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Pragmatic Dreamer
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Illinois
Posts: 718
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Engine Cosmetics
The engine has been pulled on my 73E. The body is being ground down for a bare metal repaint. Now the question is, since I am detailing the engine, and repainting the engine compartment, what should I do to the engine to make it look spiffy, but close to original? We have already discussed having the fan media blasted and clear powder coated. My wrench found a like-new shroud. Here are pictures of the engine in its current state. Suggestions anyone?
![]() ![]() Excuse my ignorance, but the "covers" with the word "PORSCHE" on them is exhaust manifold? Thanks for your help for the newbie still working on his first Pcar. larry
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2004 - 911 - 996 Targa - Dark Teal Metallic, with Natural Brown Leather interior. 1973 - Viper Green 911E Targa - Kermit - gone but not forgotten Kermit's Short Story and Pix 911E Website Early 911S Registry Member #537 |
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: WASHINGTON STATE
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Strip and powder coat ALL sheet metal.
It will make a big difference. The cover you refer to is the upper intake valve cover. It too can be stripped and powder coated. I then take a fike and high light the PORSCHE lettering.
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78 911SC sunroof Coupe (SOLD) 97 328i Convertible |
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One more thing.
Clean it, clean it and clean it again. ![]()
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78 911SC sunroof Coupe (SOLD) 97 328i Convertible |
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Re: Engine Cosmetics
Quote:
But I know once you get into it you will ![]() Get all your leaks sorted out so your pretty motor doesn't get all covered with oil when your done. Your a braver man than I am but I am getting braver by necessity...
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1979 911 SC Targa http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Mike_Kast |
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Planet Eugene
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Powder coat the crossbar silver. YOu can use a fine abrasive polish in places to make them shine. Wax the engine compartment after cleaning or repainting & maybe repl. the sound pad.
Do not powder coat stuff that gets really hot (vlave covers) but you can get them done in a thermal dispersant coating at many powder coating shops (e.g. Finishline). Then sand off the coating on the letters on the valve cover. You can have sliver, red & black valve covers and change them with every adjustment. |
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Arapahoe County, Colorado, USA
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Larry,
When you open the deck lid, make it look just like it just came out of the Factory – perfect original (except for the tensioners of course.) Do the same with all the hardware. No fancy colors or finishes, just stock original. Go find some absolutely original engines and use that information to correct any prior mistakes on your engine. The heat exchangers and stock muffler will do well with a little Scotch Brite and light gray VHT 1500. As they heat cure they will go to looking very original. You will have everyone; knowledgeable Porsche people and neophytes alike looking with admiration. Cool, its Viper Green. What color interior? I’ll second porsha: CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN. Check this thread. Engine & Tranny cleaning Keep the photos coming. Best, Grady
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Back in the saddle again
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Central TX west of Houston
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Oh, BTW, I don't think the valve covers ever came black, they have been painted by a previous owner.
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Pragmatic Dreamer
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Illinois
Posts: 718
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Grady:
My wrench has done a good job of cleaning things up. I originally asked him to detail the engine, and he decided to pull the engine and totally repaint the engine compartment. It is going a bit farther than we had planned originally, but I'm not complaining. Now is the time to do it. I am not dropping the engine to do it in the next year or so, no matter how easy everyone says it is. The car is Viper Green with a black vinyl interior. I bought a set of sport seats, and am having them redone at Autos Int'l. I have a mill that is going to reweave some "original" black and white houndstooth fabric for the inserts. Should be smashing. My wrench is replacing all of the carpeting with new. Then I am getting some black cocoa fiber floor mats for the front. Only another 60 - 90 days. What should I have him do with those valve covers? Were they black originally? larry
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2004 - 911 - 996 Targa - Dark Teal Metallic, with Natural Brown Leather interior. 1973 - Viper Green 911E Targa - Kermit - gone but not forgotten Kermit's Short Story and Pix 911E Website Early 911S Registry Member #537 |
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Here's one of my favorite threads on some compulsive guys on this board and their obsession with engine detailing. Great pictures.
