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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Lancaster, PA
Posts: 262
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first time engine drop, advice?
Hey everyone,
I am about to begin my first engine drop to replace to fix an oil leak coming from the gap between the engine and tranny. I believe it is the flywheel seal. I am also planning on replacing the oil pressure switch and thermostat seals while I have the engine out. Are there any other items that should be replaced while I have the engine out. Any special tools that are a must have for this job? Any advice appreciated. rhk109 76 911 3.0 |
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Irrationally exuberant
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It's an excellent time to adjust the valves. You can actually see what you're doing instead of doing it by feel.
-Chris
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'80 911 Nogaro blue Phoenix! '07 BMW 328i 245K miles! http://members.rennlist.org/messinwith911s/ |
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19 years and 17k posts...
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rhk109,
Do a search on theis BBS for "engine drop" and you'll get alot of info. It seems like like the NoVA (Northern Virginia) guys do an engine drop every week! Plenty of good advice from people who have done engine drops and have documented them and you'll have all of the info you need. Good luck!
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Art Zasadny 1974 Porsche 911 Targa "Helga" (Sold, back home in Germany) Learning the bass guitar Driving Ford company cars now... www.ford.com |
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Friend of Warren
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 16,493
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What makes you so sure it is your flywheel seal? Most times leaks around or beneath the transmission can be traced to your breather cover gasket or oil thermostat o ring.
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Kurt V No more Porsches, but a revolving number of motorcycles. |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Lancaster, PA
Posts: 262
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The top of the engine is pretty clean. I have Webers so the top of the engine is easy to access with the engine in the car. Can oil escape into the bell housing from the breather or thermostat without evidence on top of the engine?
__________________ rhk109 '76 911 3.0L
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rhk109 '76 911 3.0 Webers |
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Did you get the memo?
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Wichita, KS
Posts: 32,470
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My breather gasket was leaking, and the top of the engine was a mess. Look over everything really well, I just finished my first drop a few days ago, I did the valves (order the special tool and LOTS of extra blades), breather gasket, fuel filter, temp sensor, improved throttle link, oil t-stat o-ring, new carb to intake and intake to head gaskets, turbo lover valve covers and silicone gaskets, new plugs, and cleaned the hell out of everything. I'd highly recomend the engine/ transmission jack adaptor http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/ptoo/POR_PTOO_miscel_pg1.htm , I very slowly brought mine down balanced on a pallet, I won't do that again
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‘07 Mazda RX8-8 Past: 911T, 911SC, Carrera, 951s, 955, 996s, 987s, 986s, 997s, BMW 5x, C36, C63, XJR, S8, Maserati Coupe, GT500, etc |
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Registered
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Yes, adjust the valves! It will never be easier than it is when the engine is out. Breather gasket is a must to replace also. You can check Wayne's 101 projects and it has a chapter on oil leaks. It's a good read.
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Matt '82 911SC Targa! |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 169
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On the tranny side:
See if there is any leakage from the input shaft seal. I think on some 915's the seal can be replaced from the outside. Good time to check/replace your throw out bearing also. Check hard to reach accel linkage bushings....dont know if there are any on Webers. |
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Bandwidth AbUser
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: SoCal
Posts: 29,522
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Wayne's 101 Projects for your 911 book and check out marcesq's web page regarding the drop he did a while back on his 77 911S:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/MotorCity/marcesq1/TheBegining.html
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Jim R. |
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,019
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Just stay away from the cinder blocks
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Bandwidth AbUser
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: SoCal
Posts: 29,522
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Use your own judgement about cinder blocks. If you use them the wrong way they can break. If you use them the right way, they can support the weight of a house. Common sense.
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Jim R. |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Cameron Park (NorCal)
Posts: 779
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rhk109...
What Matt said. I just dropped mine last Saturday, and I'm in the cleaning process right now. All I know, is that I'm trying to do freaking everything I can while the motor is out. I guess I'm lame, but with the engine in the car, just about everything other than the air filter is miserable to work on. So while it's out; valve adjustment tensioner upgrade new oil pressure switch bell crank bushings oil breather gasket oil cooler seals most vacuum and breather hoses fuel filter cap & rotor spark plugs engine sound insulation "S" hose oil t-stat o-ring front and rear engine compartment seals are fine, but if bad, now's the time to do it. cv boots engine and tranny mounts injector o-rings And then all the clutch related stuff - the reason for the drop in the first place. I found that by removing the rear bumper (very easy - 4 bolts) I didn't have to get the car up so high, and the engine+tranny came out just fine resting on my floorjack. Have fun! I guess I'm weird, but I actually had fun pulling the motor, and was quite pleased with the process - no injuries, car didn't fall off the jack stands, didn't pin myself under the car, etc. I'm taking a lot of digital pics and hope to make a thread on it - something directed to the "mechanically challenged", like me. By the way, I primarily used the Bentley manual, with 101 Projects to back it up.
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Mike '80 911SC Weissach Edition '87 325is '02 K1200RS |
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Binge User
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Mike, check the date stamped on the side of your CV joints. If they are the originals, I would replace them. They are only supposed to be good for 100k miles. If they're not bad, they will be soon, especially if your doing DEs & autox.
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Paul |
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Information Overloader
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: NW Lower Michigan
Posts: 29,389
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Get a home equity loan for Danskman's list o' parts.
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Cameron Park (NorCal)
Posts: 779
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Quote:
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Mike '80 911SC Weissach Edition '87 325is '02 K1200RS |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Lancaster, PA
Posts: 262
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OK, is is easier/better to drop the just the engine or the engine/tranny combo? I've done a lot of searching and can't find a clear cut answer. It seems to be a personel preference.
__________________ rhk109 76 911 3.0
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rhk109 '76 911 3.0 Webers |
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Information Overloader
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: NW Lower Michigan
Posts: 29,389
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Both at the same time. 1) You might have a few pennies left over to do some more stuff like replacing the heater flappers, cluth cable, parking brakes, reline the trans. tunnel with sound proofing, (the starter, of course), new engine/tran mounts...all that stuff is way easier big time with no trans. in the way 2) Remating the trans to the engine can be difficult. 3) Wayne needs to pay for his Ferrari.
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Bandwidth AbUser
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: SoCal
Posts: 29,522
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I second the recommendation to do both at the same time. It's pretty easy that way.
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Jim R. |
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Information Overloader
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: NW Lower Michigan
Posts: 29,389
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Oh, forgot: replace the shifter bushings, pedal cluster bushings, cruise control cable, back-up light switch, speedo cable, shift rod bushing, ground strap(s)...
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Lancaster, PA
Posts: 262
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Is there a good source for a step by step procedure to drop the engine/tranny combo? I have Waynes book "101 Projects", but I believe it covers dropping the engine only.
__________________ rhk109 76 911 3.0
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rhk109 '76 911 3.0 Webers |
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