x4s to block up the jack stands to get the car high enough, a small bottle jack that helped to balance the tranny, and a adequate assortment of metric sockets and wrenches, as well as the normal adjustable wrenches, vise grips, channel locks, etc. Make sure you get the valve adjustment tool, lots of spare blades, and if you're looking for an excuse to buy some cool new tools, those combination wrenches that ratchet on one end are awesome, tell the SO you need these specific ones.;) Good luck, and have fun with it.

UTKarmann_Ghia 02-03-2004 07:04 PM

Yes, adjust the valves! It will never be easier than it is when the engine is out. Breather gasket is a must to replace also. You can check Wayne's 101 projects and it has a chapter on oil leaks. It's a good read.

vol96 02-03-2004 08:19 PM

On the tranny side:
See if there is any leakage from the input shaft seal. I think on some 915's the seal can be replaced from the outside.
Good time to check/replace your throw out bearing also.

Check hard to reach accel linkage bushings....dont know if there are any on Webers.

Jim Richards 02-04-2004 03:16 AM

Wayne's 101 Projects for your 911 book and check out marcesq's web page regarding the drop he did a while back on his 77 911S:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/MotorCity/marcesq1/TheBegining.html

ubiquity0 02-04-2004 07:00 AM

Just stay away from the cinder blocks :eek:
:)

Jim Richards 02-04-2004 08:26 AM

Use your own judgement about cinder blocks. If you use them the wrong way they can break. If you use them the right way, they can support the weight of a house. Common sense.

Danskman 02-04-2004 09:47 AM

rhk109...

What Matt said. I just dropped mine last Saturday, and I'm in the cleaning process right now. All I know, is that I'm trying to do freaking everything I can while the motor is out. I guess I'm lame, but with the engine in the car, just about everything other than the air filter is miserable to work on. So while it's out;
valve adjustment
tensioner upgrade
new oil pressure switch
bell crank bushings
oil breather gasket
oil cooler seals
most vacuum and breather hoses
fuel filter
cap & rotor
spark plugs
engine sound insulation
"S" hose
oil t-stat o-ring
front and rear engine compartment seals are fine, but if bad, now's the time to do it.
cv boots
engine and tranny mounts
injector o-rings
And then all the clutch related stuff - the reason for the drop in the first place.

I found that by removing the rear bumper (very easy - 4 bolts) I didn't have to get the car up so high, and the engine+tranny came out just fine resting on my floorjack. Have fun! I guess I'm weird, but I actually had fun pulling the motor, and was quite pleased with the process - no injuries, car didn't fall off the jack stands, didn't pin myself under the car, etc. I'm taking a lot of digital pics and hope to make a thread on it - something directed to the "mechanically challenged", like me.

By the way, I primarily used the Bentley manual, with 101 Projects to back it up.

Schrup 02-04-2004 10:01 AM

Mike, check the date stamped on the side of your CV joints. If they are the originals, I would replace them. They are only supposed to be good for 100k miles. If they're not bad, they will be soon, especially if your doing DEs & autox.

Crowbob 02-04-2004 11:37 AM

Get a home equity loan for Danskman's list o' parts.

Danskman 02-04-2004 12:11 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by JIMCRY
Get a home equity loan for Danskman's list o' parts.
LOL! Actually, other than the clutch kit and the tensioner upgrade, the parts aren't too bad. Mostly gaskets, seals, o-rings, rubber type stuff. The type of things that really don't stand up too well on 24 years of age. Clutch should be good for another 75,000~ miles, maybe more. Tensioner upgrade is preventative, and should last the life of the car.

rhk109 02-05-2004 05:03 AM

OK, is is easier/better to drop the just the engine or the engine/tranny combo? I've done a lot of searching and can't find a clear cut answer. It seems to be a personel preference.

__________________
rhk109
76 911 3.0

Crowbob 02-05-2004 05:11 AM

Both at the same time. 1) You might have a few pennies left over to do some more stuff like replacing the heater flappers, cluth cable, parking brakes, reline the trans. tunnel with sound proofing, (the starter, of course), new engine/tran mounts...all that stuff is way easier big time with no trans. in the way 2) Remating the trans to the engine can be difficult. 3) Wayne needs to pay for his Ferrari.

Jim Richards 02-05-2004 05:32 AM

I second the recommendation to do both at the same time. It's pretty easy that way.

Crowbob 02-05-2004 05:37 AM

Oh, forgot: replace the shifter bushings, pedal cluster bushings, cruise control cable, back-up light switch, speedo cable, shift rod bushing, ground strap(s)...

rhk109 02-05-2004 05:56 AM

Is there a good source for a step by step procedure to drop the engine/tranny combo? I have Waynes book "101 Projects", but I believe it covers dropping the engine only.

__________________
rhk109
76 911 3.0


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