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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Honolulu, HI USA
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Rekeying the Hood Release (photos)

Because the rekeying of my glovebox last week went so swimmingly ( Rekeying the Glove Box (photos) ) I decided to press my luck and make a go at rekeying the hood release handle so that MAYBE --for the first time in I don't know how long-- all of the locks on the car might be opened with a single key. (WHAT a concept!)

There are many helpful posts on this BBS complete with step-by-step instructions for removing the hood release handle. (Thanks guys!) The only difference between this post and those is the visual aid. (well.....that and my loquacious tendencies)

The one thing that I heard LOUD & CLEAR in all of the previous posts was "don't close the hood while the release cable disengaged, or else!" so I placed the hood release latch in the closed position before doing anything else.


^Here are the two setscrews that secure the release cable at the latch. You can back these out without fear of anything recoiling or zippin' away.



^With the screws and associated hardware removed, the cable is free to slip out and away as needed.



^In order to pull the handle (and cable) out of their tubular home, you need to remove this screw. It's not easy to get at (as with most little parts on this car) and I found that using one of those "thumb screwdrivers" worked best in the tight space.



^With the screw removed, the handle can slide out partially or all the way depending upon your needs/plans. I pulled the whole enchilada out because I intended to check the cable's integrity and paint the handle.



^Gaining access to the lock cylinder is as simple as removing the tiny little screw that's only revealed after the handle is pulled from the tube. That set screw is picture here in the middle of the frame along side the chrome tongue of the lock. You've heard it before but I'll say it again; Have your key in the cylinder as you extract it from the handle, otherwise wafers and springs can be ejected.

My handle has seen better days, and the components inside were junked up with grease and grit. I subjected everything to a sonic bath of Simple Green, a hot water rinse, and various polishes and lubricants. I also squeezed in a fast, satin black paint job for the handle.



^Here's a (bad) shot of the 10 wafers from my cylinder. Although you can't see it, each wafer has a numeric ID stamp that identifies one "size" from another. (i.e. High point on the key = Wafer #1, Low point on the key = Wafer #4) My cylinder used a combination of wafer numbers 1, 3 and 4.



^Here's a close-up of the lock cylinder. I got lucky (again) because repining the cylinder to match my master key was as simple as shuffling around the existing wafers. (I'm not sure what I would have done had that not been the case because the P-car dealer and locksmiths I've called don't carry the wafers.) Once I remapped the wafer sequence successfully, I spent time honing the fit of the lock cylinder in the handle so that the rotation was as smooth as butter. No more sticky, stubborn hassles trying to lock up my Targa top. (life's simple pleasures!)

Warning: The tiny little springs that give tension to the wafers are NOT fixed in the microscopic silos they live in, so they can --and will-- jump out and into the deepest darkest corners of your operating room. Also - Removing the wafers, or re-inserting them, can easily damage the delicate springs if not done carefully, so finesse the wafers in and out if they hang up.

Reassembly is fast and simple. In my case, the 30-minutes I invested in the work (not counting the paint drying time) was SO well worth the effort. In addition to having a lock that's keyed correctly, the cylinder rotation is smooth as silk, and popping the hood release takes less than half the effort once required.
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Carlton
'77 911S Targa w/3.0
Old 02-16-2004, 02:30 AM
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Thumbs up Another Great Explanantion!

Thank you, Carlton, for the clear explanation. I had the same problem as you. When I got my car, the only key that worked was the ignition!

This is next on my list!

Frank
Old 02-16-2004, 06:17 AM
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This was a really simple job with this guide! Deserves a bump!
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Magnus
911 Silver Targa -77, 3.2 -84 with custom ITBs and EFI
911T Coupe -69, 3.6, G50, "RSR", track day.
Old 08-03-2007, 11:32 AM
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Was this an option on 77s? I don't have a lock on mine.
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Paul
Yellow 77 Sunroof Coupe/cork interior; 3.2L '80 SC engine/10.5:1/No O2; Carrera Tensioners; 11 Blade Fan; Turbo tie rod ends; Bilstein HDs; 28 tube Cooler; SSI, Dansk; MSD/Blaster; 16x7" Fuchs/205/50 Goodrich G Force Sport Comp 2; PCA/UCR, MID9
Never leave well enough alone
Old 08-03-2007, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paulporsche View Post
Was this an option on 77s? I don't have a lock on mine.
Never thought about that.
I might be because its a targa? The original poster (Seven-Seven) has a targa too.
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Magnus
911 Silver Targa -77, 3.2 -84 with custom ITBs and EFI
911T Coupe -69, 3.6, G50, "RSR", track day.
Old 08-03-2007, 12:08 PM
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