|
|
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
Rekeying the Hood Release (photos)
Because the rekeying of my glovebox last week went so swimmingly ( Rekeying the Glove Box (photos) ) I decided to press my luck and make a go at rekeying the hood release handle so that MAYBE --for the first time in I don't know how long-- all of the locks on the car might be opened with a single key. (WHAT a concept!)
There are many helpful posts on this BBS complete with step-by-step instructions for removing the hood release handle. (Thanks guys!) The only difference between this post and those is the visual aid. (well.....that and my loquacious tendencies) The one thing that I heard LOUD & CLEAR in all of the previous posts was "don't close the hood while the release cable disengaged, or else!" so I placed the hood release latch in the closed position before doing anything else. ![]() ^Here are the two setscrews that secure the release cable at the latch. You can back these out without fear of anything recoiling or zippin' away. ^With the screws and associated hardware removed, the cable is free to slip out and away as needed. ^In order to pull the handle (and cable) out of their tubular home, you need to remove this screw. It's not easy to get at (as with most little parts on this car) and I found that using one of those "thumb screwdrivers" worked best in the tight space. ^With the screw removed, the handle can slide out partially or all the way depending upon your needs/plans. I pulled the whole enchilada out because I intended to check the cable's integrity and paint the handle. ^Gaining access to the lock cylinder is as simple as removing the tiny little screw that's only revealed after the handle is pulled from the tube. That set screw is picture here in the middle of the frame along side the chrome tongue of the lock. You've heard it before but I'll say it again; Have your key in the cylinder as you extract it from the handle, otherwise wafers and springs can be ejected. My handle has seen better days, and the components inside were junked up with grease and grit. I subjected everything to a sonic bath of Simple Green, a hot water rinse, and various polishes and lubricants. I also squeezed in a fast, satin black paint job for the handle. ^Here's a (bad) shot of the 10 wafers from my cylinder. Although you can't see it, each wafer has a numeric ID stamp that identifies one "size" from another. (i.e. High point on the key = Wafer #1, Low point on the key = Wafer #4) My cylinder used a combination of wafer numbers 1, 3 and 4. ^Here's a close-up of the lock cylinder. I got lucky (again) because repining the cylinder to match my master key was as simple as shuffling around the existing wafers. (I'm not sure what I would have done had that not been the case because the P-car dealer and locksmiths I've called don't carry the wafers.) Once I remapped the wafer sequence successfully, I spent time honing the fit of the lock cylinder in the handle so that the rotation was as smooth as butter. No more sticky, stubborn hassles trying to lock up my Targa top. (life's simple pleasures!) Warning: The tiny little springs that give tension to the wafers are NOT fixed in the microscopic silos they live in, so they can --and will-- jump out and into the deepest darkest corners of your operating room. Also - Removing the wafers, or re-inserting them, can easily damage the delicate springs if not done carefully, so finesse the wafers in and out if they hang up. Reassembly is fast and simple. In my case, the 30-minutes I invested in the work (not counting the paint drying time) was SO well worth the effort. In addition to having a lock that's keyed correctly, the cylinder rotation is smooth as silk, and popping the hood release takes less than half the effort once required. |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: The Big Easy, Pelican State
Posts: 208
|
Thank you, Carlton, for the clear explanation. I had the same problem as you. When I got my car, the only key that worked was the ignition!
This is next on my list! Frank |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
This was a really simple job with this guide! Deserves a bump!
__________________
Magnus 911 Silver Targa -77, 3.2 -84 with custom ITBs and EFI. 911T Coupe -69, 3.6, G50, "RSR", track day. 924 -79 Rat Rod EFI/Turbo 375whp@1.85bar. 931 -79 under total restoration. |
||
|
|
|
|
Designer King
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Toronto, ON Canada
Posts: 5,499
|
Was this an option on 77s? I don't have a lock on mine.
__________________
Paul Yellow 77 Sunroof Coupe/cork interior; 3.2L SS '80 engine/10.3:1/No O2; Carrera Tensioners; 11 Blade Fan; Turbo tie rods; Bilstein B6; 28 tube Cooler; SSI, Dansk; MSD/Blaster; 16x7" Fuchs/205/50 Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s; PCA/UCR, MID9 Never leave well enough alone |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
Never thought about that.
I might be because its a targa? The original poster (Seven-Seven) has a targa too.
__________________
Magnus 911 Silver Targa -77, 3.2 -84 with custom ITBs and EFI. 911T Coupe -69, 3.6, G50, "RSR", track day. 924 -79 Rat Rod EFI/Turbo 375whp@1.85bar. 931 -79 under total restoration. |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 251
|
I don't have a key for mine. Can the lock cylinder still be removed?
|
||
|
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
Pretty sure there is a small set screw that holds the lock cylinder in the "T" handle
|
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
The lock for the Frunk is only on the Targa. We need some way to secure our valuables.
|
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 251
|
I have everything apart and the tiny grub screw removed but the lock cylinder won't come out. I'm asking if you need a proper key inserted for the cylinder to come out. Door handles you don't need a key. Maybe mine is just jammed
Last edited by rs-vic; 04-10-2020 at 08:46 PM.. |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
|||
|
|
|
|
Rescuer of old cars
|
Was available as an option on coupes. My '84 coupe had one.
__________________
2018 718 Cayman 2.0 Priors - '72 911T coupe, '84 911 Carrera coupe, '84 944, '73 914 2.0 |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 251
|
I got it out. You do not need a key to remove the lock cylinder. Mine was just gunked up. I soaked it with penetrating oil overnight and a good tug on it this morning got it out
|
||
|
|
|
|
|
cycling has-been
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Jersey Shore
Posts: 7,251
|
FWIW, only one of the original keys was supposed to lock/unlock the trunk release.
The valet key is just supposed to work on the door and ignition; not the trunk or glove box. The 'master' key was black, the 'valet' key was the red one. Bill K
__________________
73 911T MFI, 76 912E, 77 Turbo Carrera |
||
|
|
|
|
Burnin' Rubber
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,080
|
|||
|
|
|
|
cycling has-been
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Jersey Shore
Posts: 7,251
|
Quote:
Bill K
__________________
73 911T MFI, 76 912E, 77 Turbo Carrera |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 412
|
Thanks for sharing.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
||
|
|
|
|
Get off my lawn!
|
My 85 3.2 has the lock for the trunk.
I recently had to replace my key as the one I had carried for the last 28 years was worn so much it would not work on the glove compartment or the trunk and it was difficult to use on the passenger door. I dug out my original key, and it worked fine on all the locks. So I had a new one cut from my old master original key. From what I learned, it was an option on coupes through the SC, and maybe standard on 3.2 Carreras.
__________________
Glen 49 Year member of the Porsche Club of America 1985 911 Carrera; 2017 Macan 1986 El Camino with Fuel Injected 350 Crate Engine My Motto: I will never be too old to have a happy childhood! |
||
|
|
|