I'm sure you'll get some great ideas for your engine. lets see your engine detail pictures! need ideas |
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Larry,
This is a good thread that steve79sc listed. lets see your engine detail pictures! need ideas There are great custom engine finishes on this thread. That represents lots of work, money and TLC. Good job all. On JackO’s post I see a Conda Green ‘72S with an original appearing engine (about 1/3 thru page 2.) That is what I’m talking about. It is difficult to ever go back and recreate this, so my recommendation is if you have it, keep it. It is relatively easier to custom finish your engine as in these images. There is an original houndstooth that is green/black/white that is original for your car that I have seen when new. I had a girlfriend who had an original Viper Green ‘72S SR coupe with complete factory tan leather and green/tan/white wool seat inserts. I first saw that car when it was new in ’72. The dash, door panels, rear package tray, quarter panels, and more were all stitched leather. My original ’68 911 (Burgundy/black) has burgundy/black/white houndstooth inserts in vinyl seats. I may be wrong but I think this material is currently available, you shouldn’t have to have it custom made. See what you can find. I can give you some original samples. Well, from your description I wasn’t expecting shag carpet. Good for you. Yes, you are correct. The ’72 thru ’76 911s had black plastic coated magnesium valve covers. The coating didn’t work well as it pealed at the nuts and at the edges if the covers were resurfaced (all were). It was gloss black, slightly shiner than the sheet metal. The covers from ’68 thru ’71 were uncoated but with the same high pressure magnesium, just like the crankcase. The early covers (’65-’67) were bare cast aluminum. The later (’77 ->) were the bare aluminum but better castings. These were called “investment castings” because of the huge cost of the dies. Looking at your images, the large washers for the engine mount had similar black coating that pealed off too soon. That is why they look like they never have been painted. There is a real art to refinishing to exactly like original. I am a proponent of “wolf in sheep’s clothing” for early 911s and the engine finish is a major part of the “clothing.” Best, Grady gradyclay@hotmail.com
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I had my valve covers bead blasted and cleared. It's a nice look to what they would have looked like when new. They also filed the letters to make them look a bit brighter. I had all of the engine tin powder coated black and the fan and fan housing bead blasted and cleared too. I like the look in that it looks similar to when it was new (1970 911T).
-Dan |
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Hey Dan, Any pictures?
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Pragmatic Dreamer
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Illinois
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Quote:
I had heard that there were other colors available besides the black/white houndstooth. I had heard about the black/tan/white. Hadn't heard about the black/green/white. That would be a scary color match to the Viper Green of the car!! But it would really look rare!! Would really like to get a sample of it, if you have one. Sending you an email. So, to be more original, I could have the valve covers blasted, and powdercoated black, filing the name off so that it is bare metal. Then have the fan blasted and powder coated clear. The rest of the engine, leave bare metal. Do you think that blasting and coating clear leaves a surface finish that is too shiny to be original? larry
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2004 - 911 - 996 Targa - Dark Teal Metallic, with Natural Brown Leather interior. 1973 - Viper Green 911E Targa - Kermit - gone but not forgotten Kermit's Short Story and Pix 911E Website Early 911S Registry Member #537 |
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Pragmatic Dreamer
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Location: Illinois
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Quote:
larry
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2004 - 911 - 996 Targa - Dark Teal Metallic, with Natural Brown Leather interior. 1973 - Viper Green 911E Targa - Kermit - gone but not forgotten Kermit's Short Story and Pix 911E Website Early 911S Registry Member #537 |
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Larry.
It fits all around the engine and is designed to seperate the upper part of the motor from the lower part. The upper part contains the input side (cool) and the lower contains the output side (hot). Stick your head in there and you will see it.
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Hey Larry,
The engine tin is the collection of sheet metal like pieces some of which are to the right and left at the bottom of the engine and close in the engine compartment. There are a lot of various pieces too which are difficult to see including some in between the cylinders. There are some good pictures in this thread It isn't powder coated but ... I will post pictures of my engine pieces later tonight. Hope this helps! -Dan |
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Here are some pics. Parts bead blasted and clear coated. Air cleaner was powder coated and cleared.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() And while you have the engine out, you might as well take care of the engine compartment. Actually very easy to clean up and paint. ![]() -Dan 1970 911T |
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Hickory NC USA
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Since the motor is out,
1. Valve adjust and the remove, clean services and then replace all the valve cover studs. Of course media blast valve covers 2. Relace all other studs on intake 3. Replace oil pressure switch 4. Remove breather cover, media blast, replace gasket 5. Remove chain tensioner covers. Replace studs and media blast covers. 6. Replace carrera tensioner lines 7. Replace Carrera tensioner fitting on cam tower. Use the upgraded type with the smaller inside diameter to help oil pressure at idle. 8. Remove and cleaner oil cooler. Replace seals. 9. Replace engine seal rubber 10. Replace old hardware with Wurth cadnium plated (gold) hardware. 11. Of course powder coat all sheetmetal and fan assembly 12. Replace or replate engine mount washers. 13. Replace engine mounts. 14. Replace o-ring on engine oil T-stat (next to breather) 15. Replace all clamps with new Wurth clamps 16. Replace rear main seal 17. Replace oil return tubes 18. Have we spent enough money yet ? ![]()
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Quote:
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And... a CF electrical panel cover to finish it off -- get some new screws for the cover too.
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