Time for a new clutch, what else to do when i am in there?

[alf]

My clutch is on its last legs...was slipping a little at the track on first gear.

Any suggestions on which clutch to get, what to expect to pay for labor and parts and what else to do while i am in there?

My local tech quoted me $700 for parts and $500 for labor on the clutch. If i do a top end rebuild at the same time ($4000) he will not have to charge labor for the clutch job.

Car has 95k miles, not burning or leaking oil. Occasional blue puff of smoke on cold mornings.

thanks
alf

[jpachard]

If you are doing alot of track time might I suggest the Kennedy Engineering clutch package. It's 12lbs lighter than your stock pressure plate and bolts right up. The stock pressure plate weighs 25lbs...Yikes

Cheers, James

[don911]

Alf,
If you DIY, I have a ATV jack you can use. It makes removing the engine a piece of cake.
I have the Kennedy Engineering Pressure plate and a centerforce clutch. I suggest the KE pressure plate but use a OEM 930 clutch.
My clutch is really grabby and you get some chatter if you don't get some RPMs up. It will be great on the track but it's kind of pain daily.

[Rick Lee]

So why are you considering a top end, if it's not using oil?

You'll need to do the G50 fork update, get your flywheel checked/resurfaced/replaced, replace flywheel seal, update guide tube and o-ring, adjust valves, replace idiot light switch, oil breather cover gasket and internal t-stat o-ring. That's bare minimum and you can go wild from there.

[jpachard]

Kennedy Supplies there kits with the OEM 930 clutch or the centerforce. I have the 930 OEM one since as Don says the centerforce is a bit grabby on the street and a bit overkill unless you are putting out 300+ Hp.

[don911]

Richard, Guide tube o-ring? Does the G50 guide tube have an o-ring? There wasn't one on my existing guide tube and I didn't use one on the new guide tube. ?? I hope it's not a very important piece of the puzzle.

[alf]

Originally posted by Richard LeSchander
So why are you considering a top end, if it's not using oil?

Figure the top end is something that i will have to do eventually and if i could save $500 doing it now, might be worth it. Nah, better to put it off till it is necessary

So where do i get this Kennedy kit?

alf

[jpachard]

Alf, You can contact them directly at:

Kennedy Engineering

Or you can ask Wayne if they can get them. They sell either the Pressure plate seperately or you can get the whole package from them with your choice of clutch disk(kit comes with Pressure plate, clutch,TO bearing and ring gear).

Cheers, James

[Rick Lee]

Don't even think of doing a top end before you need to. Just take your cash and burn it in the fireplace instead. You'll save cash if you DIY the clutch job and you'll appreciate your car a lot more that way too.

[alf]

Its in the shop (Monty at Redmond European) for a new clutch, slipping like soap last night and i do not have the time or room to DIY it. Took a look at it this afternoon when it was all apart. It is the original clutch with 95k miles on it and its down to the rivets. That is one durable clutch to have lasted that long.

Here is the breakdown on cost:
Sachs G50 kit $800
Guide Tube $50
V/C kit $22
Oil Seal $22
Clutch Cover Bolts $9
Mainshaft Seal $11
Fork $87
Pilot Bearing $9
New Flywheel $320 (original one was pretty shot)
7 hrs Labor $525
Total $1855

What is the cost for the Kennedy 930 clutch kit?

Throw in a valve adjustment and plug replacement to round the bill up to $2000.

alf

[fuelie600]

Alf,

I'm doing an engine drop on my 87 this weekend to replace the throw-out bearing. Here's what I'm doing while I'm in there:

Clutch
G50 update
flywheel seal
pilot bearing
oil pressure switch, oil cooler seals, thermostat O-ring, breather gasket (leak prevention)
oil "S" hose
oil temp sending gasket
new engine sound mat - old one is shot
valve adjustment
new flexible fuel lines (OUCH $) problem was on 87-88
new plugs, wires, cap & rotor, filters, belts, O2 sensor
bell crank bushings

The prices you quoted look reasonable. The fuel lines really drove my parts prices up. It sounds like they are nearly impossible to do with the engine in place. I added the gaskets and seals for a little prevention. Hopefully I won't need to drop the engine for a few more years/miles. I've got 64K on the clock.

Let us know how it goes.

Good luck

[alf]

Thanks Evan, i swung by the shop this am to drop off a fuel filter i bought last year, did a visual of the fuel lines everything looked fine.

James, i thought long and hard on the lightweight Kennedy PP and the turbo clutch but decided to go all stock. The original set up lasted 90k + miles, did not want to muck with it since it is a 80% daily driver.

[Jim Smolka]

Alf,

As mentioned earlier, be sure to do the oil leak prevention (oil pressure switch and T-Stat Oring). Also, update the shift fork assembly. No drilling of the case is required. I have written a tech article about replacing the G-50 Clutch (copies available)

IMHO, the OEM type rubber centered disk is prone to failure. The spring disk is better especially if the car is going to see some track time.

Another item to review is the slave cyl on the tranny.

[Crachian]

With the innards removed, there is no better time to detail the engine compartment and engine. If you don't have time to do it yourself, send over a professional detailer to do it. You won't regret it.

[caliber60]

It is the original clutch with 95k miles on it and its down to the rivets. That is one durable clutch to have lasted that long.

A clutch without abuse can last 200K miles. 95K is really nothing.

[Randy Webb]

"detail the engine compartment and engine"

Don't just look at the sound pad, press on it and see if it is still springy -- if not replace. Check out the engine tin sealing rubber also.